Let's talk about cat poop!

Healthy Poop in Cats

How often should a cat 'go'?

The general rule of thumb is that a cat should poop at least once a day. However, the frequency of your cat's bowel movements is affected by multiple factors including the age (i.e. kittens defecate more often than adults), diet, exercise, and health status (i.e. IBD, hyperthyroidism, parasites, CKD).

Because of this, the exact frequency of the bowel movement will be individual, and you should monitor for its fluctuations instead. If your cat's bowel movements start to differ from the normal frequency for longer than a day or two, it is advisable to pay a visit to the vet and resolve the cause of the change.

What does healthy poop look like?

Healthy cat poop should be deep brown in color (but not too dark nor black) and malleable in consistency (similar to modeling clay; it should be firm enough to leave little to no residue on the ground when picked up, yet pliable and not too hard). Poop should be passed in one piece or a few smaller pieces of somewhat cylindrical shape and segmented appearance. The odor shouldn't be too foul, although this can be variable.

Unhealthy Poop in Cats

The key signs to look out for in your cat's poop are the consistency, shape and color. The stool's consistency is directly influenced by the amount of moisture in it, which gives you an insight into the colonic health. The colon (or the large intestine) reabsorbs the remaining water and other key nutrients from the indigestible material, thus solidifying this material into the firm stool. The consistency of the stool can be descriptively scored to help you recognize if your cat's stool is healthy.

A comprehensive fecal scoring guide was described by Purina. According to Purina's guide, the consistency of the healthy stool can be scored on the scale from 1 to 7. The healthy stool (as described above) is scored with 2, while the stool that is too hard and dry is scored with 1. Scores from 3 to 7 are reserved for moist, mushy or liquid stools.

Hard stool (score 1) is typically a sign of constipation, which can be associated with dehydration, colon obstruction or certain metabolic and neurological conditions. Thus, if you notice that your cat is passing poop that is too hard in consistency, you should pay a visit to the vet and address the issue. The hard poop is passed in smaller, more spherical pellets which leave no residue on the ground, and the passing itself requires more effort.

Soft, mushy or liquid stools (scores 3-7) can be a sign of bacterial infections, intestinal parasites, or food intolerance. If your cat's poop is moist on the surface, thus leaving residue on the ground, but retains the shape and form when picked up, then its consistency can be scored with 3. This poop has little to no visible segmentation, but is not considered to be an alarming sign.

If the poop is so moist that it feels saggy and it loses form when picked up (but does retain a logged shape when passed), then the consistency can be scored with 4. Furthermore, if the stool is passed in a pile rather than the logs, then it is scored with 5. If your cat passes liquid stool with texture but no shape, then the consistency is scored with 6. Liquid stool without any texture nor shape is scored with 7.

Soft or fluid stool (as described by the scores 4-7), accompanied by a more frequent bowel movement, are referred to as diarrhea. While the causes for diarrhea are variable and often multi-factorial, this state is considered to be an important, sign of underlying problems and is a legitimate reason to consult with your vet. Sometimes, diarrhea can be caused by stress (i.e. moving to a new environment or bringing in a new pet), or food allergies and intolerance.

Other times, however, diarrhea can be a symptom of a disease, a bacterial infection, or even intestinal parasites. If your cat is suffering from diarrhea, make sure to closely monitor the frequency on your cat's bowel movement, so you can report it to your veterinarian. Keep an eye on other signs of disease and injury and the changes in your cat's behavior. This will be key for the diagnosis of the underlying cause.

Contact your veterinarian ASAP after spotting the symptoms, especially if diarrhea persists for more than two days and is accompanied by lack of appetite, lethargy, or vomiting. The veterinarian will diagnose the underlying cause and help you design a special recovery diet for your cat until it recovers.

The stool is a direct insight into its colonic health. It can help you recognize if your cat is eating the right diet and drinking enough water or if it's suffering from certain health problems. So, the next time you clean the litter box, make sure to quickly inspect if your cat's poop is healthy! A healthy cat is a happy cat.

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Why Do Some Cats Eat Plastic?

It’s in a cat’s nature to chew, but chewing on plastic can be dangerous.

Many cats find joy in non-toy objects. We have all probably heard that cats love to play in paper bags, and if you are reading this, you have undoubtedly seen photos shared on social media sites with cats curled up in cardboard boxes. A bit less predictable and a little more esoteric, however: eating plastic.

The real danger here is many cats end up eating the plastic and getting blocked along their GI tract, requiring surgery. If your cat does eat any plastic, we would recommend taking this behavior seriously and attempting to address it quickly.

Cat’s Drive for Plastic: A Compulsive Disorder?

You may be familiar with the medical term pica: the eating of non-food objects.

Sometimes it is believed the pet is attempting to fill a nutritional void, but in cases where the pet relentlessly seeks one particular type of object, it may be an obsession and not a nutrition deficit. Pica in cats can be caused by a number of conditions, including gut disease, feline leukemia virus (FeLV), feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), anemia, obsessive compulsive disorder, dental disease, and hyperthyroidism to name a few. A vet visit is always a wise place to start.

Eating plastic doesn’t automatically qualify as a compulsive behavior in some cats because they seem to like the way the plastic tastes or feels more than that they “need” to be doing this. For this reason, jumping to behavior-modifying drugs is not typically recommending for cats that seem to be strongly driven to explore and chew specific tastes and textures.

If your veterinarian explores the potential cause for plastic-seeking behavior and believes it points to a compulsive disorder, behavior-modifying drugs such as fluoxetine (generic Prozac) may be a consideration.

Non-Medical Therapy for Plastic Eating Cats

Providing multiple opportunities for hunting and play games, cat manipulation toys with food stuffed inside for foraging and eating, feeding both canned food and unique orally stimulating food, and offering dog chew toys as an alternative may help. Chew items such as rawhide chews, Nylabones, cat grass, and softer dead animal parts that are available as chews for dogs (e.g. lambs’ ears) can help. Make sure that there is also adequate aerobic play to keep the inquisitive cat busy and reward-based training to help satiate intelligent cats.

Ultimately, if the problem continues, the most extremely-affected plastic-seeking cats may need to be confined or housed in a cat-proofed room at times when supervision is not possible to protect them from foreign object ingestion.

Some cats just like to eat plastic. Cats have liked stranger things; bleach? New shoes? Your hair?

Has your cat ever eaten something strange? Leave us a comment below.

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How can you tell when a cat is in pain?

Assessing pain is a complicated challenge, especially in cats. Pain has two primary components: the sensory aspect (intensity, location and duration) and the affective aspect (emotional toll).

Because pain assessment is somewhat subjective, veterinarians constantly try to create tools that make this process more objective. For validity, any pain measuring tool should take into consideration both characteristics: the sensory and the affective.

Signs of pain in cats

A British study was recently conducted in order to reach a consensus about criteria when evaluating pain in cats. Ultimately, 25 signs were considered to be reliable and sensitive for indicating pain in cats, across a range of different clinical conditions:

Top 5 Signs:

• Appetite decrease

• Avoiding bright areas

• Growling

• Groaning

• Eyes closed

Other signs included: Lameness, difficulty jumping, abnormal gait, reluctant to move, reaction to touch, withdrawing/hiding, absence of grooming, playing less, overall activity decrease, less rubbing toward people, general mood, temperament, hunched up posture, shifting of weight, licking a particular body region, lower head posture, eyelids tightly shut, change in form of feeding behavior, straining to urinate, tail flicking

The top 5 signs are indicative of severe pain. Behavioral changes, such as irritability, tend to be seen with more long-term pain. The other signs can be observed with less intense pain. All of these signs cover both the sensorial and the emotional aspects of pain.

What if you see these signs of pain in your cat?

Cat owners should be aware of these signs. It is easy to mistakenly attribute behavioral changes, such as absence of grooming or playing less, as signs of aging; they can actually be signs of pain.

Remember, the presence of any single one of these 25 signs means pain. If you see any of these signs in your cat, see your veterinarian right away. Also remember that the absence of a sign does not mean your cat is no pain.

These signs may help both vets and cat guardians better assess the pain status of cats in their care.

While it can be fairly easy to recognize severe pain, it is much more difficult to detect low grade pain. The criteria above are a great start. Hopefully, this research will spark more studies to help us assess mild pain in cats as well to ensure their well-being.

If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian— they are your best resource to ensure the health and well-being of your pets.

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Trimming a cat's claws

Trimming a cat's claws every few weeks is an important part of maintaining your pet's health. Not only does a quick trim protect you, your pet, and your family, it can also save your sofa, curtains, and other furniture. Nail-trimming is also a fast and effective alternative to declawing, which involves surgical amputation and can cause behavioral and health issues.

If the idea of trimming a cat's claws has you biting your nails, know that all it takes is some patience and a bit of practice to sharpen your skills.

Staying on the cutting edge

There are plenty of tools available to trim a cat's claws; use the one that works best for you and your pet.

Some people prefer a special pair of scissors modified to hold a cat's claw in place, others prefer human nail clippers and still others choose plier-like clippers or those with a sliding "guillotine" blade. Whatever your tool, be sure the blade remains sharp; the blunt pressure from dull blades may hurt an animal and cause a nail to split or bleed. Keep something on hand to stop bleeding, such as styptic powder, cornstarch, or a dry bar of soap (to rub the bleeding nail across).

Take paws

If you approach a cat with a sharp object in one hand while trying to grab a paw with the other, odds are you'll come up empty-handed. Because cats' temperaments and dispositions vary greatly, there is no "perfect" way to handle a cat while trimming their claws

Some cats do well with no restraint at all, but most cats need to be held firmly but gently to make sure that no one gets hurt. Try resting the cat in the crook of one arm while holding one paw with the other hand. Or, place the animal on a table and lift one paw at a time. You may even be able to convince a particularly sociable cat to lie back in your lap. If you've got a helper, now’s their time to shine: ask them to hold the cat while you clip the nails, or just ask them to scratch your cat's favorite spot or offer up a distracting treat.

Alternatively, you may try to gently restrain your cat with a towel or blanket using the 5-step "scarf wrap" method.

Taking a little off the top

Now that you're in position and the cat's in position, put the claw in the right position, too. Take a paw in your hand and use your thumb and pointer finger to gently press down on the top and bottom of the paw on the joint just behind the claw. This will cause the claw to extend so you can quickly but carefully snip off the sharp tip and no more.

Don't get too close to the pink part of the nail called "the quick," where blood vessels and nerve endings lie. Just like the pink part of a human fingernail, the quick is very sensitive; cutting into this area will likely cause bleeding and pain.

If this happens, apply a little pressure to the very tip of the claw (without squeezing the entire paw, which would only increase the blood flow), dip the claw in a bit of styptic powder or cornstarch or rub the nail across a dry bar of soap. Don't continue if they’re too upset, but keep an eye on them to make sure the bleeding stops.

It's common to only cut the front claws, but take a look at the rear claws just in case they've gotten too long, especially if their sharp tips hurt you when your cat leaps on or off your lap. Since most cats fuss more about having their rear claws clipped, start with the front claws.

One at a time

If you aren't able to trim all 10 nails at once, don't worry. Few cats remain patient for more than a few minutes, so take what you can get, praise your pet for cooperating, then be on the lookout for the next opportunity—maybe even a catnap—to cut things down to size.

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The Truth About Catnip

Catnip, catmint, catwort, field balm — it doesn't matter what you call it. Lions, tigers, panthers, and your common domestic tabby just can't seem to get enough of this fragrant herb.

Originally from Europe and Asia, minty, lemony, potent catnip — Nepeta cataria — has long been associated with cats. Even its Latin-derived cataria means "of a cat." And research shows that cats big and small adore this weedy, invasive member of the mint family. But why do they like catnip so much? Is it safe? And what does it mean if your cat doesn't like it?

The Effects of Catnip

It's genetics that determines whether your feline friend goes crazy for catnip. About one in two cats inherit a sensitivity to the herb. However, you won't know if your kitten is one of them until sometime between ages 3–6 months.

Catnip's allure is in its volatile oil, specifically one chemical in that oil — nepetalactone. Found in catnip's leaves, stems, and seeds, it only takes one or two sniffs of that wondrous oil before susceptible felines are licking, chewing, and rolling head-over-tail.

Though intense, that bliss is usually short-lived, lasting about 10 minutes for most cats. For some, the euphoria translates into aggressive playfulness. At the same time, it makes others mellow and calm. But no matter what reaction your cat has, once the pleasure passes it'll be about two hours before kitty responds to catnip again.

Catnip: Toys and Training

Because cats do respond to catnip again and again, the herb can be a powerful training aid.

Want to keep kitty from clawing furniture? Rub a scratching post with catnip to make it more appealing. Bought a new cat bed? Sprinkle a little of the herb on your cat's bed/cushion to make it more attractive to your feline friend.

You can also provide enrichment for an indoor cat by creating catnip toys. Sprinkle a bit of the herb into an old sock, then knot the top. Or just put a big pinch of catnip in a small paper bag and crush the bag into a tight ball.

The intensity of your cat's response to toys and training will be affected by the type of catnip you use. While most cats enjoy the herb dried or fresh, they're usually less interested in catnip sprays, which generally don't contain enough nepetalactone to appeal to most felines.

Fortunately for your cat, catnip —which is non-addictive and safe to eat — is easy to grow in a sunny window. You can even go so far as to create your own cat-friendly garden with one pot of catnip and one of wheat, oat, rye, or barley grass. Not only will your cat enjoy both, but having its own house plants may keep your feline friend out of yours. If you plant catnip directly in the garden, remember that, like most mints, it's a vigorous, sometimes invasive, grower.

Catnip's potency doesn't last forever; the essential oils quickly dissipate. So if you buy dried catnip for your feline friend, store what you don't use in the freezer.

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