Disciplining Your Cat

You probably have a realistic expectation for your cat’s behavior. If it is occasionally doing something it isn’t supposed to do, you are probably not surprised by it. However, you may be wondering if it's okay to discipline a cat for consistently bad behavior.

Jumping on top of counters, chewing on wires, urinating outside of the litter box, and scratching household items that are not designed to be scratched are all common unwanted cat behaviors. Some of these behaviors are natural reactions to a cat’s environment, while others are simply bad habits. Regardless of what bad or unwanted behavior your cat is demonstrating, you probably want to stop it. Fortunately, that is entirely possible.

Train Your Cat

Cats are smarter than many people think and they have a great memory. Experts state that cats have both long-term and short-term memory, so they are trainable. At the same time, it also means they know what they can get away with repeatedly.

Pets, like people, react well to positive reinforcement, so cats will remember when they get something they enjoy. Most cats like attention, food, toys, or all three. Choose a motivator that you can use to entice your cat to do what you want it to do and to provide it with a form of positive reinforcement. If possible, reward your cat with this special item only when training for this particular behavior. By reserving the desirable item for training, it will add to the value of the reward and make it that much more enticing to your cat.

If you are struggling to find an item that your cat is motivated by, consider things like tuna, cheese, shrimp, and catnip toys. These may be items that your cat has never experienced before, so they may help in getting your cat’s attention.

Discourage Bad Behavior

Cats are much more receptive to rewards and treats than they are to punishment. But you can discourage bad behavior by trying a few tricks:

• Shake a noisy can: If you see your cat jump on the counters or somewhere it shouldn't be, shake a can with some pennies in it to startle your cat.

• Use deterrents: Some cats dislike citrus smells, red pepper flakes, and commercially available sprays designed to keep cats away from certain areas. There are also special sprays that taste bad to deter pets from chewing on things.

• Use a water spray bottle: No one, including cats, likes to be squirted with water. Try a quick spritz at your cat if they are somewhere or doing something they shouldn't be. It's likely that after a few times, just reaching for the spray bottle deters the bad behavior.

• Use double-sided tape or aluminum foil: These simple things can be placed on surfaces you don't want your cat on or scratching. Cats do not like the textures.

• Say something: Startle your cat with a loud "ouch" or another word to end any rough behavior. This is effective for cats that are aggressive with people and may bite or grab onto your arm or leg.

• Give a timeout: Gently put your cat in a bathroom or other room without any people in it for 20 minutes if it is misbehaving. Quite often, it will emerge from the room with a different attitude.

Encourage Good Behavior

Whenever possible, give treats, praise, and attention to your cat if it is behaving nicely. If you notice it lying next to something it used to chew, reward it. If you notice it scratching the scratching pole instead of your sofa, reward it. Your cat will quickly learn the difference between good and bad behavior.

Problems and Proofing Behavior

It is important that you never physically hurt your cat. This includes spanking, hitting, kicking, or hurting your cat intentionally. Attempting to teach a cat a lesson through physical means does not work and can actually lead to more disruptive, even aggressive, behavior.

Do not scruff your cat. This is no longer recommended as a method of restraint or transport for adult cats. Scruffing is painful and when you cause a misbehaving cat pain, it will only further exacerbate an issue. It is also thought that what appeared to be relaxation for some cats who are scruffed is actually fear paralysis.

An alternative to grabbing a cat by the scruff is putting a blanket over it and scooping the cat up inside it. This will keep you and the cat safe and allow you to transport the cat without stressing it out further.

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6 Tips for Caring for a Senior Cat

With good care and luck, our cats can live well into their late teens, and even their twenties. But as cats age, their physical and behavioral needs change.

While these changes are obvious as your kitten matures into an adult cat, the changes when your cat transitions from an adult to a senior—starting at 11 years old—can be harder to spot.

Here are the top six ways to care for aging cats.

Tip 1: Pay Extra Attention to Your Senior Cat’s Diet

Senior cats have unique dietary and behavioral needs. It is more important than ever for your cat to be a healthy weight to maintain optimum health.

Talk to your veterinarian about how and when to transition your cat to food that's specific to senior cats. Your veterinarian will help you assess your cat’s optimum weight and can recommend a senior food to help maintain, lose, or gain weight.

A cat’s digestion is also improved by feeding them small, frequent meals throughout the day and night. Measure your cat’s daily food and distribute it in small portions.

You can use tools like hunting feeders and puzzle toys that promote physical and mental engagement at mealtime as well.

Tip 2: Increase Your Cat’s Access to Water

As cats age, they are prone to constipation and kidney disease, especially if they are not staying hydrated enough.

Increase your senior cat’s water intake by providing canned food and more options for drinking water.

As your cat gets older, they might not be able to jump up on to counters or access the usual water dish. Add more water stations around the house with plenty of bowls and/or pet water fountains to entice your senior cat to drink more.

Tip 3: Keep an Eye Out for the Subtle Signs of Pain in Cats

Cats are masters at hiding their pain. As many as nine out of 10 senior cats show evidence of arthritis when X-rayed, yet most of us with senior cats have no idea.

The most important thing you can do to prevent the pain from arthritis is to keep your cat at a healthy weight. As little as a pound or two of excess weight can significantly increase the pain of sore joints.

Your veterinarian can help you with a long-term plan to help control your cat’s pain with medicine, supplements, and alternative treatments, like acupuncture, physical therapy, and laser treatments.

Tip 4: Don’t Neglect Your Cat’s Dental Health

Dental disease is very common in aging cats. Cats can get painful holes in their teeth, broken teeth, gum disease, and oral tumors that significantly affect their quality of life.

Infections in the mouth enter the bloodstream and can slowly affect the liver, kidneys, and heart. So paying attention to your cat’s dental health is essential to caring for them during their senior years.

Often, there is no clear sign of dental disease. Cat parents see weight loss and a poor hair coat as the vague signs of aging, not an indication of a potential problem.

A thorough veterinary exam and routine dental care can drastically improve your cat’s quality of life, and can even extend their lifespan.

Tip 5: Give Senior Cats Daily Exercise and Mental Stimulation

Environmental enrichment is an essential part of your cat’s quality of life.

All cats need places to climb, places to hide, things to scratch, and ways to hunt and play. All of these things will help your cat stay physically and mentally stimulated as well as healthy.

However, as your cat ages, providing these things may require some extra thought. Your cat’s mobility may become more limited, so you will need to make your home more accessible so that it’s easier on their older joints.

For example, a carpeted cat ramp can act as a scratching post as well as a climbing aid for cats with arthritis. A covered cat bed can give aging cats a cozy, warm place to hide that also helps to soothe sore joints and muscles. You can move their food and water bowls to more accessible locations on the ground instead of on tables or counters.

Tip 6: Don’t Skimp on Biannual Vet Visits

Finally, and most importantly, maintaining a good relationship with your veterinarian is critical when discussing care and quality of life for your cat in their senior years. Ideally, cats over 11 years of age should see the veterinarian every six months.

Blood work done during these visits can detect the onset of health issues—like kidney disease—while there’s still time to make medical changes that will improve and extend your cat’s life.

Weighing your cat twice a year will also show trends in weight loss or gain that can be valuable clues to overall health changes. And oral exams will detect dental disease before it negatively impacts your cat’s health.

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How much and how often should I feed my dog?

Do you feel guilty eating three yummy meals a day plus snacks while your dog just gets one or two scoops of dry kibble?

It doesn’t have to be that way.

There are several healthy ways to feed your dog, depending on its individual needs. Here are the top three:

1. Let Your Dog Decide

For dogs who are at a healthy weight and aren’t having accidents in the house, you may be able to use the free-choice feeding method.

This means you leave food out all day and let your dog graze. This can be a good method for highly active dogs that are burning more calories than their couch-potato friends.

If you are leaving food out all day for your dog to nibble on, use dry food, which won’t spoil.

If you have a nursing dog, she will probably be fed by the free-choice method. Dogs who are nursing need many calories to produce a constant flow of milk for their pups.

Downsides: Leaving dog food out all day could attract insects, rodents, or raccoons. That’s especially the case if you feed your dog outside, so be on the lookout.

And if you have more than one pet, they may bicker over the food. Also, this method is not for dogs that are diabetic.

2. Control Portions

For the dog who would never stop eating, use the portion control method. First, ask your vet what your dog’s ideal weight is. If you are using commercial dog food, feed your dog the amount printed on the bag that fits with your dog’s ideal weight. Sometimes, however, the suggested amount is more than your dog needs. Your veterinarian can calculate the exact amount to feed.

You can feed your dog one or two times a day. It’s best to do it twice daily at 8-12 hour intervals. If you’re doing it this way, split the suggested amount found on the bag or you’ll feed your pet double what they need.

3. Watch the Clock

If you’re not worried about your dog over-eating but don’t want to leave the food out all day, use the timed feeding method. This means you give the dog a certain amount of time, like 30 minutes, to eat. When time’s up, put away what your dog hasn't eaten.

When you offer food again 8-12 hours later, your dog will be hungry and ready to eat.

What about treats?

Dog treats should make up 5%–10% or less of your dog’s daily diet. Ask your vet about the number of treats this means for your dog. It’ll vary based on your dog's weight and activity level.

If you need to use treats frequently for training, use very small pieces. You can also set aside some of your dog's daily portion of kibbles to use as “treats” when you train.

My dog is in-shape but is always hungry.

Using the guidelines on a commercial pet food label should be a starting point for deciding how much to feed your dog. If your dog seems hungry all the time, you may need to feed them more. Beware that some dogs will always seem hungry and are already overweight. Speak with your veterinarian for the best food options to keep your pup feeling full for longer.

The amount of food your dog needs may change if:

• Your dog becomes more active or is pregnant or nursing.

• The weather is very hot or cold.

• Your dog is recovering from surgery or an infection.

Before giving your dog more food, make sure they are not merely looking for attention and love. And if they are— serve that up instead.

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What to expect after your pet's vaccination

It is common for pets to experience some or all of the following mild side effects after receiving a vaccine, usually starting within hours of the vaccination. If these side effects last for more than a day or two or cause your pet significant discomfort, it is important for you to contact your veterinarian:

• Discomfort and local swelling at the vaccination site

• Mild fever

• Decreased appetite and activity

• Sneezing, mild coughing, "snotty nose" or other respiratory signs may occur 2-5 days after your pet receives an intranasal vaccine

A small, firm swelling under the skin may develop at the site of a recent vaccination. It should start to disappear within a couple of weeks. If it persists more than three weeks or seems to be getting larger, you should contact your veterinarian.

Always inform your veterinarian if your pet has had prior reactions to any vaccine or medication. If in doubt, wait for 30-60 minutes following vaccination before taking your pet home.

More serious, but less common side effects, such as allergic reactions, may occur within minutes to hours after vaccination. These reactions can be life-threatening and are medical emergencies.

Seek veterinary care immediately if any of these signs develop:

• Persistent vomiting or diarrhea

• Itchy skin that may seem bumpy ("hives")

• Swelling of the muzzle and around the face, neck, or eyes

• Severe coughing or difficulty breathing

• Collapse

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Introducing a New Cat to Your Family Dog

Whether you already have a dog and are considering getting a cat, or vice versa, it is very important to think about their first introduction. By letting a loose cat and an off-leash dog meet each other in an open room for the first time, you are probably setting up both animals to fail. Instead, plan ahead and take your time.

Matching cats & dogs

• If you’re thinking of getting a cat for your dog or a dog for your cat, it’s important to consider both animals’ personalities. It may be helpful to look for a companion that has already been exposed to the other species in the past.

• If a dog attempts to aggressively chase, pin, pick up or otherwise “manhandle” any cat, it is best to not even consider getting a cat — or at least to proceed with caution. Additionally, a dog who growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at a cat would probably do best in a cat-free environment. Likewise, a cat who growls, swats at, runs from or hides from dogs would probably prefer to not live with a dog.

• If a dog loves chasing things, then a fearful, shy cat who runs away probably wouldn’t be the best choice, as it could trigger the dog to chase. Similarly, an energetic cat who runs and pounces would fall into this same category. A better match here would be a calm, confident cat who will not run (in fear or play).

• If a dog plays roughly, it is best to avoid kittens or elderly cats who can easily be hurt. Instead, stick to playful adults who are interested in play, but are also confident enough to take care of themselves. If a cat is rambunctious or playful, a dog that is playful, but gentle, could be a great option.

• If a dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten or otherwise bother the other pet.

The introduction process

Regardless of whether you are getting a new cat or a new dog, the first introduction between your current pet and your new pet is a very important part of the process. Here are four steps that can help you ensure a successful meeting:

STEP 1: CHOOSE THE PROPER LOCATION FOR THE FIRST MEETING

• Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog, you should not take your cat to meet them at a shelter, or another establishment which houses a number of animals for health and safety reasons. Instead, the introduction should take place at home.

• Resident dog to new cat: If you are adopting a cat, do not take your dog into a shelter and expose them to the cats, as this can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Instead, ask the shelter’s adoption counselors whether they have any dog-savvy, confident cats they will allow to meet your dog under controlled conditions. If this is not possible, an alternative would be to have your dog meet a dog-savvy cat who belongs to a friend or relative. As a last resort, you can bring your new kitty home and do an introduction at home.

STEP 2: SEPARATE THE ANIMALS

• Across a few days, rotate which animal has the freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent.

• Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if they can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.

• If the dog obsessively digs at the separation barrier or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional.

• When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

• Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.

STEP 3: MAKE LEASHED INTRODUCTIONS

• Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed.

• Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat, and the cat is calm, eating, and using the litter box normally.

• If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer.

• Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.

• When no one is home, the dog or cat should be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

STEP 4: ALLOW UNSUPERVISED INTERACTIONS

Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.

TRAINING TIP:

If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract the dog and get the dog to look away with treats, a happy voice, or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If the dog takes it, repeat this process until the dog is no longer focused on the cat or door.

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