Holiday Gift Guide for Pets & Pet Parents

The holiday season brings about a rush of checking-off shopping lists, planning meals, and lots of celebrating. When you’re making your holiday gift list, don’t forget the furry friends you love so much!

Here is our gift guide for the pets and pet parents in your life:

Subscription Boxes

Subscription boxes are great for first time pet parents with a new pet because it allows them to explore what their pets like or dislike as far as toys and treats go.

For Dogs: BarkBox

BarkBox is a monthly subscription box for dogs that is tailored to your dog’s size and/or chewing style (see more info on their super chewer boxes for the more lovable, destructive doggos). Each month BarkBox  puts together a themed box of products that is entertaining for both the pets and their pawrents.

You can purchase the BarkBox one time or go for a full subscription.

For Cats: Meowbox

Not only do your felines get toys and treats in every subscription, but the box everything comes in turns into its own toy (because cats always prefer the box to the thing you got them). Meowbox delivers monthly or bi-monthly. 

You can purchase the Meowbox as a gift for 1 month, 3 months, or 6 months on their website.

Pet Portraits

Over at Crown & Paw, they offer a large variety of portrait options for a reasonable price. Just send in a photo of your pet facing forward and they superimpose their face right into a portrait or onto clothing like socks!

The Admiral for your bossy pets

The Princess for the spoiled pets

The Noble for pet’s that have a chip on their shoulder

The Step Brothers for fans of the movie

The American Gothic for the art school grad


Bathing Tools

Bathing a pet can be stressful, but it’s a necessary task for a lot of owners.

If their pet hates bath time (or their owner does) but desperately needs it, the Aquapaw bathing tool can help. It hooks up to a shower, bath tub, or outdoor hose to rinse shampoo from the pet’s coat as they’re being scrubbed, cutting down on total bathing time. Other great ideas include a jar of peanut butter and Aquapaw’s Slow Lick Mat that sticks to a wall for easy distraction.

Bathing Tool available on Amazon

Slow Lick Mat available on Amazon

Did you know? When dogs lick into something, pleasure endorphins are released in their brain, helping them calm down. Lick mats can soothe your best bud in stressful situations like nail clipping sessions, scary trips to the vet, and bath time. By deflecting your pet’s attention to licking and eating, it makes them less prone to bark or chew on furniture.

Custom Clothing & Accessories

Who doesn’t want fun clothing with their pet’s face on it?

From socks to pajamas, t-shirts to totes, there are a wide range of options for creating custom clothing and accessories with your loved one’s favorite pet’s face on it. All you have to do is supply a clear photo of the dog, cat, bird, or even fish and your friend or family member receives a fun way to show off their pet.

Pet-Sitting Services

Does your gift recipient love to travel but struggle with finding someone to take care of their pet while they’re gone?

Gift them pet-sitting services! If you’re able, you can provide these services yourself for a low-cost gift. Or, if you don’t live nearby or otherwise can’t provide the pet-sitting yourself, gift them a few days’ worth of services either from a sitter they trust or one you find.

Cooling Dog Mat

If you’re in Florida like us, it’s almost always summer weather. Keep your pup cool during those extra warm days with a cooling dog mat. You don’t have to spend a lot for a cooling mat, either. We found options under $30 on Amazon.

Furbo Dog Camera

We recommend the Furbo Dog Camera, which is a full on camera with two way communication and also dispenses treats, makes for a great gift for the pet parent that can’t always be home.

With Furbo Dog Camera, your dog will feel like you’re there, even when you’re not. This camera not only lets you see and talk to your canine companion, but it also allows you to toss treats to them when you’re not home. Used by over 5,000 vets and professional dog trainers, this camera is designed to help keep your pup safe and happy. It has night vision, a 160-degree wide-angle view day and night, a barking alert that detects when your dog is barking and can record videos.

Plaque and Tartar Fighting Dental Dog Treats

We offer a variety of dental dog treats from Greenies to OrvoVet Chews, depending on if your pet prefers something more or less crunchy.

With a unique texture that fights plaque and tartar down to the gum line, Greenies are powerful dental chews that come vet-recommended for deliciously easy at-home oral care. They’re made from natural ingredients that are easy to digest and fortified with vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients to promote overall good canine health.

Vet tip: Greenies can cause some GI upset (diarrhea, vomiting) in some pets, but are well-tolerated for the most part, and they are on the list of approved products from the veterinary oral health council.

Calming Donut Dog Bed

For the anxious pup or one that just loves their sleep, consider gifting them the Calming Donut Dog Bed. The soft and plush fabric and donut shape satisfies the nesting instinct of dogs who tend to curl up when they sleep.

You can find variations of the bed on Amazon or at most places where dog beds are sold.

Ice Cream for Dogs

Yes, you read that right. Ice cream for dogs! Simple ingredients that use lactose free milk so that their tummies don’t get upset. Just add water and freeze!

Puppy Scoops Ice Cream Mix for Dogs

Give the Gift of Peace of Mind

Gift certificates to the veterinarian are a great option for pet parents that are stressed or strapped for money this year as prices rise. Consider giving them the gift of peace of mind for their pet’s annual exam, special diet food, or a rainy-day fund towards an emergency.

Moving Cat Toy

Engage the natural predator in every feline with this moving toy that doesn’t include your participation. Cat not interested in mice-shaped toys? They offer a variety of attachments to change it up.

Available on Chewy

If you are considering buying a pet any type of interactive toy, we suggest avoiding these:

  • Balls with single air holes (these can create a dangerous suction trap)

  • Squeaker toys (unless closely monitored)

  • Sticks and stones (may splinter or become lodged in throat or stomach)

  • Heavily dyed toys

  • Toys treated with fire retardants or stain guard

  • Soft plastics

  • Feather toys

  • Balls with bells inside

  • Toys with plastic inside

Both dogs and cats use toys for comfort, to carry, shake, and roll around with, so the toys you purchase should be interactive yet appropriate for their playstyle and appropriate for their size – you wouldn’t give a teacup chihuahua the same toy you’d give a newfoundland and you surely wouldn’t give that same toy to your cat!

It’s imperative to understand the risks toys pose of ingestion, choking, stomach obstruction, containment of toxic materials, and more. While it’s a federal requirement that products consumed by humans are regulated and inspected for safety, it’s not a requirement for animal products. Exercise caution when purchasing Christmas gifts for your pets, and be sure to supervise their play once you’ve gifted it to them.

The brands/products contained within this article have no affiliation with River Landings Animal Clinic, and their presence should not be interpreted as an endorsement or recommendation by our veterinarians unless otherwise stated (see: Greenies or Orvo Dental chews).


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How to Stop a Cat From Biting

When you think of a cat, your initial image may be of a soft, peaceful animal purring quietly in your lap like a little furry engine of contentment. Unfortunately though, cats can pack a painful bite. Hopefully your cat keeps to biting only toys and food, but if your cat starts biting you, there’s usually a reason for it.

Why Do Cats Bite?

Cats need daily predatory play, which includes the opportunity to grab, pounce, and sink their teeth into something to simulate killing. A happy cat is one that thinks they've killed something every day. Because of this, movement triggers a predatory instinct and can cause a cat to pounce on an ankle or foot.

Another common reason cats bite is that the behavior was unintentionally reinforced when they were kittens. When cats are kittens, their job is to sharpen their hunting skills. Those skills include movements called the “pounce and bite” and the “grab and bite.” To practice those skills, a kitten needs something to bite, and it shouldn’t be your hand. While a kitten’s nip may not draw blood, their teeth will get bigger and their jaws will get stronger. If cats don’t learn that it’s inappropriate to bite people while playing as kittens, it’s only natural they’ll keep biting as cats.

While cats are very expressive creatures, they can’t come right out and tell you in that they’ve got a toothache or that arthritis is making their back hurt, so their biting could also be a way of letting you know there’s a medical issue. Cats are very good at hiding when they’re in pain, so when they finally do bite, things may have gotten pretty painful. If your cat suddenly starts biting you, take them to a vet.

Some cats also bite because of something called redirected aggression, which can occur in humans too. A human may have a bad day at work then come home and yell at their wife, while a cat may see another cat outside through the window, which can be very upsetting to them, and they take it out on whoever’s near them.

Owners are likely to describe it as biting out of the blue as they had not seen the episode that originally upset the cat, only the cat’s delayed reaction to it. If your cat does bite, take the wound seriously. More than with dog bites, the bacteria in cats’ mouths can lead to difficult-to-treat infections.


How to Stop a Cat from Biting (And Train a Kitten Not to)

If your vet has ruled out any medical explanation for biting, make sure your cat has a daily outlet for predatory playing. Every human should play with their cat for ten minutes every day with a feather or cat nip toy so they can ‘kill’ it". This daily play therapy will let your cat express that innate drive to kill.

Experts agree that playing appropriately with kittens using toys will help prevent them from biting people as adult cats. Kittens will naturally try to bite you while playing and when they do, don’t reprimand them, simply turn away and stop playing with them. This mimics what a mother cat would do if play got too aggressive. You’re teaching them social boundaries that if they play too hard, you’ll get up and walk away.


This action is a lot like giving your kitten a “time out,” as you might do with a child. The technique also works for adult cats, as they’ll quickly realize that if they bite, their favorite person (you) will disappear. Leave the room, if only for a few seconds, then return to your cat.

Don’t reprimand your cat by squirting it with water or using a shock mat, as those things may make the situation even worse.


Negative reinforcement may raise the anxiety level even more and cats remember things very well and they can link the bad experience, like being squirted with water—with you. They’ll think you are the one creating painful and awful things and act even more out of fear and aggression, or they’ll just hide from you all the time.

When a cat bites, they’ve often tried to warn the person they’ve bitten that they’re about to do so. You usually can tell that a cat is agitated by their body language. Behavior that says “back off” includes tail thrashing, pinned-back ears, dilated pupils, and hissing and growling. Hair standing up on their back and whiskers facing forward can also be signs of agitation.

If your cat bites you aggressively and your vet finds no pain trigger for the behavior, a veterinarian who specializes in feline behavior may try treating the cat with supplements, medication, a change in diet or a combination of all three. The treatment will hopefully reduce anxiety that may be causing your cat to bite, and then he or she can return to strictly chomping toys and treats — not people.


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How to Bunny Proof Your Home

Rabbits are curious pets that not only need a lot of space to roam and explore outside of their cage but also tend to get into things they shouldn't. By bunny proofing your home, your rabbit can explore their domain without getting into trouble.

Flooring & Baseboards

Rabbits love to dig so expect that any ground surface that will allow them to do so will be dug. Unfortunately, for many bunny lovers, this means their carpeting is the victim of their bunny's behavior.

Area rugs, carpet, and carpet padding are all attractive digging items for your rabbit so if you have them in the room you designate for your rabbit's playtime or home, it is very likely that they will be ruined. If you are okay with this likely potential, then that's fine (just make sure they aren't actually eating what they dig up).


If you want to avoid the mess and possible fiber ingestion, choose a room for your bunny that has a non-porous, easy-to-clean surface instead. Linoleum, tile, and laminate flooring are popular choices for bunny owners since they can't be dug into, don't absorb urine, and won't stain.

Baseboards are another concern for chewing rabbits, namely all rabbits. Wooden baseboard corners and edges seem to scream to be chewed on by your rabbit. If these can be avoided in the room where your rabbit roams that is ideal, but if not, you should cover or protect the baseboards to avoid them being destroyed.

Some rabbit owners make custom baseboard protectors by using pieces of wood with hinges that stand up to block the boards. You can use wire and plastic storage cube pieces that snap together and lean up against the wall, short pieces of wooden fence pickets individually attached with removable adhesive pieces (i.e. Command™ strips) so they can be replaced as needed, and other creative protective options. Some people simply line the entire room with playpen sections to protect the walls, corners, doors, and baseboards. Plastic corner protectors that attach with adhesive are also useful for baseboard corners.

If you have carpeting that has been chewed or is especially vulnerable to being chewed (corners that lift up) try placing furniture, litter boxes (if your rabbit is litter box trained), area rugs, or mats meant to be chewed by rabbits on those spots. This will not only hide the area but potentially keep them from chewing it.

Doors

If you don't use metal baby gates to keep your rabbit contained, then you probably have wooden doors that do the job instead. Rabbits will chew the bottoms and corners of these doors so in order to protect them you can put a kick plate the very bottom of them. A kick plate can also be helpful in covering up previous rabbit damage on the bottom of a door. Also, be sure to remove the door stop if it is at the bunny's level and instead utilize one at the top of the door or install a door handle wall guard.

Electrical Cords and Outlets

Cords and wires are not only things that are hard to replace on lamps and electronics but they are also extremely dangerous to your bunny if they are chewed.

WARNING

Electrical shocks and burns are seen in rabbits that chew on wires. Death is possible from the initial electrocution or side effects of the damage it does to the mouth.

Make sure all electrical cords and wires are out of reach of your rabbit. Utilize ceiling lights whenever possible or keep lamps on a table. Protect cords with plastic cord protectors, flex tubing (corrugated plastic tubing), or PVC pipe if you absolutely cannot avoid a cord being in the room with your rabbit but you should do everything you can to keep your rabbit from having access to electrical cords. Use a baby electrical outlet plug to make sure your rabbit doesn't try to chew the outlet opening as well.

Furniture

Furniture legs are often the victims of rabbit teeth just like baseboards. They come in so many different shapes and sizes so you may have to get a little creative with coming up with an option to protect them. Flex tubing is a popular choice to slide onto furniture legs since it is flexible and comes in different diameters.

Large PVC piping is another protective option or you can use temporary chewing alternatives like toilet paper and paper towel tubes to slide onto thin table legs and provide your rabbit with something to shred. Other creative options include plastic flower pots, bed leg risers (turned upside down) or protectors (such as Bed Boots™), and plastic furniture corner protectors. You may have to make something to fit the furniture legs in your home if you can't find something to slide over them.

Plants

All plants should be off the ground and out of your rabbit's reach but ideally, the room your bunny frequents shouldn't have any houseplants at all. While there are some safe plants, some plants are toxic to rabbits if they eat them and potted plants will just be dug up and make a mess so there are really no good reasons to keep them where your bunny is.

Provide Chewing Options

The best thing you can really do to bunny proof any room is to make sure a variety of chewing options are available to your rabbit at all times. Of course, they will always chew what you don't want them to chew (unless you train them not to) but if they have things they can chew they will be less likely to chew a baseboard, door, or table leg.

Make Items Taste Bad to Your Bunny

Bitter sprays (such as Grannick's Bitter Apple spray) can also be a useful chewing deterrent for items you can't protect. Spray this regularly on fabric furniture, decor, area rug edges, and other items to help discourage your bunny from chewing them by making these items taste bad. There are also lotion or cream options if you need something other than a spray.


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Possible Causes for Your Cat Vomiting Clear Liquid

Vomiting is not normal in cats, and when your cat vomits clear liquid, it can be a sign of a serious illness. Vomiting itself is what is considered to be a nonspecific symptom. It could be associated with an array of health concerns. Some of these can include things like hairballs, internal obstructions, pancreatitis, eating too quickly, constipation, indigestion, parasitic infections, poisoning, stress, depression, or even anxiety.

Possible Causes for Your Cat Vomiting Clear Liquid

Hairballs

Cats are naturally meticulously clean animals and groom themselves for a large part of their day. As your cat grooms themselves, tiny hook-like structures on their tongue catch loose and dead hair, which is then swallowed. The majority of the hair passes all the way through the digestive tract with no problems, but sometimes the hair stays in the stomach and forms a hairball.

Commonly, cats will vomit up clear liquid prior to a hairball. Although, a cat vomiting up clear liquid with a hairball occasionally can be normal and not a concern, it is important to note that hairballs should not be frequent, painful, or difficult for your cat to pass. Some commercial cat diets and treats are formulated to help prevent formation of hairballs. Adopting a regular brushing schedule and getting your cat comfortable with brushing can also help get rid of any loose fur in your cat's coat that they may otherwise ingest when grooming themselves.

Food and Dietary Changes

When there is a change in your cats feeding schedule, if your cat misses a meal or eats later than normal, your cat may vomit up clear liquid.


In addition, you may have switched your cat’s food too quickly. When changing your cat to a new diet, it is recommended to do it gradually over a one to two-week period gradually decreasing the amount of current cat food while increasing the amount of new cat food.

Your cat may eat too quickly, and this can cause clear vomit or clear vomit with food present. If you cat is a habitual 'scarf and barf' cat or if they have intestinal sensitivities, that may be causing them to vomit up partially digested or undigested food. If your vet has ruled out other medical issues and thinks that what your cat is vomiting up is actually food, they may want you to try a food for sensitive stomachs with your cat. If your cat is still struggling with vomiting food on this special diet, they may then want to put your cat on a strict, hydrolyzed protein diet.

Your vet may also suggest food puzzles for your cat. Food puzzles are a great source of both play and enrichment for your cat. There are more and more manufactured food puzzles available on the market that stimulate both of your cat's predatory and foraging instincts. The added benefit of food puzzles for a cat that chronically vomits their food, though, is that it slows down the chow time so that a cat cannot eat too quickly and then get sick from it.

Indigestion

Just like in people, a cat's stomach produces various gastric juices as well as hydrochloric acid to digest their food. If, however, a cat skips a meal for some reason, or if they are not fed on time, that buildup of juice and acid can irritate the stomach and cause your cat to vomit. Cats with indigestion may vomit yellow foam in addition to white foam. If you and your vet suspect your cat's vomiting is from indigestion, your vet may suggest feeding small, frequent meals at the same time throughout the day so as to alleviate any buildup of stomach acid.

Gastritis

If your cat is one to get into things they shouldn't, it is possible that they have irritated their stomach with something that they have eaten. When this happens, you may see vomiting clear liquid in addition to vomiting blood and/or bile. Your cat may also be exhibiting a decrease in appetite, a depressed attitude, lethargy, or dehydration. Your vet will know just what to do if your cat is vomiting because of gastritis.

Some other causes can include:

  • Parasites

  • Constipation

  • An obstruction of foreign material in the intestinal tract

  • Ingesting a toxin

  • Metabolic disorders such as diabetes, kidney disease, and hyperthyroidism

What Should I Do if My Cat Is Vomiting Clear Liquid?

Some cat owners may describe their cat as 'puke-y' but it should be noted that frequent vomiting is never normal for a cat. Vomiting more than once a week is definitely a sign of issues. If your cat is vomiting clear liquid several times and/or in conjunction with other symptoms such as lack of appetite, weight loss, lethargy, or diarrhea, you should make an appointment with your vet right away. Your vet will want to start with a physical exam, checking your cat's vital signs and palpating your cat's abdomen. After a thorough examination, your vet may also want to run some tests, including blood work and x-rays. Blood work will check your cat's organ function, making sure that there are no signs of liver disease or kidney disease, as well as your cat's red blood cell and platelet levels. An x-ray study will check for any fluid in the abdomen that could potentially be blood and it may also show intestinal gas patterns that could be indicative of a blockage.

Depending on what your doctor finds, your cat may require hospitalization for fluid therapy and supportive care, or they may just need outpatient treatments and oral medications to go home on. If your vet suspects your cat has an intestinal blockage your cat may require surgery to remove whatever the blockage is.


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How to Teach a Rescue Dog to Love Again

Imagine you’re a dog that has been surrendered, and upon waking up, only to find that everything in your world is different. Around you, others are screaming and crying. Now imagine you’re a stray, found on the streets never knowing where your next meal may be or maybe you spent most of your days chained up and unloved. On good days, a stranger comes to visit and take you for a walk. The rest of the time, there is nothing to do but sleep and wait. Then, it all changes again. A new family. A new home. All new smells. It’s no wonder that bonding with rescue dogs is a slow, tedious process that requires patience.

The First Steps to Bonding With a Rescue Dog

Dogs are trusting by nature but that trust has limits. The more a dog is subject to abandonment, the more anxiety-ridden they’re likely to be. While we may not always know the specific circumstances that led a dog to feel unsafe in the world, rebuilding trust is possible.

Give your new dog space

One of the larger mistakes people make with fearful dogs is paying them too much attention too quickly. For most dogs with severe anxiety or trust issues, you are part of the landscape of scary stuff they’ve been thrust into.

The absolute best thing you can do for an emotionally fragile dog is to give them space. Bonding with a rescue dog is all about going slow. Don’t force your dog to sit with you on the couch or sleep with you in the bed. Do offer them a comfortable alternative (like a dog bed) that is theirs alone, somewhere within eyesight but just out of reach.

Let your dog guide your interactions

Instead of approaching your dog to give them attention, let your dog come to you when they’re feeling comfortable.

A few other tips for bonding with a rescue dog at a pace they can handle:

  • Stay away from petting sensitive areas like their head, ears, tail, and paws.

  • Choose to pet areas like your dog’s side or back.

  • Never hover, bend over your dog or attempt to hug them close to your body. These actions can make a frightened dog feel trapped and lead to increased anxiety and even a bite.

  • Never allow someone unfamiliar to approach and pet your dog unless your dog is soliciting attention from them.

Try classical conditioning

If your pet is skittish when you move around, classical conditioning and desensitization techniques can help your pet feel more secure about being in your presence. Your objective is to merely deliver an amazing, delicious treat.

Here’s how to do it:

  1. With a chunk of high-value food (chicken, cheese, hot dogs, etc.) or a yummy chew like a pig’s ear or bully stick, walk towards your dog.

  2. Drop the object close by, then continue walking away.

  3. You can speak to your dog in pleasing, soothing tones, but don’t stop to pet them.

  4. Repeat this daily (or multiple times a day) until you see your dog start to perk up a bit when you approach.

  5. Next time you drop the food, instead of walking away, hang out nearby.

  6. You can talk to your dog in soothing tones but don’t interfere with your dog’s eating. (NEVER take away a food object from a fearful dog.)

  7. Repeat until your dog is able to comfortably eat their treat with you nearby.

Over time, and with repetition, your dog learns that being near you is a positive experience, and they’ll start to relax. A calm dog is more open to bonding with you.

Avoid hand-delivered treats in the beginning

Sure, bonding with a rescue dog involves treats—but it’s unwise to make a fearful dog take food from your hand. Some dogs may be willing to get closer than they’re comfortable with in order to get high-value food, but by pushing them beyond their stress threshold, they’re unlikely to make long-term improvements.

Here’s how to work your way toward hand-fed treats:

  • Instead of giving your dog a treat from your hand, toss it a few feet away from you.

  • Repeat regularly until your dog is comfortable within a few feet of you and is happy to hang out there.

  • Decrease the distance you throw the treat.

  • Watch your dog’s body language to see if they’re able to take the treat from the new location while remaining relaxed. If so, repeat until they’re regularly approaching without signs of anxiety.

  • Continue to shorten the distance slowly until, eventually, you offer the treat from your hand.

  • If your dog darts in to grab the treat then darts away, you will know you are pushing them too fast.

Limit scary experiences on walks

To help a dog feel safe and confident in the world, they shouldn’t be placed in frightening situations. Remember that scary is relative. You may not think a rumbling truck or a busy street is scary, but your dog might.

To give your dog the best chance of building confidence outdoors, begin by walking them in the quietest place you can think of, preferably away from roads. Gradually over time (weeks or months, not days) shift your walks to busier and noisier locations. For example, your next location could be a quiet residential street.

Be sure to walk armed with plenty of high-value treats, which you can give your dog immediately after anything loud or unexpected happens. For example, if a skateboarder zooms by, immediately pull out a handful of treats and deliver them to your dog’s mouth one after another until your hand is empty. If your dog is uncomfortable taking treats from your hand, drop the handful on the ground beneath them.

Use games to build confidence

Bonding with a rescue dog that doesn’t trust the world requires confidence building. Games are a great way to start.

If your dog is uncomfortable being approached or eating food from your hand, try some extremely simple shaping exercises. Shaping is like a game of hot-and-cold where your dog is rewarded for moving closer to the goal.


How to play a shaping game

  • Decide what you want your dog to do. Stick to easy tasks like walking to the dog bed or touching a toy with their nose or paw.

  • Throw your dog a treat each time they look at the destination you’ve chosen for them.

  • Next, throw them a treat for shifting or inching closer to it. If your dog moves away, don’t reward.

  • Finally, when they accomplish the goal, jackpot them by throwing a handful of treats.

Practice your training exercises in short bursts of a few minutes at a time and make sure your dog is successful. If they’re struggling with a cue, they may not be ready for it. Be patient and always end on a win.

Help them make other dog friends

When you’re dealing with a dog with trust issues, it can be easy to forget that they’re still a dog. Many dogs that don’t trust humans are comfortable with their own kind.

Give your pup the opportunity to socialize with other dogs to help relieve stress and build their confidence in different environments. Busy enclosed dog parks aren’t always the best option for a fearful dog, as they can be noisy, chaotic, and overwhelming.


For best results, create opportunities where they can interact with one or two pets at a time, or where they have enough space to encounter other dogs without feeling pressured to interact, like a dog-friendly recreation area.


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