How to Bunny Proof Your Home

Rabbits are curious pets that not only need a lot of space to roam and explore outside of their cage but also tend to get into things they shouldn't. By bunny proofing your home, your rabbit can explore their domain without getting into trouble.

Flooring & Baseboards

Rabbits love to dig so expect that any ground surface that will allow them to do so will be dug. Unfortunately, for many bunny lovers, this means their carpeting is the victim of their bunny's behavior.

Area rugs, carpet, and carpet padding are all attractive digging items for your rabbit so if you have them in the room you designate for your rabbit's playtime or home, it is very likely that they will be ruined. If you are okay with this likely potential, then that's fine (just make sure they aren't actually eating what they dig up).

If you want to avoid the mess and possible fiber ingestion, choose a room for your bunny that has a non-porous, easy-to-clean surface instead. Linoleum, tile, and laminate flooring are popular choices for bunny owners since they can't be dug into, don't absorb urine, and won't stain.

Baseboards are another concern for chewing rabbits, namely all rabbits. Wooden baseboard corners and edges seem to scream to be chewed on by your rabbit. If these can be avoided in the room where your rabbit roams that is ideal, but if not, you should cover or protect the baseboards to avoid them being destroyed.

Some rabbit owners make custom baseboard protectors by using pieces of wood with hinges that stand up to block the boards. You can use wire and plastic storage cube pieces that snap together and lean up against the wall, short pieces of wooden fence pickets individually attached with removable adhesive pieces (i.e. Command™ strips) so they can be replaced as needed, and other creative protective options. Some people simply line the entire room with playpen sections to protect the walls, corners, doors, and baseboards. Plastic corner protectors that attach with adhesive are also useful for baseboard corners.

If you have carpeting that has been chewed or is especially vulnerable to being chewed (corners that lift up) try placing furniture, litter boxes (if your rabbit is litter box trained), area rugs, or mats meant to be chewed by rabbits on those spots. This will not only hide the area but potentially keep them from chewing it.

Doors

If you don't use metal baby gates to keep your rabbit contained, then you probably have wooden doors that do the job instead. Rabbits will chew the bottoms and corners of these doors so in order to protect them you can put a kick plate the very bottom of them. A kick plate can also be helpful in covering up previous rabbit damage on the bottom of a door. Also, be sure to remove the door stop if it is at the bunny's level and instead utilize one at the top of the door or install a door handle wall guard.

Electrical Cords and Outlets

Cords and wires are not only things that are hard to replace on lamps and electronics but they are also extremely dangerous to your bunny if they are chewed.

WARNING

Electrical shocks and burns are seen in rabbits that chew on wires. Death is possible from the initial electrocution or side effects of the damage it does to the mouth.

Make sure all electrical cords and wires are out of reach of your rabbit. Utilize ceiling lights whenever possible or keep lamps on a table. Protect cords with plastic cord protectors, flex tubing (corrugated plastic tubing), or PVC pipe if you absolutely cannot avoid a cord being in the room with your rabbit but you should do everything you can to keep your rabbit from having access to electrical cords. Use a baby electrical outlet plug to make sure your rabbit doesn't try to chew the outlet opening as well.

Furniture

Furniture legs are often the victims of rabbit teeth just like baseboards. They come in so many different shapes and sizes so you may have to get a little creative with coming up with an option to protect them. Flex tubing is a popular choice to slide onto furniture legs since it is flexible and comes in different diameters.

Large PVC piping is another protective option or you can use temporary chewing alternatives like toilet paper and paper towel tubes to slide onto thin table legs and provide your rabbit with something to shred. Other creative options include plastic flower pots, bed leg risers (turned upside down) or protectors (such as Bed Boots™), and plastic furniture corner protectors. You may have to make something to fit the furniture legs in your home if you can't find something to slide over them.

Plants

All plants should be off the ground and out of your rabbit's reach but ideally, the room your bunny frequents shouldn't have any houseplants at all. While there are some safe plants, some plants are toxic to rabbits if they eat them and potted plants will just be dug up and make a mess so there are really no good reasons to keep them where your bunny is.

Provide Chewing Options

The best thing you can really do to bunny proof any room is to make sure a variety of chewing options are available to your rabbit at all times. Of course, they will always chew what you don't want them to chew (unless you train them not to) but if they have things they can chew they will be less likely to chew a baseboard, door, or table leg.

Make Items Taste Bad to Your Bunny

Bitter sprays (such as Grannick's Bitter Apple spray) can also be a useful chewing deterrent for items you can't protect. Spray this regularly on fabric furniture, decor, area rug edges, and other items to help discourage your bunny from chewing them by making these items taste bad. There are also lotion or cream options if you need something other than a spray.

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What to do if your pet rabbit is itching and scratching

Rabbits shouldn't scratch themselves any more than you would. If your pet rabbit seems excessively itchy and scratches a lot, it is likely a problem that needs to be addressed. Various issues—from mites to allergies—can cause a rabbit to itch and scratch, but fortunately, these are treatable!

Why Do Rabbits Itch and Scratch?

When an animal experiences severe itching and scratching, it's called pruritus. In a rabbit, it can be due to fur, skin, or ear parasites; dry skin; allergies; or infections. No matter the cause, it's important to take care of it right away for the sake of your rabbit's health and quality of life.

Fur Mites

Cheyletiella parasitivorax are microscopic mites that live in the fur of rabbits. Cheyletiella mites are blood-sucking parasites that bite your rabbit in order to feed, which causes it to itch and scratch.

Fur mites are also referred to as "walking dandruff," because they're often seen moving the dead skin around on rabbits, creating the appearance of mobile skin cells. They may start off in a small area on your rabbit, but if left untreated, they can spread all over its fur, into the environment in which they live, and to other rabbits and pets.

Even if your rabbit never goes outside, it can get fur mites from food or bedding that you bring into your home.

Lice

While not as common as some other parasites, lice do infest rabbits. They're species-specific, so humans and other non-rabbit pets can't get them.

Fleas

Many people don't think that rabbits can get fleas, but the reality is that any pet with fur can. Fleas, like fur mites, are blood-sucking parasites that bite rabbits, which, in turn, causes them to itch and scratch.

Female fleas lay up to 50 eggs every day, so even if you only see one or two adult fleas on your rabbit, they've probably already laid hundreds of eggs. Fleas also bite humans, but female fleas usually can't produce viable eggs when human blood is their only food source.

Indoor rabbits can get fleas just like outdoor rabbits. Other pets in the household can give your rabbit fleas and they can be tracked in from the outdoors. Fleas can also find their own way into homes just like other insects, such as ants.

A flea comb will help you find fleas and flea dirt. Flea dirt is the cylindrical feces that turn red if rubbed with a wet cotton swab. This is a good trick for distinguishing the digested blood from normal environmental dirt.

Dry Skin

Your rabbit may develop dry skin, which can make it itch and scratch. Rooms with very low humidity, dusty environments, poor diets, and bathing your rabbit too often or using inappropriate shampoos can all contribute to dry skin in your pet. If you can determine the cause of the dry skin, then you should be able to reverse it. For temporary relief, ask your vet to recommend a rabbit-safe spray product.

Ear Mites

Psoroptes cuniculiis are ear mites that cause itching and scratching. They can be spread from rabbit to rabbit, so wash your hands after handling a rabbit with itchy ears (and in general!). You may notice hair loss around the ears and/or scabs, or the rabbit's ears may look especially dirty. A head tilt, a flopped ear, and head shaking are all signs of an ear mite infestation, which doesn't always affect both ears. If you notice any of these signs, take your rabbit to see the veterinarian.

Allergies

Just like people, some rabbits are allergic to certain substances that cause them to itch and scratch. Usually, these allergies are environmental and not food-based, so you can make changes to bedding, litter, cleaning solutions, and air purifiers to make your rabbit more comfortable at home.

Common environmental allergens include the dust in certain litters or in the rabbit's hay, as well as laundry softeners and detergents used on blankets.

Rabbits can also be allergic to parasites such as fur mites and fleas. This will make an infestation of these pests even more irritating to your pet.

Skin Irritants

In addition to allergies, rabbits may be irritated by certain products, especially if they aren't meant for rabbits. Shampoos, conditioners, sprays, and air fresheners may all cause skin irritation in your rabbit. If you use a new product, such as a shampoo, and the next day your rabbit is itching, it may be because it was too harsh for your rabbit's skin. This is often the case with products meant for dogs that are used on rabbits.

Ringworm

Caused by two main types of organisms (Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Microsporum canis), ringworm is a fungal infection that causes hair loss, itching, and red "ringworm" lesions in rabbits. People can also contract ringworm from a rabbit.

The main cause of ringworm, as well as mites and fleas, is direct contact with an infected rabbit. When you bring a new rabbit into your home, keep it separate from your other rabbits until you're sure it doesn't have an infection. Rabbits can also contract ringworm from dirty environments and brushes that were used on an infected rabbit.

Skin Infections

Urine scald and feces that have remained in prolonged contact with your rabbit's skin and generally unclean environments may cause your rabbit to develop a skin infection. The infected area may become red, inflamed, and very itchy and should be treated right away.

Treating Itching and Scratching for Rabbits

The methods used to treat a rabbit's itching and scratching depend on the cause. However, a number of problems are solved through the same means.

• Fur mites are highly contagious to other rabbits. If you have other pets in your house and your rabbit is diagnosed with Cheyletiella mites, take care not to spread these parasites to other animals. Wash your hands after handling your rabbit and throw away the food and bedding in its cage.

• For fur and ear mites, lice, and fleas, freeze all unused food and bedding that you purchased from a pet store or online. The parasites can be brought into your home with such items, so freezing them before use is also a good way to prevent an infestation.

• If your exotics vet diagnoses your rabbit with mites, she will most likely prescribe a medication such as Selamectin, which will kill the infestation without harming your rabbit. Over-the-counter products are typically not safe for rabbits, and you should always consult your veterinarian prior to administering such products.

• If you find fleas or flea dirt on your rabbit, treat your rabbit and all the other furry pets in the household with a safe medication, just as you would for fur mites.4 You will also need to clean and treat the environment. Some rabbit owners use boric acid powder in their carpeting and various flea sprays and bombs sold at pet stores. If you choose to use these products, make sure your rabbit is out of the room you're treating for at least 24 hours.

• If your rabbit has environmental allergies, use fragrance-free fabric softeners and detergents meant for babies or sensitive skin to wash its blankets. If symptoms continue, look to other possible allergens in your rabbit's environment—for example, dust or pollen from an open window in spring or summer—and try to correct these.

• Ringworm is usually treated with topical ointments or oral medication prescribed by your exotics vet.

• Skin infections typically require prescription medications. An anti-itch spray is available that's safe to use on rabbits, but if the root of the problem isn't addressed, the spray merely provides temporary relief.

How to Prevent Itching and Scratching

Often, your rabbit's itchiness can be prevented by keeping its environment clean. The freezing recommendation for any rabbit supplies is an excellent place to begin as is the use of fragrance-free laundry products for any washable rabbit bedding.

Beyond these, be sure that your rabbit's cage is as clean as possible. Daily and weekly upkeep can make a significant difference in the health of your pet and prevent many skin infections. When bathing your rabbit, use only products designed specifically for rabbits.

It's also a good idea to regularly examine your rabbit's fur. This will help you to easily recognize any abnormalities and take treatment steps immediately, which can prevent an infestation, ear, or skin problem from getting worse.
At the same time, take precautions for any other pets in your home, using products such as flea preventives on a regular basis. Take care about exposing your rabbit to other animals that could transmit any of these issues as well, especially if it's kept outside or allowed to go outside.

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Litter Training a Rabbit

Yes, you can litter-train your bunny. But, spaying or neutering has to come first. It is almost impossible to litter train an unspayed or unneutered rabbit. If you can’t resist letting your bunny have the run of the house immediately, be prepared to have them consider your house as one very large litter box. Once this habit is established, it is very hard to change. It is far better to spend your time in the beginning training and reap the benefits of a well-mannered bunny after the fact.

Buy the right boxes

Bunnies like to have enough room to stretch out in their boxes and, if you have a bonded pair, you have to allow enough room for both of them.

Medium to large-sized cat litter boxes are perfect. The ordinary tray-type ones will do; not the deep or covered varieties. Your bunny will probably appreciate and insist on having more than one litter location, so pick up more than one!

If you have large bunnies, cement mixing tubs are another great litter box alternative available at most large hardware stores. These are very roomy and inexpensive.

Get the right litter

There are several important bunny litter do's and don'ts when it comes to bunnies:

Do choose:

• Yesterday's News, Crown Bedding (or similar) recycled newspaper pellet litter/animal bedding

• Carefresh (or similar) paper pulp litter/animal bedding

• Woodstove pellets (these are used as fuel for woodstoves, but are actually great as bunny litter pellets.)

• Ground corncob pet litter/bedding

Always check the label. Don't buy litter that is cedar, cedar oils, zinc or the clumping clay.

Do NOT choose:

• No clay litter. This can cause serious respiratory problems.

• No Cat Works litter. This can cause zinc poisoning and death.

• No Pine or Cedar litters. These can also kill your rabbit.

Layer with Timothy Hay

You can buy Timothy Hay in bags from most pet stores, and that will do just fine. If you have a little more time, see if you can find a specialty store, feed store, or farm that sells Timothy Hay. This tends to be even yummier to discerning bunnies.

Never use hay that looks dusty or moldy or smells bad. It can kill your bunny.

Fill the litter box properly

If you've had a bunny before, you know that you can do nothing right—especially not the first time. So, it might take some trial and error to find the 'proper way' to fill the litter box (according to your bunny, that is).

Start with around one inch of litter, and cover that with Timothy Hay.

Prepare to do a little clean-up

Nobody's perfect. Your bunny will probably have a few accidents as they are learning to use the box.

Always remember: rabbits do not respond well to physical discipline. They have been designed to be easily frightened and broken; never physically discipline your rabbit. You and/or your rabbit could end up seriously hurt and your rabbit will end up terrified of you rather than your loving companion.

The most effective cleaning solution for bunny pee accidents is white vinegar. It's a good idea to get a spray bottle and fill it with white vinegar or vinegar and water. You can also use Nature's Miracle enzyme cleaner, but this is a bit more expensive.

How to litter train your bunny

1. Choose your location

While you are litter training your bunny, they will have to stay in an enclosed area. So, before you start training, choose and prepare the training area. A bathroom, utility room, or other small room without carpeting is a good place to start the training. You can also use a cage or an x-pen.

If you are training in a room with slippery floors, put a rug or towel down for the bunny to lay on.

Trim your bunny's nails. This will help them feel more comfortable on a slippery floor.

Be prepared to confine your bunny for a while. You can't let them out into any other room until they are always urinating in their box.

2. Prepare the litter box

Use 1" of litter covered with Timothy hay. Add in some of the rabbit's poops and urine-soaked paper or hay. Place the litter box wherever the bunny seems to prefer to use, which is often a corner.

3. Add bunny

When you first let your bunny into the training area, stay in the room. When they leave droppings on the floor, immediately put both bunny and the droppings in the litter box. Tell them what a good bunny they are and pet them. Spend as much time as you can with them and when you have to leave, put them back into their cage or enclosure. A baby gate (not light plastic!) works well to divide a room into a manageable space. Repeat this often until they have the training room mastered. Only then can you let them out into another room.

• Clean up accidents ASAP.

• If the rabbit likes to dig and moves the box around, you can use a large metal clamp to fix it to the side of the hutch. They can be purchased at most hardware stores. You might also drill a small hole in the side of the box and secure it with twist ties.

• Let the litter box stay a little dirty while the rabbit is learning. If you keep it too clean they will think that they are not supposed to use it. You can dispose of organic litter directly in the toilet or into the compost pile. Wonderful fertilizer is an added bonus of sharing your home with a rabbit.

4. Expand the area

After you are sure that your bunny is urinating only in the box, it's time to expand their area. Repeat step three in additional rooms.

Don't be afraid to use multiple litter boxes until your rabbit exhibits the appropriate litter box behaviors. Be sure and clean up behind any "accidents." If you witness your rabbit urinating outside their litter box, pick your rabbit up and place them in their litter box. Don't scold your rabbit, rather praise them once inside the litter box.

You can set a schedule while your rabbit is enjoying out time. Every 10 minutes place your rabbit in their litter box and praise them. Have a treat ready and offer it if they actually use the litter box. As time progresses, you can space out the amount of time between the reminder visits to their litter box. Time, patience, praise and consistent work will help your rabbit reshape their behavior.

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