What is National Pet Dental Health Month about?

Celebrated every February, National Pet Dental Health Month was created by the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) to highlight how important oral health is to overall health, happiness and wellbeing of your pet.

If you don’t brush your pet’s teeth every day, you’re not alone. It’s estimated that only 2% of dog owners brush their dog’s teeth on the daily despite recommendations from veterinarians across the US to do so. As a result, supplemental dog dental chews that are proven effective in fighting plaque and controlling tartar become an important part of a dog’s daily routine along with routine dental cleanings.

When Do Dental Problems Start?

According to US Veterinarians, periodontal disease, a gum disease caused by plaque and tartar buildup, is the most common dental condition for dogs, with 80% exhibiting evidence of the disease by age 3.

Related article: Periodontal Disease and Treatment

How to Prevent Dental Health Issues in Dogs

When it comes to dental health care in dogs, offense is the best defense. Brushing your dog’s teeth and providing a daily dog dental chew are great ways to reduce plaque and tartar accumulation.

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Common Ear Problems in Dogs

The discomfort that comes when you have an earache hardly needs explanation, but imagine for a minute that your ear — inflamed and filled with water or wax — can’t be cleaned or improved by your own hand. You can't voice your pain or your need for help, either. All you can do is shake your head back and forth over and over until someone notices, diagnoses the problem and administers what is necessary to nurse you back to health. So is the life of your beloved dog when they come down with an ear problem of some kind, and ear problems are extraordinarily common in dogs.

Learn more about the most common types of ear problems in dogs, and how pet parents can help bring relief to their dogs.

Airborne Allergies

Most canine ear problems stem from an allergy of some type. The two most prevalent are airborne and food allergies.

As with humans, airborne allergies often occur seasonally, which means that a dog with allergies may be more prone to ear infections anytime from April to September, depending on the allergen (like pollen or grass) that’s causing the reaction.

There are many products available to combat these allergies, but the simplest things owners can do are to bathe their dogs regularly (avoid getting soap or water in their ears) and, if possible, remove the allergen from their environment. This also means it may be important to walk your dog on concrete/the sidewalk if they are allergic to grass or keeping your dog indoors as much as possible during allergy season if it is a pollen allergy.

You may also discuss giving your dog antihistamines with your veterinarian (who can prescribe the appropriate medication and dose). Do not try to give your pet an antihistamine without consulting your pet's veterinarian.

Food Allergies

Food allergies will affect dogs as long as the offending ingredient is a part of their diet and can continue to be bothersome for weeks after consumption. The most common types of food allergies include beef, chicken, eggs, and dairy. For treatment, a vet or veterinary nutritionist will likely recommend dietary treatment in conjunction with corticosteroids (steroids to help decrease inflammation and itching) or other pharmaceutical treatments to keep the dog comfortable.

Dietary treatments for food allergies include a novel protein diet (feeding your dog a protein they haven’t eaten before, like kangaroo, deer or some types of fish) or a hydrolyzed diet, which neutralizes allergens by shrinking down the protein source in a specific food so that a dog’s body can no longer recognize them. These diets should be discussed with a veterinarian prior to starting, as most are prescription-based and there are specific protocols pet owners will need to follow in order to rule out a food allergy in their dogs.

Bacterial Infections

Most of the bacterial infections that affect a dog’s skin and their ear canals are strains of staph, but they are not the same type that infects humans, so owners shouldn’t worry about them being contagious. There are antibiotic and non-antibiotic treatments for bacterial infections, with the latter being used in chronic cases to prevent resistance.

Non-antibiotic treatments include shampoos with chlorhexidine as well as common bleach, both of which kill the bacteria on the skin, but it’s recommended you try these remedies in consultation with your vet (and avoid using any shampoos inside of your dog’s ear canal). Once treated properly, the infection should clear up within two to three weeks.

Yeast Infections

Almost all cases of yeast infections in dogs stem from an allergy, as allergies produce an excess of oil on a dog’s skin, including in their ears, creating an environment in which yeast can thrive and multiply. Yeast infections can be treated by a combination of systemic and topical anti-fungal medications. Like their bacterial counterparts, yeast infections will clear up in about two to three weeks once properly treated.

Mites

These microscopic insects can drive small animals crazy. Although they’re not the largest source of ear problems in dogs, they can be particularly troublesome for cats, and dogs who live with cats are much more susceptible to ear mites.

Ear mites can be treated by anti-parasitic medications applied either systemically or to the ear canal directly. Secondary infections of the ear canals with bacteria or yeast are common in patients with ear mites, so these may need to be addressed with topical medications and ear cleansers as well.

Foreign Objects

Fortunately, cases of foreign objects getting lodged in a dog’s ear canal are pretty rare. A very small number of canine ear problems are related to foreign objects, and when they are, the objects are fairly small, including plant debris, a fly or dried ear medication.

If you suspect your dog has an ear problem or has something stuck in their ear, bring your pup to your veterinarian for a thorough otic exam. Your veterinarian will use specific tools, like an otoscope, to look at your dog’s entire ear canal and ear drum and properly diagnose the issue. Never use cotton swabs in your dog’s ear, as these can worsen the problem by breaking inside the ear canal, rupturing your dog’s eardrum or pushing the foreign object (or wax) further into the ear canal and against the eardrum.

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Litter Training a Rabbit

Yes, you can litter-train your bunny. But, spaying or neutering has to come first. It is almost impossible to litter train an unspayed or unneutered rabbit. If you can’t resist letting your bunny have the run of the house immediately, be prepared to have them consider your house as one very large litter box. Once this habit is established, it is very hard to change. It is far better to spend your time in the beginning training and reap the benefits of a well-mannered bunny after the fact.

Buy the right boxes

Bunnies like to have enough room to stretch out in their boxes and, if you have a bonded pair, you have to allow enough room for both of them.

Medium to large-sized cat litter boxes are perfect. The ordinary tray-type ones will do; not the deep or covered varieties. Your bunny will probably appreciate and insist on having more than one litter location, so pick up more than one!

If you have large bunnies, cement mixing tubs are another great litter box alternative available at most large hardware stores. These are very roomy and inexpensive.

Get the right litter

There are several important bunny litter do's and don'ts when it comes to bunnies:

Do choose:

• Yesterday's News, Crown Bedding (or similar) recycled newspaper pellet litter/animal bedding

• Carefresh (or similar) paper pulp litter/animal bedding

• Woodstove pellets (these are used as fuel for woodstoves, but are actually great as bunny litter pellets.)

• Ground corncob pet litter/bedding

Always check the label. Don't buy litter that is cedar, cedar oils, zinc or the clumping clay.

Do NOT choose:

• No clay litter. This can cause serious respiratory problems.

• No Cat Works litter. This can cause zinc poisoning and death.

• No Pine or Cedar litters. These can also kill your rabbit.

Layer with Timothy Hay

You can buy Timothy Hay in bags from most pet stores, and that will do just fine. If you have a little more time, see if you can find a specialty store, feed store, or farm that sells Timothy Hay. This tends to be even yummier to discerning bunnies.

Never use hay that looks dusty or moldy or smells bad. It can kill your bunny.

Fill the litter box properly

If you've had a bunny before, you know that you can do nothing right—especially not the first time. So, it might take some trial and error to find the 'proper way' to fill the litter box (according to your bunny, that is).

Start with around one inch of litter, and cover that with Timothy Hay.

Prepare to do a little clean-up

Nobody's perfect. Your bunny will probably have a few accidents as they are learning to use the box.

Always remember: rabbits do not respond well to physical discipline. They have been designed to be easily frightened and broken; never physically discipline your rabbit. You and/or your rabbit could end up seriously hurt and your rabbit will end up terrified of you rather than your loving companion.

The most effective cleaning solution for bunny pee accidents is white vinegar. It's a good idea to get a spray bottle and fill it with white vinegar or vinegar and water. You can also use Nature's Miracle enzyme cleaner, but this is a bit more expensive.

How to litter train your bunny

1. Choose your location

While you are litter training your bunny, they will have to stay in an enclosed area. So, before you start training, choose and prepare the training area. A bathroom, utility room, or other small room without carpeting is a good place to start the training. You can also use a cage or an x-pen.

If you are training in a room with slippery floors, put a rug or towel down for the bunny to lay on.

Trim your bunny's nails. This will help them feel more comfortable on a slippery floor.

Be prepared to confine your bunny for a while. You can't let them out into any other room until they are always urinating in their box.

2. Prepare the litter box

Use 1" of litter covered with Timothy hay. Add in some of the rabbit's poops and urine-soaked paper or hay. Place the litter box wherever the bunny seems to prefer to use, which is often a corner.

3. Add bunny

When you first let your bunny into the training area, stay in the room. When they leave droppings on the floor, immediately put both bunny and the droppings in the litter box. Tell them what a good bunny they are and pet them. Spend as much time as you can with them and when you have to leave, put them back into their cage or enclosure. A baby gate (not light plastic!) works well to divide a room into a manageable space. Repeat this often until they have the training room mastered. Only then can you let them out into another room.

• Clean up accidents ASAP.

• If the rabbit likes to dig and moves the box around, you can use a large metal clamp to fix it to the side of the hutch. They can be purchased at most hardware stores. You might also drill a small hole in the side of the box and secure it with twist ties.

• Let the litter box stay a little dirty while the rabbit is learning. If you keep it too clean they will think that they are not supposed to use it. You can dispose of organic litter directly in the toilet or into the compost pile. Wonderful fertilizer is an added bonus of sharing your home with a rabbit.

4. Expand the area

After you are sure that your bunny is urinating only in the box, it's time to expand their area. Repeat step three in additional rooms.

Don't be afraid to use multiple litter boxes until your rabbit exhibits the appropriate litter box behaviors. Be sure and clean up behind any "accidents." If you witness your rabbit urinating outside their litter box, pick your rabbit up and place them in their litter box. Don't scold your rabbit, rather praise them once inside the litter box.

You can set a schedule while your rabbit is enjoying out time. Every 10 minutes place your rabbit in their litter box and praise them. Have a treat ready and offer it if they actually use the litter box. As time progresses, you can space out the amount of time between the reminder visits to their litter box. Time, patience, praise and consistent work will help your rabbit reshape their behavior.

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How to Train a Cat

Yes, you can in fact train a cat—as independent as they may be.

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Never Punish

Cats won’t learn from what some owners would consider “discipline.” Worse yet, “punishing” your cat can induce stress. This may lead to behavioral and health problems—not something you want to deal with in cat training or in general. Remember that patience and positive reinforcement are essential if you’re learning how to train a cat.

Get a clicker & treats

Commonly used as training tools for a wide variety of animals, a clicker will set you back just a couple of bucks and help you give positive reinforcement when you’re learning how to train a cat.

Tip: You can also use a regular pen with a clicky button—the important thing is to have a distinct noise you can make instantly.

Most cat training involves offering your cat a treat it likes following a click to mark the desired behavior. These tactics also work when it comes to giving your cat a pill. Without the clicker, your cat may be confused about why it’s being rewarded: If it obeys a command, hears the click, and then gets a treat, it’s more likely to catch on.

How to train a cat to come on command

Cats can learn to respond to a vocal cue and run your way. This step of how to train a cat starts by making a distinct noise before feeding—before you open a bag or can—like vocally call your cat, or click your tongue. Your pet will learn to associate that noise with something positive (food) and will eventually head to you when it hears it. Then, encourage this behavior outside of normal feeding times. Start from short distances. Make the noise, use your clicker when your cat comes, and then reward your pet with the treat. Over time, call the cat from longer distances. The ASPCA recommends up to two “cat training sessions” a day, for five minutes or less, during which you should repeat the behavior up to 20 times.

How to train a cat to use a toilet

Training a cat to use the toilet definitely takes some work, but think of the benefits: You’ll save on litter and enjoy a cleaner home. First, place a litter box adjacent to your toilet. Then gradually bring it closer and closer to the top of the seat—you might need a stool to make the process easier on the cat. Once your pet is accustomed to using a litter box on top of the toilet, transition to a special litter box that fits within the toilet itself. (Buy flushable litter, and expect spillover.) Gradually use less and less litter to get your cat accustomed to doing its business without it, and then, remove the litter box entirely.

How to train a cat to shake hands

This cat training is simpler than you might expect: Get a treat ready, then align yourself to the same level as your cat. Tap your cat’s paw while saying “shake,” and use your clicker when it moves its paw. Repeat training until your cat offers its paw in response to the “shake” command without tapping. Like the “come on command” trick, this can take a few training sessions over the course of a couple of days. Once this skill is mastered, your cat will be ready to star in internet cat memes.

How to train a cat to walk on a leash

Get a harness with a leash that attaches at the cat’s back, not its neck. Before putting it on your cat, leave it out for a few days in areas where your cat goes—like its feeding area or favorite sleeping spot, so that the animal is accustomed to the sight of it. Next, you’ll transition to draping the harness over the cat (without fully attaching it) when giving it a treat. You’ll eventually move to securing the harness around the cat without the leash—leave it on your cat for a couple of minutes at first, then increase the time over the course of a few days. Once your pet is comfortable with the harness, attach the leash to it, and let your cat wander freely inside with it. After a few days, start holding the leash during training. Then: Ease into the great outdoors! Make sure you let your cat take its time exploring a new area, and start somewhere quiet.

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Potty Train Your Puppy

When deciding how to potty train a puppy, or a newly adopted dog, you have two options— train them to relieve themselves outdoors, or inside your home on a pee pad and then transition them to the outdoors. We’ll take you through both options and give you tips to incorporate crate potty training into your plan.

How to Train a Puppy to Pee Outside

Your puppy can tell you they have to relieve themselves if you teach them a “potty cue.” Potty cues begin by showing your pet how to signal they want to go outdoors. From there, your puppy will associate the feeling of peeing with being outside of your home. Here’s how to get started!

Step 1: Teach your puppy the potty cue

Have your puppy sit by the door you want them to signal at or exit from. When your pet barks, open the door and let them out. Rather not teach your pup to bark? Try a bell. When your pet rings the bell, open the door and take them outside. Remember, the potty cue is just for going potty, don’t let your puppy play too much outside after doing their business - otherwise, they will associate the cue with getting to play outside, not just going potty.

What to do if you need to change the potty cue

So you taught your puppy to bark when they need to go to the bathroom, but now they bark nonstop. You can try teaching them a new cue like sitting at the door. You could even place a rug by the door, and train your puppy to know that when they sit on the rug, you open the door. From here, repeat steps two and three to complete your pet’s retraining.

Step 2: Determine a set potty area

Put your puppy on a leash and walk them out to the part of the yard you want your dog to relieve themselves at. Don’t continue walking. Instead, wait for your pet to relieve themselves. When your puppy does, reward them with treats and verbal praise. This will make peeing outside a positive experience. If they don’t go, take your puppy back in the house and repeat. They will catch on fast.

Step 3: Use a crate when you’re not home

When you aren’t home with your pet, confine them to an area, such as a crate. This helps limit accidents in your bedroom, living room, or any other areas when you aren’t there to hear or see the cue.

The Indoors-to-Outdoors Method

If you don’t have a yard, or your puppy is in the process of completing their shots, it may be best to begin potty training indoors and then transition your pet to the outdoors. To begin training your dog to relieve themselves in the correct place indoors, you’ll need to learn how to potty train a puppy on pads, or how to get started with crate potty training.

How to potty train a puppy on pads

Determine a confined area to begin house training—like the bathroom or the laundry room (ideally somewhere with easy to clean floors in case of accidents!). Whichever area you decide, make sure it’s puppy-proofed and remove any harmful products. Next, set up the space by covering the floor with pee pads and placing your pet’s bed in a corner of the room.

To help you get started with a routine, here are some steps you can follow:

STEP 1: Change pee pads often but place a small piece of the soiled pad on top of the clean pad in the area you want your puppy to pee. The scent reminds your puppy that this area is the bathroom.

STEP 2: Remove the pee pads closest to your pet’s bed once your puppy is peeing in the same area.

STEP 3: Continue removing the pee pads until you have removed all but one or two sheets.

When you have consistent success with your puppy only using one or two pee pads, you can gradually expand the area they have access to. If accidents begin to occur, reduce the area. For pet parents who plan to transition their puppy to an indoor or patio grass “potty,” migrate the papers near this spot. Now, you’re ready to teach your puppy a potty cue so they can relieve themselves outdoors.

Crate potty training

Before you begin crate potty training, you need the right size containment. Keep in mind your pet only needs enough space to stand up, turn around, and lie down. Any more room will encourage them to relieve themselves in one corner and sleep in another. Some crates come with dividers so you can adjust the size as they grow.

To get your puppy used to their crate, toss a treat in and allow them to go inside and come back out. Praise your puppy each time they enter. Work your way up to your pet spending 10 minutes in their crate and then longer once they’re comfortable. When your puppy associates their crate as their living space, crate potty training begins.

Instead of soiling the area where they sleep and eat, they’ll let you know they need to go. Like other potty training methods, developing a routine is key. Within fifteen minutes of eating, drinking or playing, your puppy should have the opportunity to relieve themselves. For more tips on crate potty training, check out our crate training guide.

How Long Does it Take to Potty Train a Puppy?

There is no defined timeframe when it comes to how to potty train a puppy. There are many factors that come into play, with consistency being the most important. Be sure to reward your puppy when they follow their training plan.

Dealing with accidents

Accidents will happen no matter how much you try to prevent them. It’s a matter of determining the cause and reinforcing positive behavior. Recognizing when your pet is stressed or what continually triggers accidents will help you come up with corrective measures. For cleaning up messes, be sure to give the soiled area a good cleaning. Pet-safe stain removers and odor removers are good cleaning products to have on hand.

Keep in mind that even a house-trained puppy will have accidents when out and about. To limit this behavior, keep your puppy’s schedule as consistent as possible. If you’re going on a trip or visiting friends, take your puppy on a long walk with lots of opportunities to empty their bladder beforehand. Bringing toys is another useful technique, as they can help keep your pet focused on an activity.

Potty training a puppy takes time and commitment, so don’t lose your patience. When you feel your pet is straying off course, return to the basics. Whichever method you choose, stick to it and develop a routine. With positive reinforcement, your pet will begin to recognize when they are showing good behavior. Stay prepared by shopping all the potty training supplies you’ll need!

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