Diagnosing Odor in Cats

Skin odor is a common manifestation of a skin infection. The most common skin infections in cats are bacterial (superficial pyoderma) and yeast (Malassezia dermatitis) infections. Skin discharge and/or odor can indicate that your cat may be suffering from a skin infection.

What are bacterial and yeast infections?

Bacterial infections are usually caused by bacteria that are part of the normal flora of the skin (e.g. Staphylococcus intermedius). For this reason, the infection is not contagious to other animals. In cats that have abnormal skin (e.g. allergies) the bacteria increases in number and causes red bumps (papules) and rancid odor. Some cats with bacterial skin infections also develop excessive shedding, patchy hair loss, and scaling. If the infection is left untreated, it may reach deeper parts of the skin. In these cases, nodules that have a purulent (pus) discharge develop. In most cases skin infections are secondary, so it is very important to pursue an underlying cause. Failure to do so will result in reoccurring infections.

Animals often develop a yeast infection (Malassezia dermatitis), which manifests itself as greasy, red, itchy skin with a rancid odor. Areas most commonly affected include the ventral neck, groin, armpits (axillae), and perineal areas. This infection is also secondary to an underlying disease, most commonly allergies. In some cats this may be a consequence of chronic antibiotic and steroid therapy but, as a general rule, cats do not develop yeast infections after antibiotic therapy as commonly as people do.

Diagnosis of Skin Discharge or Odor in Cats

• History is very important for the proper diagnosis of skin diseases. Your veterinarian will ask questions regarding the age of onset, progression of the disease, and response to previous treatments.

• Skin cytology provides useful information on the type and severity of infection. Your veterinarian may take samples of skin (e.g. swabs or tape impressions).

• In some cases, a biopsy may be necessary to establish a final diagnosis. Some samples may be used for cultures of various types while others may be sent to a pathologist to obtain more information about the cells that are present in the skin.

Treatment for Bacterial Dermatitis

Treatment for bacterial skin disorders is antibiotics. Some of the more commonly used antibiotics include ampicillin, cephalexin, enrofloxacin, clindamycin, clavulinc acid and sulf based drugs.

The minimum length of therapy for superficial pyoderma is 3 to 4 weeks. The minimum length of therapy for deep pyoderma is 8 weeks. As a rule, therapy should be continued for 2 to 4 weeks beyond the resolution of clinical signs.

Treatment of Malassezia Dermatitis​

Systemic therapy is reserved for severe cases. It is important to note that griseofulvin is not effective against yeasts. Ketoconazole, itraconazole and fluconazole are all effective against Malassezia.

Topical therapy as the sole treatment is only effective in mild cases while severe cases usually require systemic therapy. Selenium sulfide (Selsun Blue®) is a keratolytic, anti-seborrheic, degreasing agent that will kill Malassezia (effective in 65 percent of cases).

Ketoconazole shampoo (Nizoral®) is approved in many countries for the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis in people and is usually effective in killing Malassezia.

Chlorexidine at 2 to 4 percent might be effective against yeasts, 0.5 to 1 percent is not effective.

Miconazole (Dermazole ®, Resi-zole® leave on conditioner) is also effective.

Vinegar/water rinse (1/5 to 1/10) is a cheap and effective long-term maintenance treatment to prevent relapses.

At-Home Care for Cats

You will need to shampoo your cat with medicated shampoos. Benzoyl Peroxide is an excellent antibacterial antibiotic (e.g. Oxydex®, Pyoben® shampoo). Other antifungal shampoos contain miconazole or ketoconazole (e.g. Nizoral® shampoo for dandruff is now available OTC).

Contact time is important when using a medicated shampoo. You should allow a 10 to 15 minutes contact time for the product to be effective. Leave-on products are also available on the market for prolonged efficacy.

You may have to administer oral medications (either antibiotics or antifungal medications) to help treat the infection. Compliance is very important. Some cats may require medications for a prolonged time as skin infections usually take a while to clear. Speak with your veterinarian before administering medication to your pet.

If your cat keeps relapsing with infections, it is important to pursue an underlying cause. This will decrease the frequency of relapses and reduce the risk of resistance to medications used for prolonged periods of time.

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered straight to your e-mail inbox.

Related Categories:

cat health

How to Clean Your Dog’s Ears

Keeping your dog's ears clean and dry is an important part of keeping them healthy and happy. In this article, we explain how to do an easy-does-it ear cleaning.

Have you rubbed your dog’s ears today? Sure you have. It’s one of those things we do almost mindlessly, relishing their softness and our dog’s positive response. But did you know that rubbing your dog’s ears is also a great way to make sure they are healthy? Think about it. If your dog enjoys having them rubbed, you can tell their ears are healthy. If they’re tender from an infection or injury, your dog may pull away from you, unwilling to have them touched. Gently massaging your dog’s ears is a great first step toward checking their condition. If you notice that they are sensitive about having them touched, it’s time to take a closer sniff.

Sniff & See

Yes, sniff. Healthy ears don’t have an odor. Make a habit of sniffing your dog’s ears, starting when they are just a puppy, so you know how they smell normally. If their ears smell yeasty or downright stinky, it’s likely that a bacterial or yeast infection is brewing.

Then take a look inside their ears. The skin should be nice and pink with a light coating of pale yellowish wax. A small amount of wax is part of the ear’s self-cleaning system. If the ears look red or have a dark brown or black discharge, or if your dog frequently shakes their head, paws at their ears, or rubs them against the carpet or furniture, they need a visit to the veterinarian to see what’s causing the problem.

How do you know if your dog’s ears need to be cleaned? If they look and smell good, leave them alone. In fact, cleaning a healthy ear can damage its self-cleaning abilities or irritate it.

Clean the ears yourself (see the step-by-step directions below) if they have a mild odor and you see an occasional head shake. That may be enough to stop an infection before it takes hold. You should also clean the ears if the wax looks dirty gray instead of golden or if the ears look waxier than normal. When too much wax builds up, it can block airflow in the ear and lead to an infection of the outer ear canal.

When it comes to dogs and cats, ears are much the same. Both species get the same allergies and infections. Cats, however, are more likely to get parasitic infections (preventable with monthly or quarterly topical medications), whereas dogs are more predisposed to allergic ear disease.

Avoid Ear Infections

Take your dog to the vet if the signs—or smells—continue or worsen after you clean their ears. They may need a deep cleaning and antibiotic drops or ointment to resolve the infection.

Some dogs are ear-infection magnets. If you have a floppy-eared dog or a dog with a history of ear problems, check their ears weekly. There’s no scientific evidence that dogs with droopy ears have more ear infections, but anecdotally they tend to be the ones that veterinarians see more often with ear infections. That said, allergies are probably the main cause of ear problems, and they are seen in dogs of all types.

Your best bet for preventing ear infections is to keep your dog’s ears clean and dry. Bacteria and yeast love a warm, moist environment. Keep them at bay by drying your dog’s ears thoroughly after a swim or bath.

Step-by-Step Ear Cleaning for Dogs

• Tilt your dog's head downward with one hand and squirt a gentle cleanser (ask your veterinarian for a recommendation first!) into the ear, filling the canal.

• Using the flap to hold the ear closed, give it a nice massage—which will squish the cleanser around and soften any gunk inside.

• Step back and let your dog shake. You may want to hold a towel between you and your pooch so you aren't in the splash zone.

• Wipe away any remaining cleanser with soft, dry tissue, not going any deeper than your first knuckle. That’s all you need to do. (Don’t mess around with cotton swabs that can drive debris deeper into your dog’s ear or q-tips that can drive it down further or do damage to the inner ear.)

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered straight to your e-mail inbox.

Related Categories:

dog health