Circling in Hamsters

Hamsters are very active so it’s normal to see them running around their cages and on their exercise wheels. But if your hamster suddenly begins circling and tilting its head to one side while it is running around then this indicates something more concerning. Veterinary care may be necessary if your hamster is circling, so being able to recognize this issue is important for your hamster’s health.

Causes of Circling in Hamsters

Circling in hamsters occurs when a hamster has a head tilt. Head tilts are usually a result of an inner ear infection due to bacteria but other causes may be present.

With an inner ear infection, bacteria from a dirty environment or a respiratory infection enters the ear canal. The pressure that the infection causes inside the ear canal may result in a hamster feeling off-balance and in pain. This results in circling when it walks and some hamsters may even fall over.

Neurological problems due to trauma or a brain disease like epilepsy can also cause circling in hamsters. These issues are not as common as a bacterial infection in the ear but are still possible reasons for this type of behavior.

Diagnosing the Cause for Circling in Hamsters

While circling in hamsters may be an obvious behavior to observe, in order to know for sure what is causing this some tests may need to be run.

Since an ear infection is the most likely reason for the circling, debris from inside your hamster's ear may be looked at under a microscope. This will check to see if bacteria from an infection is present and, if it is, an ear infection will be diagnosed.

Neurological problems are harder to diagnose. If your hamster was recently injured before the circling began then this may mean it suffered head trauma at some point. Being dropped, grabbed by a dog, or crushed in a door or piece of furniture are all types of injuries that may cause head trauma.

Seizures are a symptom that will coincide with epilepsy, another neurological issue. There is no test for epilepsy. In these instances, continued close observation may be required and videoing any unusual behavior could be helpful for your vet.

Treatment of Circling in Hamsters

Persistent or severe circling in hamsters always merits a visit to your veterinarian.

If the behavior is caused by an ear infection, antibiotics that are safe for a hamster to take will need to be prescribed as treatment. Without them, permanent damage can occur to your hamster's ear and the circling may never stop. Infections can also lead to more serious complications that, in extreme cases, can be life-threatening. Oral antibiotics and sometimes pain medications may be needed to treat the infection. If ear debris is visible a gentle cleaning may also be helpful.

If the circling is not due to an ear infection then it may be more difficult to treat. Brain damage from seizures or head injury can be permanent. Some circling will resolve over time on its own but some hamsters may have permanent circling. If the circling is so bad that it affects your hamster's quality of life and it is unable to eat then euthanasia may be discussed.

How to Prevent Circling in Hamsters

Hamsters are small pets that like to hide. It can be difficult to notice when they are acting a little strange in their cages, but regular observation of your hamster's normal activities can help detect the beginning of a problem. This, along with regular cleaning of the cage and washing of the cage accessories, can help prevent ear infections that cause circling.

In order to prevent head trauma that can result in circling, be sure to only allow children to handle your hamster when they are sitting on the ground. This will decrease the likelihood of your hamster falling and getting hurt. When the child is done holding your hamster, either bring the cage to the floor to put them back in it or gently take your hamster from the child so that you can carefully put it back in its cage yourself.

Keep your hamster safe if you have dogs or cats in the house when they are out of their cage and make sure that their cage is secure and locked over at all times.

Accidents can happen but they are far less likely to occur if you supervise carefully and take extra precautions.

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered straight to your e-mail inbox.

Related Categories:

small animal care

Fungal Disease in Amphibians (Chytridiomycosis)

Chytridiomycosis

Chytridiomycosis is a serious infectious disease caused by Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis, a zoosporic fungus related to water molds. The fungus feeds on keratin, a protein found in the outermost layers of the skin, and survives in most environments, even without a host. It is believed that the decrease in the population of frogs in many areas is due to chytridiomycosis.

A common way to recognize chytridiomycosis is to check your amphibian's skin for sloughing or shedding. The disease can be fatal for amphibians left untreated. Therefore, owners suspecting chytridiomycosis in their amphibian must seek immediate veterinary care.

Symptoms and Types

An amphibian suffering from chytridiomycosis may shed excessively, develop thickened or pale skin and, in the cases of tadpoles, disfigured beaks. Other common symptoms or signs include:

• Lethargy

• Loss of appetite (anorexia)

• Constriction of the eye's pupil

• Abnormal posture of the hind legs

• Abnormal behavior and disposition

• Hyperemia (an increase in blood flow to different body tissues)

Some amphibians present no clinical symptoms of the disease, but are still infected with the Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis fungus. These animals are carriers of the disease.

Causes

Chytridiomycosis is due to an infection with the B. dendrobatidis fungus. Generally, amphibians contract the fungus through their skin while in contaminated water.

Diagnosis

Veterinarians diagnose the disease by examining skin scrapings or toe clips that are stained and put under a light microscope. Placing an infected animal in a shallow dish of water will often confirm the sloughing of skin, a common symptom for chytridiomycosis.

Treatment

To treat chytridiomycosis, your veterinarian will prescribe antifungal medication, such as itraconazol, which is usually diluted and administered as a bath. Supplemental treatment may include ultraviolet light therapy.

Living and Management

For unknown reasons, chytrid infections have a high mortality rate. Therefore, it is important you follow your veterinarian's instructions and provide a clean aquatic environment and an appropriate temperature range for your amphibian.

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered straight to your e-mail inbox.

Related Categories:

small / exotic pet care

How to Bunny Proof Your Home

Rabbits are curious pets that not only need a lot of space to roam and explore outside of their cage but also tend to get into things they shouldn't. By bunny proofing your home, your rabbit can explore their domain without getting into trouble.

Flooring & Baseboards

Rabbits love to dig so expect that any ground surface that will allow them to do so will be dug. Unfortunately, for many bunny lovers, this means their carpeting is the victim of their bunny's behavior.

Area rugs, carpet, and carpet padding are all attractive digging items for your rabbit so if you have them in the room you designate for your rabbit's playtime or home, it is very likely that they will be ruined. If you are okay with this likely potential, then that's fine (just make sure they aren't actually eating what they dig up).

If you want to avoid the mess and possible fiber ingestion, choose a room for your bunny that has a non-porous, easy-to-clean surface instead. Linoleum, tile, and laminate flooring are popular choices for bunny owners since they can't be dug into, don't absorb urine, and won't stain.

Baseboards are another concern for chewing rabbits, namely all rabbits. Wooden baseboard corners and edges seem to scream to be chewed on by your rabbit. If these can be avoided in the room where your rabbit roams that is ideal, but if not, you should cover or protect the baseboards to avoid them being destroyed.

Some rabbit owners make custom baseboard protectors by using pieces of wood with hinges that stand up to block the boards. You can use wire and plastic storage cube pieces that snap together and lean up against the wall, short pieces of wooden fence pickets individually attached with removable adhesive pieces (i.e. Command™ strips) so they can be replaced as needed, and other creative protective options. Some people simply line the entire room with playpen sections to protect the walls, corners, doors, and baseboards. Plastic corner protectors that attach with adhesive are also useful for baseboard corners.

If you have carpeting that has been chewed or is especially vulnerable to being chewed (corners that lift up) try placing furniture, litter boxes (if your rabbit is litter box trained), area rugs, or mats meant to be chewed by rabbits on those spots. This will not only hide the area but potentially keep them from chewing it.

Doors

If you don't use metal baby gates to keep your rabbit contained, then you probably have wooden doors that do the job instead. Rabbits will chew the bottoms and corners of these doors so in order to protect them you can put a kick plate the very bottom of them. A kick plate can also be helpful in covering up previous rabbit damage on the bottom of a door. Also, be sure to remove the door stop if it is at the bunny's level and instead utilize one at the top of the door or install a door handle wall guard.

Electrical Cords and Outlets

Cords and wires are not only things that are hard to replace on lamps and electronics but they are also extremely dangerous to your bunny if they are chewed.

WARNING

Electrical shocks and burns are seen in rabbits that chew on wires. Death is possible from the initial electrocution or side effects of the damage it does to the mouth.

Make sure all electrical cords and wires are out of reach of your rabbit. Utilize ceiling lights whenever possible or keep lamps on a table. Protect cords with plastic cord protectors, flex tubing (corrugated plastic tubing), or PVC pipe if you absolutely cannot avoid a cord being in the room with your rabbit but you should do everything you can to keep your rabbit from having access to electrical cords. Use a baby electrical outlet plug to make sure your rabbit doesn't try to chew the outlet opening as well.

Furniture

Furniture legs are often the victims of rabbit teeth just like baseboards. They come in so many different shapes and sizes so you may have to get a little creative with coming up with an option to protect them. Flex tubing is a popular choice to slide onto furniture legs since it is flexible and comes in different diameters.

Large PVC piping is another protective option or you can use temporary chewing alternatives like toilet paper and paper towel tubes to slide onto thin table legs and provide your rabbit with something to shred. Other creative options include plastic flower pots, bed leg risers (turned upside down) or protectors (such as Bed Boots™), and plastic furniture corner protectors. You may have to make something to fit the furniture legs in your home if you can't find something to slide over them.

Plants

All plants should be off the ground and out of your rabbit's reach but ideally, the room your bunny frequents shouldn't have any houseplants at all. While there are some safe plants, some plants are toxic to rabbits if they eat them and potted plants will just be dug up and make a mess so there are really no good reasons to keep them where your bunny is.

Provide Chewing Options

The best thing you can really do to bunny proof any room is to make sure a variety of chewing options are available to your rabbit at all times. Of course, they will always chew what you don't want them to chew (unless you train them not to) but if they have things they can chew they will be less likely to chew a baseboard, door, or table leg.

Make Items Taste Bad to Your Bunny

Bitter sprays (such as Grannick's Bitter Apple spray) can also be a useful chewing deterrent for items you can't protect. Spray this regularly on fabric furniture, decor, area rug edges, and other items to help discourage your bunny from chewing them by making these items taste bad. There are also lotion or cream options if you need something other than a spray.

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered straight to your e-mail inbox.

Related Categories:

small animal care

Snake Fungal Disease (Ophidiomycosis)

Cause of Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

Ophidiomycosis, formerly referred to as Snake Fungal Disease (SFD), is caused by the fungus Ophidiomyces ophiodiicola. This fungus is thought to be an emergent pathogen in North America and poses a significant threat to snake health and population sustainability. To date, O. ophiodiicola has been documented in over 15 types of wild and captive snakes.

Significance of Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

Ophidiomycosis is an emerging disease that affects wild and captive snakes across North America. The incidence of Ophidiomycosis has steadily increased over the last few years, specifically documented in California, Oklahoma, Puerto Rico, and Idaho.

Species Affected by Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

Ophidiomycosis can infect wild or captive snakes and is the predominant cause of skin infections in wild snakes. It has been documented in over 15 types of wild and captive snakes. Species confirmed with diagnosis of Ophidiomycosis include— the eastern indigo snake, the northern water snake, the eastern racer, the rat snake, the timber rattlesnake, the massasauga, the pygmy rattlesnake, garter snakes, cottonmouth snakes, the milk snake, queensnake, and eastern fox snake. The fungus causing Ophidiomycosis is not known to affect humans.

Distribution of Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

As of November 2019, the fungus O. ophiodiicola has been found in at least 38 states, including recent findings in California, Idaho, Oklahoma. It is also present in one U.S. territory (Puerto Rico) and one Canadian Providence (Ontario). In some species (i.e., Eastern Massasauga) the mortality rate may be over 90% in the Eastern US.

Transmission of Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

At this time, it is not well understood how the fungus causing Ophidiomycosis is spread. It is likely that the pathogen is shed into the environment by infected snakes and spread from the environment to other snakes (i.e., snakes that share dens). O. ophiodiicola may be spread via vertical transmission (i.e., from dam to offspring). There is no evidence of horizontal transmission (i.e., snake-to-snake transmission) of O. ophiodiicola. Host and environmental factors that lead to disease remain largely unknown. For example, it is thought that Timber rattlesnake populations are at higher risk of Ophidiomycosis in years with higher rainfall.

Clinical Signs of Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

Clinical signs of SFD and the severity of the disease may vary by species. The most common clinical signs include accelerated ecdysis cycles, flaking and crusting of the scales/epidermis, displaced or discolored scales, granulomas, nodules, swelling or disfiguration of infected tissues. The disease may progress internally (via the eyes, throat, and/or lungs) and cause eye infections or pneumonia.

Diagnosis of Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

Ophidiomycosis is diagnosed by identification of the classic clinical signs in combination with either molecular detection (PCR or qPCR) of the fungus, histopathology, and/or a positive fungal culture.

It must be noted that there may be difficulty in sampling for and detecting (by PCR/qPCR) O. ophiodiicola by skin/epidermal swabs (i.e., low DNA quantity on the skin or the fungi are deep within the epidermis). Therefore, hesitation should be taken in assigning causation to O. ophiodiicola to animals with skin lesions that are qPCR negative in the presence of skin lesions. There are numerous causes of skin lesions in wild snakes (i.e., trauma, another pathogen causing skin lesions, etc). Conversely, the absence of clinical signs of ophidiomycosis is more reliable to eliminate a diagnosis of apparent ophidiomycosis.

Treatment of Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

Treatment with an antifungal, Terbinafine, either by a slow-release, long-lasting implant or nebulization has been found to reach therapeutic levels in cottonmouth snakes; methods and doses for treatment are thus based on these findings. Other treatment options include thermal and nutritional supportive therapy.

Management of Snake Fungal Disease / Ophidiomycosis

Ophidiomycosis appears to be negatively impacting several species and populations of snakes across North America. However, its long-term impact remains unknown. It is also very difficult to assess changing snake populations because of the solitary nature of many snakes and, importantly, the absence of long-term monitoring data for most species of snake. Any sightings of snakes with suspected SFD infection should be reported to the Northeast Wildlife Disease Cooperative and/or DTT Herp Disease Alert System for further investigation. Wildlife specialists, veterinarians, and any other individuals who routinely come in contact with wild snakes should keep gear, snake holding containers, and clothes clean and disinfected to prevent spreading the fungus to other snakes.

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered straight to your e-mail inbox.

Related Categories:

Small Animal Care

What to do if your pet rabbit is itching and scratching

Rabbits shouldn't scratch themselves any more than you would. If your pet rabbit seems excessively itchy and scratches a lot, it is likely a problem that needs to be addressed. Various issues—from mites to allergies—can cause a rabbit to itch and scratch, but fortunately, these are treatable!

Why Do Rabbits Itch and Scratch?

When an animal experiences severe itching and scratching, it's called pruritus. In a rabbit, it can be due to fur, skin, or ear parasites; dry skin; allergies; or infections. No matter the cause, it's important to take care of it right away for the sake of your rabbit's health and quality of life.

Fur Mites

Cheyletiella parasitivorax are microscopic mites that live in the fur of rabbits. Cheyletiella mites are blood-sucking parasites that bite your rabbit in order to feed, which causes it to itch and scratch.

Fur mites are also referred to as "walking dandruff," because they're often seen moving the dead skin around on rabbits, creating the appearance of mobile skin cells. They may start off in a small area on your rabbit, but if left untreated, they can spread all over its fur, into the environment in which they live, and to other rabbits and pets.

Even if your rabbit never goes outside, it can get fur mites from food or bedding that you bring into your home.

Lice

While not as common as some other parasites, lice do infest rabbits. They're species-specific, so humans and other non-rabbit pets can't get them.

Fleas

Many people don't think that rabbits can get fleas, but the reality is that any pet with fur can. Fleas, like fur mites, are blood-sucking parasites that bite rabbits, which, in turn, causes them to itch and scratch.

Female fleas lay up to 50 eggs every day, so even if you only see one or two adult fleas on your rabbit, they've probably already laid hundreds of eggs. Fleas also bite humans, but female fleas usually can't produce viable eggs when human blood is their only food source.

Indoor rabbits can get fleas just like outdoor rabbits. Other pets in the household can give your rabbit fleas and they can be tracked in from the outdoors. Fleas can also find their own way into homes just like other insects, such as ants.

A flea comb will help you find fleas and flea dirt. Flea dirt is the cylindrical feces that turn red if rubbed with a wet cotton swab. This is a good trick for distinguishing the digested blood from normal environmental dirt.

Dry Skin

Your rabbit may develop dry skin, which can make it itch and scratch. Rooms with very low humidity, dusty environments, poor diets, and bathing your rabbit too often or using inappropriate shampoos can all contribute to dry skin in your pet. If you can determine the cause of the dry skin, then you should be able to reverse it. For temporary relief, ask your vet to recommend a rabbit-safe spray product.

Ear Mites

Psoroptes cuniculiis are ear mites that cause itching and scratching. They can be spread from rabbit to rabbit, so wash your hands after handling a rabbit with itchy ears (and in general!). You may notice hair loss around the ears and/or scabs, or the rabbit's ears may look especially dirty. A head tilt, a flopped ear, and head shaking are all signs of an ear mite infestation, which doesn't always affect both ears. If you notice any of these signs, take your rabbit to see the veterinarian.

Allergies

Just like people, some rabbits are allergic to certain substances that cause them to itch and scratch. Usually, these allergies are environmental and not food-based, so you can make changes to bedding, litter, cleaning solutions, and air purifiers to make your rabbit more comfortable at home.

Common environmental allergens include the dust in certain litters or in the rabbit's hay, as well as laundry softeners and detergents used on blankets.

Rabbits can also be allergic to parasites such as fur mites and fleas. This will make an infestation of these pests even more irritating to your pet.

Skin Irritants

In addition to allergies, rabbits may be irritated by certain products, especially if they aren't meant for rabbits. Shampoos, conditioners, sprays, and air fresheners may all cause skin irritation in your rabbit. If you use a new product, such as a shampoo, and the next day your rabbit is itching, it may be because it was too harsh for your rabbit's skin. This is often the case with products meant for dogs that are used on rabbits.

Ringworm

Caused by two main types of organisms (Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Microsporum canis), ringworm is a fungal infection that causes hair loss, itching, and red "ringworm" lesions in rabbits. People can also contract ringworm from a rabbit.

The main cause of ringworm, as well as mites and fleas, is direct contact with an infected rabbit. When you bring a new rabbit into your home, keep it separate from your other rabbits until you're sure it doesn't have an infection. Rabbits can also contract ringworm from dirty environments and brushes that were used on an infected rabbit.

Skin Infections

Urine scald and feces that have remained in prolonged contact with your rabbit's skin and generally unclean environments may cause your rabbit to develop a skin infection. The infected area may become red, inflamed, and very itchy and should be treated right away.

Treating Itching and Scratching for Rabbits

The methods used to treat a rabbit's itching and scratching depend on the cause. However, a number of problems are solved through the same means.

• Fur mites are highly contagious to other rabbits. If you have other pets in your house and your rabbit is diagnosed with Cheyletiella mites, take care not to spread these parasites to other animals. Wash your hands after handling your rabbit and throw away the food and bedding in its cage.

• For fur and ear mites, lice, and fleas, freeze all unused food and bedding that you purchased from a pet store or online. The parasites can be brought into your home with such items, so freezing them before use is also a good way to prevent an infestation.

• If your exotics vet diagnoses your rabbit with mites, she will most likely prescribe a medication such as Selamectin, which will kill the infestation without harming your rabbit. Over-the-counter products are typically not safe for rabbits, and you should always consult your veterinarian prior to administering such products.

• If you find fleas or flea dirt on your rabbit, treat your rabbit and all the other furry pets in the household with a safe medication, just as you would for fur mites.4 You will also need to clean and treat the environment. Some rabbit owners use boric acid powder in their carpeting and various flea sprays and bombs sold at pet stores. If you choose to use these products, make sure your rabbit is out of the room you're treating for at least 24 hours.

• If your rabbit has environmental allergies, use fragrance-free fabric softeners and detergents meant for babies or sensitive skin to wash its blankets. If symptoms continue, look to other possible allergens in your rabbit's environment—for example, dust or pollen from an open window in spring or summer—and try to correct these.

• Ringworm is usually treated with topical ointments or oral medication prescribed by your exotics vet.

• Skin infections typically require prescription medications. An anti-itch spray is available that's safe to use on rabbits, but if the root of the problem isn't addressed, the spray merely provides temporary relief.

How to Prevent Itching and Scratching

Often, your rabbit's itchiness can be prevented by keeping its environment clean. The freezing recommendation for any rabbit supplies is an excellent place to begin as is the use of fragrance-free laundry products for any washable rabbit bedding.

Beyond these, be sure that your rabbit's cage is as clean as possible. Daily and weekly upkeep can make a significant difference in the health of your pet and prevent many skin infections. When bathing your rabbit, use only products designed specifically for rabbits.

It's also a good idea to regularly examine your rabbit's fur. This will help you to easily recognize any abnormalities and take treatment steps immediately, which can prevent an infestation, ear, or skin problem from getting worse.
At the same time, take precautions for any other pets in your home, using products such as flea preventives on a regular basis. Take care about exposing your rabbit to other animals that could transmit any of these issues as well, especially if it's kept outside or allowed to go outside.

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered straight to your e-mail inbox.

Related Categories:

small and exotic animal care