Diagnosing Odor in Cats

Skin odor is a common manifestation of a skin infection. The most common skin infections in cats are bacterial (superficial pyoderma) and yeast (Malassezia dermatitis) infections. Skin discharge and/or odor can indicate that your cat may be suffering from a skin infection.

What are bacterial and yeast infections?

Bacterial infections are usually caused by bacteria that are part of the normal flora of the skin (e.g. Staphylococcus intermedius). For this reason, the infection is not contagious to other animals. In cats that have abnormal skin (e.g. allergies) the bacteria increases in number and causes red bumps (papules) and rancid odor. Some cats with bacterial skin infections also develop excessive shedding, patchy hair loss, and scaling. If the infection is left untreated, it may reach deeper parts of the skin. In these cases, nodules that have a purulent (pus) discharge develop. In most cases skin infections are secondary, so it is very important to pursue an underlying cause. Failure to do so will result in reoccurring infections.

Animals often develop a yeast infection (Malassezia dermatitis), which manifests itself as greasy, red, itchy skin with a rancid odor. Areas most commonly affected include the ventral neck, groin, armpits (axillae), and perineal areas. This infection is also secondary to an underlying disease, most commonly allergies. In some cats this may be a consequence of chronic antibiotic and steroid therapy but, as a general rule, cats do not develop yeast infections after antibiotic therapy as commonly as people do.

Diagnosis of Skin Discharge or Odor in Cats

• History is very important for the proper diagnosis of skin diseases. Your veterinarian will ask questions regarding the age of onset, progression of the disease, and response to previous treatments.

• Skin cytology provides useful information on the type and severity of infection. Your veterinarian may take samples of skin (e.g. swabs or tape impressions).

• In some cases, a biopsy may be necessary to establish a final diagnosis. Some samples may be used for cultures of various types while others may be sent to a pathologist to obtain more information about the cells that are present in the skin.

Treatment for Bacterial Dermatitis

Treatment for bacterial skin disorders is antibiotics. Some of the more commonly used antibiotics include ampicillin, cephalexin, enrofloxacin, clindamycin, clavulinc acid and sulf based drugs.

The minimum length of therapy for superficial pyoderma is 3 to 4 weeks. The minimum length of therapy for deep pyoderma is 8 weeks. As a rule, therapy should be continued for 2 to 4 weeks beyond the resolution of clinical signs.

Treatment of Malassezia Dermatitis​

Systemic therapy is reserved for severe cases. It is important to note that griseofulvin is not effective against yeasts. Ketoconazole, itraconazole and fluconazole are all effective against Malassezia.

Topical therapy as the sole treatment is only effective in mild cases while severe cases usually require systemic therapy. Selenium sulfide (Selsun Blue®) is a keratolytic, anti-seborrheic, degreasing agent that will kill Malassezia (effective in 65 percent of cases).

Ketoconazole shampoo (Nizoral®) is approved in many countries for the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis in people and is usually effective in killing Malassezia.

Chlorexidine at 2 to 4 percent might be effective against yeasts, 0.5 to 1 percent is not effective.

Miconazole (Dermazole ®, Resi-zole® leave on conditioner) is also effective.

Vinegar/water rinse (1/5 to 1/10) is a cheap and effective long-term maintenance treatment to prevent relapses.

At-Home Care for Cats

You will need to shampoo your cat with medicated shampoos. Benzoyl Peroxide is an excellent antibacterial antibiotic (e.g. Oxydex®, Pyoben® shampoo). Other antifungal shampoos contain miconazole or ketoconazole (e.g. Nizoral® shampoo for dandruff is now available OTC).

Contact time is important when using a medicated shampoo. You should allow a 10 to 15 minutes contact time for the product to be effective. Leave-on products are also available on the market for prolonged efficacy.

You may have to administer oral medications (either antibiotics or antifungal medications) to help treat the infection. Compliance is very important. Some cats may require medications for a prolonged time as skin infections usually take a while to clear. Speak with your veterinarian before administering medication to your pet.

If your cat keeps relapsing with infections, it is important to pursue an underlying cause. This will decrease the frequency of relapses and reduce the risk of resistance to medications used for prolonged periods of time.

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Trimming a cat's claws

Trimming a cat's claws every few weeks is an important part of maintaining your pet's health. Not only does a quick trim protect you, your pet, and your family, it can also save your sofa, curtains, and other furniture. Nail-trimming is also a fast and effective alternative to declawing, which involves surgical amputation and can cause behavioral and health issues.

If the idea of trimming a cat's claws has you biting your nails, know that all it takes is some patience and a bit of practice to sharpen your skills.

Staying on the cutting edge

There are plenty of tools available to trim a cat's claws; use the one that works best for you and your pet.

Some people prefer a special pair of scissors modified to hold a cat's claw in place, others prefer human nail clippers and still others choose plier-like clippers or those with a sliding "guillotine" blade. Whatever your tool, be sure the blade remains sharp; the blunt pressure from dull blades may hurt an animal and cause a nail to split or bleed. Keep something on hand to stop bleeding, such as styptic powder, cornstarch, or a dry bar of soap (to rub the bleeding nail across).

Take paws

If you approach a cat with a sharp object in one hand while trying to grab a paw with the other, odds are you'll come up empty-handed. Because cats' temperaments and dispositions vary greatly, there is no "perfect" way to handle a cat while trimming their claws

Some cats do well with no restraint at all, but most cats need to be held firmly but gently to make sure that no one gets hurt. Try resting the cat in the crook of one arm while holding one paw with the other hand. Or, place the animal on a table and lift one paw at a time. You may even be able to convince a particularly sociable cat to lie back in your lap. If you've got a helper, now’s their time to shine: ask them to hold the cat while you clip the nails, or just ask them to scratch your cat's favorite spot or offer up a distracting treat.

Alternatively, you may try to gently restrain your cat with a towel or blanket using the 5-step "scarf wrap" method.

Taking a little off the top

Now that you're in position and the cat's in position, put the claw in the right position, too. Take a paw in your hand and use your thumb and pointer finger to gently press down on the top and bottom of the paw on the joint just behind the claw. This will cause the claw to extend so you can quickly but carefully snip off the sharp tip and no more.

Don't get too close to the pink part of the nail called "the quick," where blood vessels and nerve endings lie. Just like the pink part of a human fingernail, the quick is very sensitive; cutting into this area will likely cause bleeding and pain.

If this happens, apply a little pressure to the very tip of the claw (without squeezing the entire paw, which would only increase the blood flow), dip the claw in a bit of styptic powder or cornstarch or rub the nail across a dry bar of soap. Don't continue if they’re too upset, but keep an eye on them to make sure the bleeding stops.

It's common to only cut the front claws, but take a look at the rear claws just in case they've gotten too long, especially if their sharp tips hurt you when your cat leaps on or off your lap. Since most cats fuss more about having their rear claws clipped, start with the front claws.

One at a time

If you aren't able to trim all 10 nails at once, don't worry. Few cats remain patient for more than a few minutes, so take what you can get, praise your pet for cooperating, then be on the lookout for the next opportunity—maybe even a catnap—to cut things down to size.

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Brushing Your Cat's Teeth

Follow this four-week training program to get your cat comfortable with daily brushing.

You will need:

• A cat toothbrush

• Feline toothpaste (human toothpaste is not safe for cats)

• Rewards (either an edible treat or a drink from their favorite water faucet)

Week 1:

Let your cat become familiar with the smell of the toothpaste. Leave the brush and toothpaste out where the cat can inspect them. Every day, put a dab on your finger, and let them smell and lick it. If your cat is shy about tasting it, put a tiny dab near their mouth so they can lick it off. Give a reward when your cat licks the toothpaste so they associate the toothpaste with an enjoyable experience.

Week 2:

Get your cat used to the taste of the toothpaste. Apply a dab of toothpaste to one of their canine teeth every day, followed by a reward.

Week 3:

Get your cat used to the toothbrush. Put a small amount of toothpaste on the brush and let him or her lick it off. If he or she is shy about licking it, apply a dab near the mouth. Follow with a reward.

Week 4:

Gently stretch your cat's lips far enough to insert the brush gently between the lips and gums. Place the bristles at a 45 degree angle to the teeth, aiming for the narrow crevice between teeth and gums. Brush around gently, and work around the upper and lower teeth. It’s only necessary to brush the outside surfaces, as the cat’s own tongue cleans the inside surfaces well.

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What makes a cat treat healthy?

People love to shower their pets with treats and affection.

Although you can probably never give too much affection, cat treats are another thing. Cats can develop weight problems just we humans do. According to a study reported by the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention, an estimated 57% of cats are overweight or obese.

Can cat treats ever be good for kitty? Are some treats better than others? And is “people food” healthy for your cat?

What Makes a Cat Treat Healthy?

Moderation is key. It's fine to feed your cat treats, but it should be a very small part of their diet.

How small? Many experts recommend cat treats make up no more than 10% of the total calories a cat eats in a day. That’s because most treats don’t add anything but calories to a cat’s diet.

The remaining 90% of your cat’s calories should come from a high-quality, nutritionally complete cat food.

Decoding the Labels

Learning what’s in packaged cat treats can be a bit of a puzzle. Labels are lacking in calorie counts, and not all nutrients are listed on cat food labels.

To learn how many calories are in your cat’s treats, you can contact the pet food manufacturer or check with your vet for recommendations.

At a minimum, look to see if a treat is approved by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). This group sets pet food manufacturing standards, albeit minimal.

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10 Tips to a Cat’s Healthy Relationship with Treats

Remember moderation. Like people, cats can develop a taste for treats, and they may decide to avoid their own food in favor of the goodies they love. For this reason, keep cat treats novel by offering them no more than two or three times a week.

Go easy with “people food.” Foods made for cats are formulated to contain the vitamins, minerals, and amino acids a cat needs for good health, so “people food” should be a minimal part of your cat’s diet. For an occasional delicacy, you might try small bits of cheese or cooked tuna, chicken, fish, or liver. You can also give your cat a tablespoon of milk now and again, but for cats that are lactose intolerant, this may cause diarrhea.

Avoid toxic foods. Raisins, grapes, onions, alcohol, salt, tea— we may love them, but these and other common foods can be toxic to cats. If you’re not sure a treat is safe, talk your vet before giving it to your kitty.

Ban begging. When giving your cat a treat, avoid doing it at the dinner table or at the cat’s insistence. Don’t reward begging.

Overweight cats need care. There’s no way around it: Cat treats add calories. But simply cutting out treats isn’t going to do much for an overweight cat. Have your cat evaluated by a vet, who will develop a safe diet plan to help your cat lose weight slowly and carefully. Rapid weight loss in an overweight cat can lead to a serious liver disease called hepatic lipidosis.

Go green. Catnip makes a fine cat treat and it’s low-calorie. Most cats love both catnip and cat grass (which is actually a cereal grass like wheat or oats). Both treats are easy to grow in a sunny window, and you can also find dried and fresh greens in pet stores. Always be sure the plant you’re offering your cat is safe for felines. But don’t be alarmed if your cat regurgitates the kitty grass you buy— some just do that. Stick with catnip for those cats. If you’re not sure a plant is cat-safe, check the ASPCA’s web site for information on plants toxic to felines. If you think your cat may have eaten a dangerous plant call your vet immediately, or contact the Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435.

Give cat treats for fun and fitness. Help your cat exercise brain and body by using cat treats to train them in agility exercises or tricks.

Apologize with cat treats. Try giving cat treats after something your cat doesn’t like— such as claw trimming, tooth brushing, or a dose of medication. Along with praise and petting, this can go a long way toward soothing a feline who’s been forced to do something unpleasant.

Don’t use cat treats to replace love. Cats don’t have many needs: a healthy diet, a safe home, and loving attention. When you’re short on time, it can be easy to think a handful of treats builds the same bond as a stroke or cuddle.

Make your own natural cat treats. By cooking up small bits of liver, fish, or eggs for your cat, you’ll know exactly what’s in the treats they are eating. You can even make organic cat treats for your cat by buying meat, fish, and eggs that are certified organic. But remember, these treats should make up only a small part of your cat's overall diet.

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Upper-Respiratory Infections in Cats

Yes, it’s true. Our feline friends can get colds, too. As is the case for humans, bacteria or viruses are to blame.

The bacteria or viruses that most commonly cause upper respiratory infections (URIs) in cats are:

• Feline herpesvirus type-1 (FHV-1), also known as feline viral rhinotracheitis (FVR).

• Feline calicvirus (FVC)

• Bordetella bronchiseptica (B. bronchiseptica)

• Chlamydophilia felis (C. felis)

• Mycoplasma spp. (bacteria) or a feline respiratory, such as FIV or FeLV, also contribute to issues with upper respiratory infections.

Bacteria and viruses are very contagious and are present in the saliva and discharge produced by their eyes and nose. Healthy cats can get infected when they come into direct contact with a sick cat. Cats with retroviruses are especially vulnerable to the contagions, both through direct contact and indirect contact with contaminated objects.

Unfortunately, even seemingly recovered cats can still be carriers of the aforementioned diseases and unknowingly pass it on to other cats. Mother cats can also act as carriers, passing infections on to their litters.

Cats that have contracted FVR are considered “chronic carriers”, meaning they will carry the virus for life and can become sick again in times of high stress such as moving, new housemates, babies, etc. About half of the cats infected with FVC will remain infected as carriers, sometimes for a few months after the symptoms cease, and in rare occasions, for life.

Symptoms of Feline Upper Respiratory Infections

Some of the common symptoms of an upper respiratory infection in cats are:

• sniffling

• sneezing

• clear to pus-like discharge from the eyes and/or the nose

• coughing

• lethargy

How long can Feline Upper Respiratory Infections last?

An infection typically lasts for 7 to 21 days. There is an incubation period, which is the time period from point of infection to when clinical signs become apparent, which spans 2 to 10 days. It is thought the incubation time is the time of highest contagion.

Diagnosing cats with a Feline Upper Respiratory Infection

The clinical signs and symptoms are typically apparent enough to make a diagnosis. However, diagnostic tests are required to determine the cause of the infection. Some of the tests your veterinarian may recommend are:

• A complete blood count (CBC) to rule out blood-related conditions.

• Chemistry tests to ensure your cat isn’t dehydrated or suffering from an electrolyte imbalance.

• Urine tests to screen for urinary tract infection and other disease, and to evaluate the ability of the kidneys to concentrate urine.

• Tests for feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV).

Your veterinarian may want to run additional tests for cats with chronic upper respiratory infections, such as radiographs to evaluate the lungs and sinuses, cultures of cells, and microscopic evaluation of discharge.

Treatment for Feline Upper Respiratory Infections

Your veterinarian will determine the best treatment for your cat, which may include specific prescriptions and possible hospitalization, depending on the severity of the situation.

For more mild infections, other suggests of treatment may include:

• Increase humidity within your house (such as a humidifier or short trips to a steamy bathroom several times a day)

• Offer food that is appetizing to your cat, such as canned food, to encourage eating.

• Clear the eyes and nose of discharge by wiping the eyes and nose with a moistened washcloth that can be properly washed and disinfected.

Prevention of Feline Upper Respiratory Infections

Vaccination can protect your cat from the most common causes of an upper respiratory infection (FVR and FVC).

Disinfection is another highly effective way of minimizing environmental exposure. In high to minimal risk situations, it is advisable to regularly disinfect shared items such as litter boxes, food bowls, and bedding.

Preventing direct contact between cats is the best way to ultimately avoid infection. If you are bringing home a new cat that has come from a breeder or a shelter, it is important to have them visit the veterinarian before introducing them to any cats you currently have in the home. Keep in mind that your new cat may not yet show symptoms, so limited exposure and diligence in cleaning and sanitizing is critical in the first 1 to 2 weeks after adoption.

How are humans affected by a Feline Upper Respiratory Infection?

Humans are at a low risk of contracting the diseases responsible for causing upper respiratory infections in felines. Most of these infectious agents are species-specific. Viruses such as B. bronchiseptica and conjunctivitis associated with C. felis can be a possible risk for people with lowered immunity. To prevent the chance of infection, wash your hands frequently.

If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian – they are your best resource to ensure the health and well-being of your pets.

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