Why is my dog licking so much that a sore spot forms?

Pet-owners want to know: Why is my dog licking so much that a sore spot forms?

It’s a lot like kids who suck their thumb — once the habit starts, it’s hard to break. Here’s what you need to know about causes and treatment.

A dog’s list of annoying habits can often be endless. Obsessive itching, licking, scratching, urinating on your favorite rug, jumping up on people— endless. Similar habits, such as dog licking that is taken to self-harm levels, that results in the dog developing sores called lick granulomas.

Maybe you’ve seen this: a raised, red sore on a front leg that your dog licks at obsessively. Or perhaps you never seen your dog lick, but the sore is there all the same.

Chances are you told your dog to stop, so they learned to become secretive about licking. Well, these sores are surprisingly common.

Why your dog is constantly licking one spot

Dogs aren’t much different from us. Once the habit starts, it’s hard to break.

The reason is that the dog licking releases feel-good hormones called endorphins. The dog licks, it feels good, and the dog doesn’t want to stop licking.

You may hear your vet refer to the condition as acral lick dermatitis, or ALD, where dogs are licking their legs so much that sores developed.

Studies have shown that when nature’s own morphine-like substances — the endorphins — are involved in ALD, because affected dogs’ self-licking behavior decreased dramatically when the dogs were treated with endorphin antagonists. Since endorphins are released when stress arises, it can be confirmed that licking appears in situations where stress is involved.

Possible Health-Related Causes of the Licking

For most dogs, the habit starts with a trigger in the form of an itch, ache or infection.

It may be that the dog has arthritis or an allergy, and rather than lick the specific spot, the dog chooses a comfortable place to lick — which is often a forearm or paw.

Common triggers:

• Arthritis

• Parasitic infection that causes a general itch

• A bacterial skin infection

• Ringworm

• Skin allergies triggering an itch

More than half of dogs with acral lick dermatitis are suspected to have concurrent fear- or anxiety-based conditions or both (e.g., separation anxiety, noise phobia, anxiety-related aggression).

The Derma Dilemma

The problem is that a veterinarian cannot give the owner a specific recipe for a cure. The skin lesions will heal slightly, almost seem like they are going to heal, but then overnight (or during the day while left alone) the lick granuloma is activated by the dog licking the area raw once again.

Even worse, some dogs will simply switch to licking the other leg if you restrict their ability to lick the first leg by wrapping it in a cast, creating an even more annoying problem—now there are 2 lick granulomas!

Does Your Dog Do This? If So, Act Quickly.

If your dog starts to lick obsessively, seek the help of your veterinarian. Getting to the bottom of the cause, and early treatment, is the best way to stop the problem from becoming ingrained.

Alongside treating the lick granuloma, your vet may want to run tests to investigate any underlying problems.

Treatment of Lick Granulomas / Sore Spots in Dogs

Think of this as a 2-pronged attack: tackling both the sores and the underlying cause.

Lick granulomas are frustrating because even with successful treatment, the dog is likely to relapse. To stand any chances of long-term success, therapy must continue for at least 4 weeks after the symptoms have ceased.

Treating the sores:

• Antibiotics or antifungals

• Local anesthetic creams

• Anti-inflammatory medications (to reduce the skin tingle)

• Bandages or an Elizabethan collar (“cone of shame”)

• Mood-modifying drugs

Your vet may try one or a combination of the treatments above.

Frustratingly, putting an Elizabethan collar on doesn’t work well because as soon as it is removed, the licking starts again and the dog will activate the lesion all over again.

Addressing the underlying triggers:

• The first step is to find out what they are. This could mean blood tests, skin biopsies or radiographs.

• In the case of allergies, starting the dog on a hypoallergenic diet is a great idea, as is testing for environmental allergens.

• Regular parasite treatments against fleas and mites are crucial to keep parasitic itches at bay.

Ultimately, to find the right solution for your dog, speak with your vet.

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Dog Health

How to Teach a Rescue Dog to Love Again

Imagine you’re a dog that has been surrendered, and upon waking up, only to find that everything in your world is different. Around you, others are screaming and crying. Now imagine you’re a stray, found on the streets never knowing where your next meal may be or maybe you spent most of your days chained up and unloved. On good days, a stranger comes to visit and take you for a walk. The rest of the time, there is nothing to do but sleep and wait. Then, it all changes again. A new family. A new home. All new smells. It’s no wonder that bonding with rescue dogs is a slow, tedious process that requires patience.

The First Steps to Bonding With a Rescue Dog

Dogs are trusting by nature but that trust has limits. The more a dog is subject to abandonment, the more anxiety-ridden they’re likely to be. While we may not always know the specific circumstances that led a dog to feel unsafe in the world, rebuilding trust is possible.

Give your new dog space

One of the larger mistakes people make with fearful dogs is paying them too much attention too quickly. For most dogs with severe anxiety or trust issues, you are part of the landscape of scary stuff they’ve been thrust into.

The absolute best thing you can do for an emotionally fragile dog is to give them space. Bonding with a rescue dog is all about going slow. Don’t force your dog to sit with you on the couch or sleep with you in the bed. Do offer them a comfortable alternative (like a dog bed) that is theirs alone, somewhere within eyesight but just out of reach.

Let your dog guide your interactions

Instead of approaching your dog to give them attention, let your dog come to you when they’re feeling comfortable.

A few other tips for bonding with a rescue dog at a pace they can handle:

• Stay away from petting sensitive areas like their head, ears, tail, and paws.

• Choose to pet areas like your dog’s side or back.

• Never hover, bend over your dog or attempt to hug them close to your body. These actions can make a frightened dog feel trapped and lead to increased anxiety and even a bite.

• Never allow someone unfamiliar to approach and pet your dog unless your dog is soliciting attention from them.

Try classical conditioning

If your pet is skittish when you move around, classical conditioning and desensitization techniques can help your pet feel more secure about being in your presence. Your objective is to merely deliver an amazing, delicious treat.

Here’s how to do it:

1. With a chunk of high-value food (chicken, cheese, hot dogs, etc.) or a yummy chew like a pig’s ear or bully stick, walk towards your dog.

2. Drop the object close by, then continue walking away.

3. You can speak to your dog in pleasing, soothing tones, but don’t stop to pet them.

4. Repeat this daily (or multiple times a day) until you see your dog start to perk up a bit when you approach.

5. Next time you drop the food, instead of walking away, hang out nearby.

6. You can talk to your dog in soothing tones but don’t interfere with your dog’s eating. (NEVER take away a food object from a fearful dog.)

7. Repeat until your dog is able to comfortably eat their treat with you nearby.

Over time, and with repetition, your dog learns that being near you is a positive experience, and they’ll start to relax. A calm dog is more open to bonding with you.

Avoid hand-delivered treats in the beginning

Sure, bonding with a rescue dog involves treats—but it’s unwise to make a fearful dog take food from your hand. Some dogs may be willing to get closer than they’re comfortable with in order to get high-value food, but by pushing them beyond their stress threshold, they’re unlikely to make long-term improvements.

Here’s how to work your way toward hand-fed treats:

• Instead of giving your dog a treat from your hand, toss it a few feet away from you.

• Repeat regularly until your dog is comfortable within a few feet of you and is happy to hang out there.

• Decrease the distance you throw the treat.

• Watch your dog’s body language to see if they’re able to take the treat from the new location while remaining relaxed. If so, repeat until they’re regularly approaching without signs of anxiety.

• Continue to shorten the distance slowly until, eventually, you offer the treat from your hand.

• If your dog darts in to grab the treat then darts away, you will know you are pushing them too fast.

Limit scary experiences on walks

To help a dog feel safe and confident in the world, they shouldn’t be placed in frightening situations. Remember that scary is relative. You may not think a rumbling truck or a busy street is scary, but your dog might.

To give your dog the best chance of building confidence outdoors, begin by walking them in the quietest place you can think of, preferably away from roads. Gradually over time (weeks or months, not days) shift your walks to busier and noisier locations. For example, your next location could be a quiet residential street.

Be sure to walk armed with plenty of high-value treats, which you can give your dog immediately after anything loud or unexpected happens. For example, if a skateboarder zooms by, immediately pull out a handful of treats and deliver them to your dog’s mouth one after another until your hand is empty. If your dog is uncomfortable taking treats from your hand, drop the handful on the ground beneath them.

Use games to build confidence

Bonding with a rescue dog that doesn’t trust the world requires confidence building. Games are a great way to start.

If your dog is uncomfortable being approached or eating food from your hand, try some extremely simple shaping exercises. Shaping is like a game of hot-and-cold where your dog is rewarded for moving closer to the goal.

How to play a shaping game

• Decide what you want your dog to do. Stick to easy tasks like walking to the dog bed or touching a toy with their nose or paw.

• Throw your dog a treat each time they look at the destination you’ve chosen for them.

• Next, throw them a treat for shifting or inching closer to it. If your dog moves away, don’t reward.

• Finally, when they accomplish the goal, jackpot them by throwing a handful of treats.

Practice your training exercises in short bursts of a few minutes at a time and make sure your dog is successful. If they’re struggling with a cue, they may not be ready for it. Be patient and always end on a win.

Help them make other dog friends

When you’re dealing with a dog with trust issues, it can be easy to forget that they’re still a dog. Many dogs that don’t trust humans are comfortable with their own kind.

Give your pup the opportunity to socialize with other dogs to help relieve stress and build their confidence in different environments. Busy enclosed dog parks aren’t always the best option for a fearful dog, as they can be noisy, chaotic, and overwhelming.

For best results, create opportunities where they can interact with one or two pets at a time, or where they have enough space to encounter other dogs without feeling pressured to interact, like a dog-friendly recreation area.

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dog health, client care

Preparing Your Pet for the 4th of July + Fireworks

It’s almost July and you know what that means: barbeques, open doors, fireworks, and scared pets. This time of year can be especially frightening for our furry friends. In our experience, July 4th is the busiest holiday for lost pets in the whole year. Here are some ways that you can prepare your pets and keep them safe and calm before and during the celebrations:

• Take your dog out for plenty of exercise during the day before the festivities begin

• Keep pets indoors. They may feel safer if they are placed in a smaller interior room with a radio/tv playing.

• Close your windows. Dogs in particular can try and get out of the house by pushing out the screen. Dogs have been known to bolt through screen doors, so keep your inside door closed.

• Check your fence line for loose boards or openings that your dog could slip through or dig out of. We suggest you even keep a leash on your dog and walk them in the fenced yard during peak fireworks times. Never leave your pet unattended, even in a secure yard.

• Have current, clear photos of your pets on hand. If they do go missing, you will want to be able to quickly create flyers to distribute in your neighborhood.

• Make sure all your pets' microchips are registered and your contact information is up-to-date in your pet's microchip account, and that they are wearing visible ID such as collars and tags that display their name and microchip number clearly.

• If you have outdoor cats, make sure they are inside before nightfall during this season.

• Provide a safe space for pets to retreat such as a closed room with their favorite toys, blankets, pillows, and plenty of water.

REMEMBER: if your pet gets scared by the fireworks and escapes from your property, don’t panic! They are generally running away to find a hiding spot away from the loud noises and flashing lights. Do not chase or whistle for the animal, as it may make them more distressed. Alert local authorities, animal shelters, and put in a Lost Pet Report with your local Facebook and Neighborhood groups.

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cat health

My Dog Gets Anxious Going to the Vet

In a recent study released by the American Veterinary Medical Association (reported by NewSTAT), dogs undergo considerable stress and anxiety when they go for veterinary visits.

The study looked at 36 seemingly normal, healthy client-owned dogs and measured a number of parameters when the dogs were at home and again at the veterinary facility. This study evaluated changes in vital signs when dogs traveled between the home environment and the veterinary environment. Differences were recorded between dogs in the two environments.

These dogs had their respiratory rate, pulse rate, rectal temperature, and systolic arterial blood pressure measured in their home environment. They were then taken to the veterinary hospital and the measurements were repeated. The changes between the two environments were significant.

Dog anxiety at the veterinarian’s office

According to aaha.org, significant differences in blood pressure, rectal temperature, and pulse rate were observed between measurements obtained in the two environments. “Mean blood pressure increased by 16%..., rectal temperature increased (by < 1%)…, and pulse rate increased by 11% …. The number of dogs panting in the hospital environment (63%) was significantly higher than the number of dogs panting at home (17%).” Panting is frequently considered an indication of stress.

Similar studies of human patients have revealed a similar “white coat syndrome;” an elevation of blood pressure limited to the doctor’s office.

While more studies are indicated to evaluate the significance of these seemingly stress-related findings, it would appear that cats are not the only pets stressed when traveling to the veterinarian. Of course, routine veterinary visits for your pet are no less important than your own visits to the doctor. Therefore, efforts should be made to reduce the stress associated with veterinary visits.

Help your dog avoid anxiety at the veterinarian’s office

One important tip to reducing the stress of a vet visit is centered around car rides.

Steps to get your pet accustomed to car rides:

1. Some dogs get upset just getting in the car. Remember, they haven’t always had a positive experience. Begin by just putting your dog in the car with you for a few minutes. Don’t even start the car, just speak softly and pet your dog. Then let your dog out of the car and give them a treat. Repeat this several times daily, for a few days, until they associate getting into the car with the treat.

2. When you're both comfortable in the car, start the engine. Again, just sit there reassuring your dog; give them a treat. Repeat this for a couple of days.

3. Next, drive around a block or two and take your dog home for a treat. As your dog gets more comfortable, lengthen the drives and end them with a reward—a treat, a walk—whatever your dog seems to enjoy. A few days of this will show your dog that there are good things associated with the car.

4. Drive to the veterinary clinic, but don’t take your dog in. just wait in the car and drive back home. You can walk the dog on a leash, around the parking lot, or just take the dog in and give them a reward.

5. Schedule an appointment and take the dog into the exam room—no shots, no treatments— just a reward.

6. Always end your visit to the veterinarian with a treat and, on occasion, a play period.

Granted, this will take some time and commitment, but it will do a lot to eliminate the fear factor.

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Related: We have more information under our dog health category.