Tips For Bringing Home a New Rescue Dog

Bringing home a shelter dog that you adopt may be a rescued stray or a dog that someone has voluntarily surrendered for adoption. Once a stray, a rescued canine is a special animal that needs time and space, patience, and understanding.

The first few days in your home are special and critical for a pet. Your new dog will be confused about where they are and what to expect from you. Setting up some clear structure with your family for your dog will be paramount in making as smooth a transition as possible.

Bringing a pup home, they need more than just a bed and a food bowl to thrive. They also need constant care and attention. While a pup's first night at home may require a lot of work initially, it’s well worth the effort down the road. Establishing good habits in those first weeks will lay the groundwork for a lifetime of happiness for you and your dog. Remember, you have a responsibility to help your pup grow into a happy and healthy dog. Here are some tips to help first-time dog owners get started:

Before You Bring Your Dog Home

• Determine where your dog will be spending most of their time. Because your new dog will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from a shelter or foster home to your house), they may forget any housebreaking (if any) they've learned. Often a kitchen or tiled-space will work best for easy clean-up.

• If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home.

• Dog-proof the area where your dog will spend most of their time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.

• Training your dog will start the first moment you have them. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn their commands more quickly and easily.

• Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that they have an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If your pet is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip’s company, if the rescue or shelter did not already do so.

The First Few Days

• We know moving is stressful — and your new dog feels the same way! Give them time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing them to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming them.

• When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when they were fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new.

• On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having them in a safe place will make the trip home easier for them and you.

• Once home, take them to their toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with them so they will get used to the area and relieve themselves. Even if your dog does relieve themselves during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds can throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case.

• From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting, and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort them if they whine when left alone. Instead, give them attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly.

• For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, but it will also give you more one-on-one time to get to know them and their likes/dislikes.

• If your rescue came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled-up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs, and sticks are just some of the pieces of “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect. Or maybe they led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.

• Keep your pup off balconies, elevated porches, and decks. Keep all cleaning supplies, detergents, bleach, and other chemicals and medicines out of the pup's reach, preferably on high shelves. Remove poisonous houseplants, such as amaryllis, mistletoe, holly, or poinsettia, or keep them in hanging baskets up high, where your puppy cannot reach them.

• Keep toilet lids closed, unplug electrical cords and remove them from the floor, and keep plastic bags and ribbons out of your pup's reach.

In The Following Weeks:

• People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog may be a bit uneasy at first as they get to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of them as well as what they can expect from you.

• After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language to be sure they are having a good time and is not fearful (or a dog park bully).

• To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time, and attention they need. You’ll be bonded in no time.

• If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles.

• Bring your dog to the veterinarian for regular checkups. Talk to your veterinarian about any signs of illness that you should watch out for during your pup's first few months, especially if they are under a year old.

• Ensure your dog receives proper nutrition. Just like a child, your dog also needs complete and balanced nutrition to help them grow properly. In fact, the first year of your pet's life is critical in ensuring the proper growth of their bones, teeth, muscles, and fur. As a growing animal, they will require more calories than an adult dog. Speak with your veterinarian for the best feeding schedule and diet and nutrition for your pet. Never feed your dog bones, table scraps, or big snacks in between meals.

Related Topics:

• Tips for Involving Your Kids With Dog Training

• How to stop your dog from destructive chewing

• How to train your dog to walk on a loose leash

• Before You Adopt: Good Signs of Health

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dog health

Introducing a New Cat to Your Family Dog

Whether you already have a dog and are considering getting a cat, or vice versa, it is very important to think about their first introduction. By letting a loose cat and an off-leash dog meet each other in an open room for the first time, you are probably setting up both animals to fail. Instead, plan ahead and take your time.

Matching cats & dogs

• If you’re thinking of getting a cat for your dog or a dog for your cat, it’s important to consider both animals’ personalities. It may be helpful to look for a companion that has already been exposed to the other species in the past.

• If a dog attempts to aggressively chase, pin, pick up or otherwise “manhandle” any cat, it is best to not even consider getting a cat — or at least to proceed with caution. Additionally, a dog who growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at a cat would probably do best in a cat-free environment. Likewise, a cat who growls, swats at, runs from or hides from dogs would probably prefer to not live with a dog.

• If a dog loves chasing things, then a fearful, shy cat who runs away probably wouldn’t be the best choice, as it could trigger the dog to chase. Similarly, an energetic cat who runs and pounces would fall into this same category. A better match here would be a calm, confident cat who will not run (in fear or play).

• If a dog plays roughly, it is best to avoid kittens or elderly cats who can easily be hurt. Instead, stick to playful adults who are interested in play, but are also confident enough to take care of themselves. If a cat is rambunctious or playful, a dog that is playful, but gentle, could be a great option.

• If a dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten or otherwise bother the other pet.

The introduction process

Regardless of whether you are getting a new cat or a new dog, the first introduction between your current pet and your new pet is a very important part of the process. Here are four steps that can help you ensure a successful meeting:

STEP 1: CHOOSE THE PROPER LOCATION FOR THE FIRST MEETING

• Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog, you should not take your cat to meet them at a shelter, or another establishment which houses a number of animals for health and safety reasons. Instead, the introduction should take place at home.

• Resident dog to new cat: If you are adopting a cat, do not take your dog into a shelter and expose them to the cats, as this can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Instead, ask the shelter’s adoption counselors whether they have any dog-savvy, confident cats they will allow to meet your dog under controlled conditions. If this is not possible, an alternative would be to have your dog meet a dog-savvy cat who belongs to a friend or relative. As a last resort, you can bring your new kitty home and do an introduction at home.

STEP 2: SEPARATE THE ANIMALS

• Across a few days, rotate which animal has the freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent.

• Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if they can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.

• If the dog obsessively digs at the separation barrier or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional.

• When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

• Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.

STEP 3: MAKE LEASHED INTRODUCTIONS

• Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed.

• Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat, and the cat is calm, eating, and using the litter box normally.

• If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer.

• Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.

• When no one is home, the dog or cat should be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

STEP 4: ALLOW UNSUPERVISED INTERACTIONS

Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.

TRAINING TIP:

If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract the dog and get the dog to look away with treats, a happy voice, or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If the dog takes it, repeat this process until the dog is no longer focused on the cat or door.

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Introducing a New Cat to Your Family Cat

So you're considering adding a new feline friend to your home? Some people say cats are like chips — you can’t have just one! Whether your current cat is lonely, their companion cat recently passed away, or you simply love cats—it is important to take a few precautions to ensure that your cat-to-cat introductions go as smoothly as possible.

Finding a Cat

We always recommend adopting a cat from a local animal shelter. Millions of amazing cats enter animal shelters each year, and yet 71 percent are euthanized because there are simply not enough homes for them. A wide variety of cat breeds, sizes, colors, and personalities can be found at any animal shelter, which gives you a lot of options to choose from. Most shelters also have information about each cat’s personality and background, which increases your chances of success.

We recommend not purchasing from pet stores, as the cats there are no “better” than the homeless animals you’ll find at your local shelter, and they may have come from purebred parents who are kept in inappropriate conditions or not have been given the same amount of veterinary care as shelter cats.

If you are committed to finding a specific breed of cat, be sure to find a reputable breeder to deal with.

Adult or kitten?

If you have your heart set on a kitten, wait it out until “kitten season”, as shelters are often inundated with homeless kittens in the springtime. Keep in mind that in just a few short months that adorable kitten will look just like an adult. Meanwhile, adopting an adult cat, you will be able to assess more about their fundamental personality than you will be able to for a kitten, which could improve your chances of success.

Consider your current cat

Perhaps the most important step in adding another cat to your home is careful consideration of the resident cat’s personality. Features such as looks, size, breed, gender or any quality other than personality are not factors that should weigh heavily in the decision. Instead, focus primarily on personality matching:

• If you have a very laid-back, elderly or frail kitty at home, it is best to avoid kittens and very playful or rambunctious cats.

• If you have a rambunctious cat who zooms all over the house, getting a very laid-back or quiet, shy cat is probably not wise.

Try to focus on cats who have personalities similar to that of your current cat.

The introduction process

By planning ahead and taking things slowly, your chances of success when introducing cats are much greater. If you rush into things and attempt to “force” a relationship, you might inadvertently sabotage a relationship that could have otherwise worked out. Here are six steps that can help you ensure a successful introduction:

Step one: Start by trading scents

Once you have selected a potential new cat, ask the shelter or breeder if you can take home a blanket the cat has slept on to give to your resident kitty. Also prepare a blanket from home that your resident kitty has slept on, to give to your new cat. If you can exchange the cats’ scents with one another, you will be introducing a very important identification and communication signal right off the bat.

Step two: Prepare a separate room

• Some cats can be dropped into the middle of a new home and adapt just fine, with everything working out between the kitties. However, such an approach can also end in disaster, injuries, or a failed adoption. Before bringing your new cat home, we recommend:

• Find a quiet room in your house (a bedroom or bathroom) where you can keep the new cat safely separated from the resident cat for a few days.

• Make sure it is a room where the resident cat has been, that it can be easily accessed by all human family members for social interactions and playtime, and that it is set up with food, water, litter, toys and soft beds.

• Choose a room that has an inch or two of space under the door for feline introductions.

Step three: Feed them on opposite sides of the door

Place both cats’ dishes close to the door, on their respective sides. If one of the cats refuses to eat, you can feed them elsewhere, but still place dishes of tuna or some other tasty snack on either side of the door. By having both cats experience something positive (a meal or yummy snack) while they are nearby, they can learn to form positive associations with each other.

If either cat is growling or hissing at the other through the door, do not put them together anytime soon; take things very slowly and continue feeding this way. If the problems continue for several days, it is likely the match is not going to work out.

Step four: Exchange scents around the house

If both cats are eating well, and appear calm and relaxed on their respective sides of the door, then it’s time for the big scent exchange:

The resident cat should now be confined in the room, while the new cat is allowed to roam the house. Each cat should use the other cat’s (cleaned!) litter box, food and water dishes, beds and toys, so the only thing being exchanged is the cats themselves.

Continue to feed both cats close to their respective sides of the door.

While the new cat is exploring your home, you may want to close bedroom and bathroom doors at first so the new cat doesn't feel overwhelmed. Over the course of a few days, open a door or two at a time and increase the amount of space the new cat has access to.

If either cat appears stressed, nervous, or fearful, you might want to do the exchange described above multiple times, for example:

The new cat spends a few days in the room, then a few in the house, then back in the room — while the resident cat is in the opposite location. This can help ensure lots of scent exchange and desensitization.

Step five: Let them make visual contact

If everything seems to be going well, and everyone is acting, eating and using the litter box normally, you’re doing great! The next step is to open the separating door, but keep a gate of some sort across it so they can see, smell, and have contact with each other. The gate should prevent complete access. (A baby gate is perfect, but usually not high enough for cats, so you may need to stack two on top of each other.)

Continue feeding both cats on their respective sides of the door, and continue switching them back and forth.

Step six: Allow them to meet

If everything seems fine, and everyone is acting, eating and using the litter box normally, then it’s time to take down the gates.

There may be some hissing or swatting, but cats often will work things out by themselves. If there is a fight in which one of the cats is traumatized or injured (and you have followed all of the above steps), then the match will likely not work out.

If the cats seem to tolerate, ignore, enjoy, or interact with each other – that’s great news!

Leaving Cats Alone Together

It’s a good idea to separate the cats at first when you will not be around to supervise them. You want to ensure that you see all their interactions and know exactly what is going on. After you feel that the cats are getting along, you can ease up on this step.

Getting another cat will have a big impact on your resident cat, so consider your decision carefully, and introducing them properly is the right thing to do. Good luck!

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Cat Adoption Checklist

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Thinking of adopting a cat or looking to help clear the shelters? Check out these helpful tips first!

If you’re thinking about adopting a cat, consider taking home two.

Cats require exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction. Two cats can provide this for each other. Plus they’ll provide more benefits to you. Cats’ purring has been shown to soothe humans as well as themselves – and they have an uncanny ability to make us smile. A great place to start your search is online. Sites like petfinder.com let you search numerous shelters in your area simultaneously to help narrow your search and more quickly find the match that’s right for you and your new feline friend (or friends!).

Find a cat whose personality meshes with yours.

Just as we each have our own personality, so do cats. In general, cats with long hair and round heads and bodies are more easygoing than lean cats with narrow heads and short hair, who are typically more active. Because they work with the felines day in and day out, speak with an adoption counselor, who can best offer advice to help you match the cat’s personality with your own.

Schedule a vet visit within the first few days following the adoption.

You’ll want to take any medical records you received from the adoption center on your first visit. Kittens, in particular, should be socialized in the clinic prior to the exam to familiarize their vet with experiences outside of exams and have more positive associations.

Make sure everyone in the house is prepared to have a cat before it comes home.

Visiting the shelter or animal control facility should be a family affair. When adopting a new cat with existing pets at home, discuss with the adoption facility how to make a proper introduction.

Budget for the short- and long-term costs of a cat.

Understand any pet is a responsibility and there’s a cost associated with that. A cat adopted from a shelter is a bargain; many facilities will have already provided spaying or neutering, initial vaccines, and a microchip for permanent identification.

Stock up on supplies before the cat arrives.

Be prepared so your new cat can start feeling at home right away. Your cat will need a litter box, cat litter, food and water bowls, food, scratching posts, safe and stimulating toys, a cushy bed, a brush for grooming, a toothbrush, and nail clippers.

Cat-proof your home.

A new cat will quickly teach you not to leave things lying out. Food left on the kitchen counter will serve to teach your new friend to jump on counters for a possible lunch. Get rid of loose items your cat might chew on, watch to ensure the kitten isn’t chewing on electric cords, and pick up random items like paper clips (which kittens may swallow).

Go slowly when introducing your cat to new friends and family.

It can take several weeks for a cat to relax in a new environment. It’s a great idea to keep the new addition secluded to a single room (with a litter box, food and water, toys, and the cat carrier left out and open with bedding inside) until the cat is used to the new surroundings; this is particularly important if you have other pets. If you’ve adopted a kitten, socialization is very important. But remember – take it slow.

Be sure to include your new pet in your family’s emergency plan.

You probably have a plan in place for getting your family to safety in case of an emergency. Adjust this plan to include your pets. Add phone numbers for your veterinarian and closest 24-hour animal hospital to your “in-case-of-emergency” call list.

If you’re considering giving a cat as a gift, make sure the recipient is an active participant in the adoption process.

Though well-meaning, the surprise kitty gift doesn’t allow for a “get-to know-one-another” period. Remember, adopting a cat isn’t like purchasing a household appliance or a piece of jewelry – this is a real living, breathing, and emotional being.

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Related: We have more information under our cat health category.