What is the New Canine Respiratory Illness going around?

Veterinarians are currently reporting that they are seeing double the number of cases than what is typically seen during a canine infectious respiratory disease outbreak. The cases are presenting with prolonged coughing which can last weeks to months with minimal response to treatment. In some cases, the dogs have progressed to contracting pneumonia and require hospitalization.

Some diagnostics have been completed, but there has not been any conclusive testing to indicate what may be causing the increased prevalence of this respiratory disease. This does not necessarily mean this is a new or novel virus as there are many causes for canine respiratory infections.

What is the new canine respiratory illness?

Outbreaks of canine infectious respiratory disease are not uncommon and happen from time-to-time in the dog population. There are a number of different pathogens that can cause respiratory disease in dogs that are primarily transmitted through the air by respiratory droplets when dogs breathe and especially when they cough.

Symptoms of Canine Respiratory Illness

Symptoms can include:

• coughing

• difficulty breathing

• sneezing

• nasal and/or eye discharge

• lethargy

Protecting Your Pet

Here are a few things you can do to protect your pet:

• Ensure dogs are up-to-date on vaccinations, including canine influenza, bordetella and parainfluenza.

• Reduce your pet’s exposure by limiting commingling with other dogs outside the home (including dog parks, boarding, grooming, and play groups).

• Consult with your veterinarian if your dog becomes ill. Early diagnostics may help in getting an accurate diagnosis and treatment. If your dog becomes ill or presents symptoms, keep them at home to avoid exposure to other dogs.  

If you suspect your dog is ill, please book an appointment with your veterinarian.

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Reading Dog Body Language

We all know that dogs can’t talk to us, so they use their own vocalizations, body gestures and postures to express themselves. They rely on these types of communication to let people and other dogs know their emotions, especially if they feel stressed, frightened or threatened. They hope that the gestures will work to calm the situation and keep them out of trouble.

We can’t always read a dog’s body language accurately. Dogs, just like people, have their own, unique personalities, and they don’t all express themselves in the same way. One dog wagging its tail might mean that the animal is happy to see you or wants to play. The same gesture in another dog might mean that it’s anxious or nervous.

Sometimes, dogs will yawn, put their ears back or raise a paw if they are feeling worried. As the dog gets more concerned about the situation it’s in, its behavior will change. For example, if a dog tucks its tail under its belly or leg, lies down with a leg up or stiffens its body and stares at you, it could be trying to tell you that it’s frightened or threatened. When the dog reacts by growling, snapping or biting, it’s telling you that it wants to be left alone – Right now!

Remember, we can’t predict whether a dog will bite or not based on its size and breed. Always focus on the behavior of the animal.

Ask yourself a question next time you’re around a dog and want to play with it: Does the dog seem like it wants to be with you? If the dog is relaxed and friendly, and seems happy to see you, it’s probably in a good, playful mood and will welcome your attention. If the dog won’t look at you or is avoiding you by walking or turning away, it’s probably best to let it go on its way and leave it alone. If it seems tense and nervous, or seems to be staring at you, you’ll want to stay away.

If it’s not your dog, always rely on its owner to help you understand the pet’s mood. Always, always ask the owner’s permission before you attempt to pet a dog you don’t know.

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Teaching Children to Prevent Dog Bites

Teaching children to prevent dog bites

When you're teaching children about dog bite prevention and how to be safe around dogs, keep it simple. Discuss animals, how we relate to them, and the role of animals in your family, not just how to avoid being bitten. If you have younger children, always supervise them around dogs and be mindful of how the child interacts with the dog so they learn to be gentle from the beginning.

Avoiding Incidents With Strange Dogs

• Stay away from dogs you don't know. If you or your child sees an unknown dog wandering around loose and unsupervised, avoid the dog and consider leaving the area. Consider alerting animal control.

• Don’t ever pet a dog without asking first. Both adults and children should always ask the owner for permission to pet their dog, even if it’s a dog you know, or that has seemed friendly toward you before.

• Quietly walk away. When confronted by an aggressive dog, slow movements are best.

• Be a tree. Stand still if a dog comes after you, then take a defensive position. Stand quietly, with hands low and clasped in front. Remain still and keep your head down as if looking at your feet. If knocked down, cover your head and neck with your arms and curl into a ball.

• Avoid escalating the situation by yelling, running, hitting or making sudden movements toward the dog.

Avoiding Incidents at Home

• Never tease dogs by taking their toys, food, or treats, or by pretending to hit or kick.

• Never pull a dog’s ears or tail, and don't drag, climb on, or try to ride dogs

• Don't try to play dress up with the dog. Some dogs won't like it.

• Leave dogs alone when they're eating or sleeping.

• If a dog goes to bed or to their crate, don’t bother them. The bed or crate is the dog’s space to be left alone. A dog needs a comfortable, safe place where the child never goes. If you’re using a crate, it should be covered with a blanket and be near a family area, such as in your living room or another area of your home where the family frequently spends time. Note: don't isolate your dog or their crate, or you may accidentally encourage bad behavior.

Tips for Parents

It's important to educate children at a level they can understand. Don’t expect young children to be able to accurately read a dogs’ body language. Instead, focus on gentle behavior and that dogs have likes and dislikes and help them develop understanding of dog behavior as they grow older.

• As a parent, report stray dogs or dogs that frequently get loose in your neighborhood.

• Keep dogs away from infants and young children unless there is direct and constant supervision.

• Teach children that the dog has to want to play with them and when the dog leaves, he leaves -- he’ll return for more play if he feels like it. This is a simple way to allow kids to be able to tell when a dog wants to play and when he doesn’t.

• Don’t give kids too much responsibility for pets too early - they just may not be ready. Always supervise and check on pet care responsibilities given to children to ensure they are carried out

• Remember: if you get your kids a pet, you’re getting yourself a pet, too.

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Puppy Dental Care: Teeth, Teething and Tooth Care

Just like human babies, ​puppies have baby teeth that fall out. Most puppies are born without teeth and go through a process known as puppy teething. From birth to six months, sharp puppy teeth erupt from the gums in the jaw in a predictable timeline. Puppies go through teething stages during the development of their teeth, including sore gums, and eventually—the eruption of 28 baby teeth. During teething, puppies may target all kinds of unexpected objects to gnaw and chew on, like baseboards and shoes, to relieve the discomfort. However, most dogs never outgrow the urge to chew. Pet owners are encouraged to learn about how their puppy's teeth grow in so they can best handle their dog as it ages.

Stages of Puppy Teeth and Teething

Birth to 2 Weeks

When your puppy is born, there are no teeth yet. During the first two weeks, you'll notice your puppy nursing and first opening its eyes.

Weeks 2 to 4

In the front of the mouth, narrow-edged teeth known as incisors will begin to emerge. The incisors are the first to appear at about two to three weeks of age. Puppies have six incisors on both the top and bottom jaw.

Premolars and molars also begin to grow behind canines (the pointed teeth between the incisors and premolars) at three to six weeks of age, with three on the top and bottom of each side. Four needle-like canines appear at age four weeks and frame the incisors, one on each side, top, and bottom.

Weeks 5 to 8

The last molars appear by six to eight weeks of age. At about eight weeks, the puppy’s permanent teeth begin pushing out deciduous or "milk teeth." The roots of the baby teeth are absorbed by the body, and in most cases, milk teeth simply fall out.

When the deciduous teeth don't fall out on time, puppies may appear to have a double set of teeth. Retained baby teeth should be extracted by a veterinarian so that permanent teeth have room to grow. Sometimes, a crowded mouth pushes teeth out of alignment, resulting in difficulty eating or poor dental hygiene (which can lead to periodontal disease).

All of your puppy's 28 baby teeth are expected to come in by this time. This is when puppies start to learn how to eat moist and soft puppy food.

Weeks 12 to 16

Breeders often let their puppies go to their new owners' homes around eight weeks. Baby teeth will begin to shed, and permanent adult teeth will start to come in. This process is painful for dogs, so providing puppy safe chew toys is recommended. This is a good time to socialize your dog more, look and touch the inside and outside of its mouth, and prepare for teeth brushing.

6 Months and Older

At this point, all puppy teeth should be gone, and adult teeth emerge. If there are any baby teeth left, let your vet know so it can be removed. Permanent teeth replace the milk teeth tooth-for-tooth and add four premolars and 10 molars. Most pups will have 42 permanent teeth in place by about seven months of age.

Signs to Keep an Eye on During Teething

While it can vary somewhat between breeds, there is a progression you can expect as your puppy develops new teeth. It's important to begin handling your puppy's mouth while it's young so you can periodically check for any potential tooth problems. Any type of facial swelling, changes in eating habits, unexpected night awakenings, or rubbing of the face are signs of possible oral discomfort.

You'll want to take your pup to the veterinarian if you see:

• Two teeth occupying one spot in your puppy's mouth. This can cause the adult tooth to come in crooked, possibly causing later problems.

• Spots of blood on your dog's toys, brown tartar on the teeth, or gums that are bleeding, inflamed, and/or sore. These are common symptoms of periodontal disease, a large oral issue for dogs.

• Broken or cracked teeth. This can cause the nerve of the tooth to expose itself, causing your dog pain or infection.

• Crooked teeth or malocclusion (misalignment of the upper and lower jaw). While some breeds have a trademark bite, unusual ones could cause chewing issues.

• Loose adult teeth. Most often, this is caused by trauma to the mouth or from gum loss due to advanced periodontal disease. It could also be a sign of illness.

How to Keep Teeth Healthy

Schedule a visit with your veterinarian for an initial dental exam for your puppy. This examination will include a look at the teeth, gums, and oral cavity. Ask your vet to demonstrate how to clean your pup's teeth. This way, you'll know what brushes, toothpaste, and techniques to use.

Get your pup used to the idea of tooth brushing around six months when its adult teeth start to come in. Regular brushing will prevent plaque, stinky breath, disease, and other medical problems. It's ideal to brush your puppy's teeth daily, but once or twice a week will work.

The Purpose of Each Dog Tooth

Different kinds of teeth serve various functions, based on the position of the mouth and the shape of the tooth. With some breeds, the shape of the jaw impacts how each type of tooth functions. Most dogs have V-shaped upper and lower jaws which allow the mouth to be opened very wide for grasping and capturing prey—or grabbing and holding toys during play. There are several ways dogs use their teeth:

• Dogs use their incisors to rip and scrape meat from bones. They also use them as a grooming tool to nibble burrs or dirt from their fur.

• Dogs use their two canine teeth, found on each side of the jaw (on the top and bottom), as pointed daggers to inflict stabbing and slashing wounds.

• Dogs have eight premolars in the upper jaw and another eight in the lower jaw. They also have four molars in the top and six in the bottom. The extra molars are designed to crush and are used to process vegetable foods and bones.

• Dogs have specialized carnassial teeth composed of premolars and molars. As they pass each other during the mouth's closure, these teeth act like scissors. The carnassial teeth are innovations of the carnivorous animal that requires shearing action to process flesh.

What a Proper Bite Looks Like

When the mouth is closed, dogs should have a normal "bite." This is very important so that dogs can eat and use their mouth normally.

A normal bite looks like this:

• The lower canine teeth are situated in front of the upper canines.

• The upper incisors overlap the lower incisors.

• The upper premolar points fit into the spaces between lower premolars.

• The upper carnassial teeth overlap the lower ones.
  

Malocclusion refers to the abnormal "bite" or fitting of these teeth. Malocclusion can be normal for certain dog breeds due to differences in the shape of the jaw and mouth. For instance, the flat-faced (brachycephalic) dog breeds like Bulldogs have a normal malocclusion because their lower jaw is longer than the upper. However, this allows the teeth to fit incorrectly, which can cause mouth damage as the dog chews. Thus, a veterinarian or veterinary dentist with orthodontic correction should be aware of malocclusion.

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How to Teach a Rescue Dog to Love Again

Imagine you’re a dog that has been surrendered, and upon waking up, only to find that everything in your world is different. Around you, others are screaming and crying. Now imagine you’re a stray, found on the streets never knowing where your next meal may be or maybe you spent most of your days chained up and unloved. On good days, a stranger comes to visit and take you for a walk. The rest of the time, there is nothing to do but sleep and wait. Then, it all changes again. A new family. A new home. All new smells. It’s no wonder that bonding with rescue dogs is a slow, tedious process that requires patience.

The First Steps to Bonding With a Rescue Dog

Dogs are trusting by nature but that trust has limits. The more a dog is subject to abandonment, the more anxiety-ridden they’re likely to be. While we may not always know the specific circumstances that led a dog to feel unsafe in the world, rebuilding trust is possible.

Give your new dog space

One of the larger mistakes people make with fearful dogs is paying them too much attention too quickly. For most dogs with severe anxiety or trust issues, you are part of the landscape of scary stuff they’ve been thrust into.

The absolute best thing you can do for an emotionally fragile dog is to give them space. Bonding with a rescue dog is all about going slow. Don’t force your dog to sit with you on the couch or sleep with you in the bed. Do offer them a comfortable alternative (like a dog bed) that is theirs alone, somewhere within eyesight but just out of reach.

Let your dog guide your interactions

Instead of approaching your dog to give them attention, let your dog come to you when they’re feeling comfortable.

A few other tips for bonding with a rescue dog at a pace they can handle:

• Stay away from petting sensitive areas like their head, ears, tail, and paws.

• Choose to pet areas like your dog’s side or back.

• Never hover, bend over your dog or attempt to hug them close to your body. These actions can make a frightened dog feel trapped and lead to increased anxiety and even a bite.

• Never allow someone unfamiliar to approach and pet your dog unless your dog is soliciting attention from them.

Try classical conditioning

If your pet is skittish when you move around, classical conditioning and desensitization techniques can help your pet feel more secure about being in your presence. Your objective is to merely deliver an amazing, delicious treat.

Here’s how to do it:

1. With a chunk of high-value food (chicken, cheese, hot dogs, etc.) or a yummy chew like a pig’s ear or bully stick, walk towards your dog.

2. Drop the object close by, then continue walking away.

3. You can speak to your dog in pleasing, soothing tones, but don’t stop to pet them.

4. Repeat this daily (or multiple times a day) until you see your dog start to perk up a bit when you approach.

5. Next time you drop the food, instead of walking away, hang out nearby.

6. You can talk to your dog in soothing tones but don’t interfere with your dog’s eating. (NEVER take away a food object from a fearful dog.)

7. Repeat until your dog is able to comfortably eat their treat with you nearby.

Over time, and with repetition, your dog learns that being near you is a positive experience, and they’ll start to relax. A calm dog is more open to bonding with you.

Avoid hand-delivered treats in the beginning

Sure, bonding with a rescue dog involves treats—but it’s unwise to make a fearful dog take food from your hand. Some dogs may be willing to get closer than they’re comfortable with in order to get high-value food, but by pushing them beyond their stress threshold, they’re unlikely to make long-term improvements.

Here’s how to work your way toward hand-fed treats:

• Instead of giving your dog a treat from your hand, toss it a few feet away from you.

• Repeat regularly until your dog is comfortable within a few feet of you and is happy to hang out there.

• Decrease the distance you throw the treat.

• Watch your dog’s body language to see if they’re able to take the treat from the new location while remaining relaxed. If so, repeat until they’re regularly approaching without signs of anxiety.

• Continue to shorten the distance slowly until, eventually, you offer the treat from your hand.

• If your dog darts in to grab the treat then darts away, you will know you are pushing them too fast.

Limit scary experiences on walks

To help a dog feel safe and confident in the world, they shouldn’t be placed in frightening situations. Remember that scary is relative. You may not think a rumbling truck or a busy street is scary, but your dog might.

To give your dog the best chance of building confidence outdoors, begin by walking them in the quietest place you can think of, preferably away from roads. Gradually over time (weeks or months, not days) shift your walks to busier and noisier locations. For example, your next location could be a quiet residential street.

Be sure to walk armed with plenty of high-value treats, which you can give your dog immediately after anything loud or unexpected happens. For example, if a skateboarder zooms by, immediately pull out a handful of treats and deliver them to your dog’s mouth one after another until your hand is empty. If your dog is uncomfortable taking treats from your hand, drop the handful on the ground beneath them.

Use games to build confidence

Bonding with a rescue dog that doesn’t trust the world requires confidence building. Games are a great way to start.

If your dog is uncomfortable being approached or eating food from your hand, try some extremely simple shaping exercises. Shaping is like a game of hot-and-cold where your dog is rewarded for moving closer to the goal.

How to play a shaping game

• Decide what you want your dog to do. Stick to easy tasks like walking to the dog bed or touching a toy with their nose or paw.

• Throw your dog a treat each time they look at the destination you’ve chosen for them.

• Next, throw them a treat for shifting or inching closer to it. If your dog moves away, don’t reward.

• Finally, when they accomplish the goal, jackpot them by throwing a handful of treats.

Practice your training exercises in short bursts of a few minutes at a time and make sure your dog is successful. If they’re struggling with a cue, they may not be ready for it. Be patient and always end on a win.

Help them make other dog friends

When you’re dealing with a dog with trust issues, it can be easy to forget that they’re still a dog. Many dogs that don’t trust humans are comfortable with their own kind.

Give your pup the opportunity to socialize with other dogs to help relieve stress and build their confidence in different environments. Busy enclosed dog parks aren’t always the best option for a fearful dog, as they can be noisy, chaotic, and overwhelming.

For best results, create opportunities where they can interact with one or two pets at a time, or where they have enough space to encounter other dogs without feeling pressured to interact, like a dog-friendly recreation area.

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