Introducing a New Cat to Your Family Cat

So you're considering adding a new feline friend to your home? Some people say cats are like chips — you can’t have just one! Whether your current cat is lonely, their companion cat recently passed away, or you simply love cats—it is important to take a few precautions to ensure that your cat-to-cat introductions go as smoothly as possible.

Finding a Cat

We always recommend adopting a cat from a local animal shelter. Millions of amazing cats enter animal shelters each year, and yet 71 percent are euthanized because there are simply not enough homes for them. A wide variety of cat breeds, sizes, colors, and personalities can be found at any animal shelter, which gives you a lot of options to choose from. Most shelters also have information about each cat’s personality and background, which increases your chances of success.

We recommend not purchasing from pet stores, as the cats there are no “better” than the homeless animals you’ll find at your local shelter, and they may have come from purebred parents who are kept in inappropriate conditions or not have been given the same amount of veterinary care as shelter cats.

If you are committed to finding a specific breed of cat, be sure to find a reputable breeder to deal with.

Adult or kitten?

If you have your heart set on a kitten, wait it out until “kitten season”, as shelters are often inundated with homeless kittens in the springtime. Keep in mind that in just a few short months that adorable kitten will look just like an adult. Meanwhile, adopting an adult cat, you will be able to assess more about their fundamental personality than you will be able to for a kitten, which could improve your chances of success.

Consider your current cat

Perhaps the most important step in adding another cat to your home is careful consideration of the resident cat’s personality. Features such as looks, size, breed, gender or any quality other than personality are not factors that should weigh heavily in the decision. Instead, focus primarily on personality matching:

• If you have a very laid-back, elderly or frail kitty at home, it is best to avoid kittens and very playful or rambunctious cats.

• If you have a rambunctious cat who zooms all over the house, getting a very laid-back or quiet, shy cat is probably not wise.

Try to focus on cats who have personalities similar to that of your current cat.

The introduction process

By planning ahead and taking things slowly, your chances of success when introducing cats are much greater. If you rush into things and attempt to “force” a relationship, you might inadvertently sabotage a relationship that could have otherwise worked out. Here are six steps that can help you ensure a successful introduction:

Step one: Start by trading scents

Once you have selected a potential new cat, ask the shelter or breeder if you can take home a blanket the cat has slept on to give to your resident kitty. Also prepare a blanket from home that your resident kitty has slept on, to give to your new cat. If you can exchange the cats’ scents with one another, you will be introducing a very important identification and communication signal right off the bat.

Step two: Prepare a separate room

• Some cats can be dropped into the middle of a new home and adapt just fine, with everything working out between the kitties. However, such an approach can also end in disaster, injuries, or a failed adoption. Before bringing your new cat home, we recommend:

• Find a quiet room in your house (a bedroom or bathroom) where you can keep the new cat safely separated from the resident cat for a few days.

• Make sure it is a room where the resident cat has been, that it can be easily accessed by all human family members for social interactions and playtime, and that it is set up with food, water, litter, toys and soft beds.

• Choose a room that has an inch or two of space under the door for feline introductions.

Step three: Feed them on opposite sides of the door

Place both cats’ dishes close to the door, on their respective sides. If one of the cats refuses to eat, you can feed them elsewhere, but still place dishes of tuna or some other tasty snack on either side of the door. By having both cats experience something positive (a meal or yummy snack) while they are nearby, they can learn to form positive associations with each other.

If either cat is growling or hissing at the other through the door, do not put them together anytime soon; take things very slowly and continue feeding this way. If the problems continue for several days, it is likely the match is not going to work out.

Step four: Exchange scents around the house

If both cats are eating well, and appear calm and relaxed on their respective sides of the door, then it’s time for the big scent exchange:

The resident cat should now be confined in the room, while the new cat is allowed to roam the house. Each cat should use the other cat’s (cleaned!) litter box, food and water dishes, beds and toys, so the only thing being exchanged is the cats themselves.

Continue to feed both cats close to their respective sides of the door.

While the new cat is exploring your home, you may want to close bedroom and bathroom doors at first so the new cat doesn't feel overwhelmed. Over the course of a few days, open a door or two at a time and increase the amount of space the new cat has access to.

If either cat appears stressed, nervous, or fearful, you might want to do the exchange described above multiple times, for example:

The new cat spends a few days in the room, then a few in the house, then back in the room — while the resident cat is in the opposite location. This can help ensure lots of scent exchange and desensitization.

Step five: Let them make visual contact

If everything seems to be going well, and everyone is acting, eating and using the litter box normally, you’re doing great! The next step is to open the separating door, but keep a gate of some sort across it so they can see, smell, and have contact with each other. The gate should prevent complete access. (A baby gate is perfect, but usually not high enough for cats, so you may need to stack two on top of each other.)

Continue feeding both cats on their respective sides of the door, and continue switching them back and forth.

Step six: Allow them to meet

If everything seems fine, and everyone is acting, eating and using the litter box normally, then it’s time to take down the gates.

There may be some hissing or swatting, but cats often will work things out by themselves. If there is a fight in which one of the cats is traumatized or injured (and you have followed all of the above steps), then the match will likely not work out.

If the cats seem to tolerate, ignore, enjoy, or interact with each other – that’s great news!

Leaving Cats Alone Together

It’s a good idea to separate the cats at first when you will not be around to supervise them. You want to ensure that you see all their interactions and know exactly what is going on. After you feel that the cats are getting along, you can ease up on this step.

Getting another cat will have a big impact on your resident cat, so consider your decision carefully, and introducing them properly is the right thing to do. Good luck!

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Cat Adoption Checklist

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Thinking of adopting a cat or looking to help clear the shelters? Check out these helpful tips first!

If you’re thinking about adopting a cat, consider taking home two.

Cats require exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction. Two cats can provide this for each other. Plus they’ll provide more benefits to you. Cats’ purring has been shown to soothe humans as well as themselves – and they have an uncanny ability to make us smile. A great place to start your search is online. Sites like petfinder.com let you search numerous shelters in your area simultaneously to help narrow your search and more quickly find the match that’s right for you and your new feline friend (or friends!).

Find a cat whose personality meshes with yours.

Just as we each have our own personality, so do cats. In general, cats with long hair and round heads and bodies are more easygoing than lean cats with narrow heads and short hair, who are typically more active. Because they work with the felines day in and day out, speak with an adoption counselor, who can best offer advice to help you match the cat’s personality with your own.

Schedule a vet visit within the first few days following the adoption.

You’ll want to take any medical records you received from the adoption center on your first visit. Kittens, in particular, should be socialized in the clinic prior to the exam to familiarize their vet with experiences outside of exams and have more positive associations.

Make sure everyone in the house is prepared to have a cat before it comes home.

Visiting the shelter or animal control facility should be a family affair. When adopting a new cat with existing pets at home, discuss with the adoption facility how to make a proper introduction.

Budget for the short- and long-term costs of a cat.

Understand any pet is a responsibility and there’s a cost associated with that. A cat adopted from a shelter is a bargain; many facilities will have already provided spaying or neutering, initial vaccines, and a microchip for permanent identification.

Stock up on supplies before the cat arrives.

Be prepared so your new cat can start feeling at home right away. Your cat will need a litter box, cat litter, food and water bowls, food, scratching posts, safe and stimulating toys, a cushy bed, a brush for grooming, a toothbrush, and nail clippers.

Cat-proof your home.

A new cat will quickly teach you not to leave things lying out. Food left on the kitchen counter will serve to teach your new friend to jump on counters for a possible lunch. Get rid of loose items your cat might chew on, watch to ensure the kitten isn’t chewing on electric cords, and pick up random items like paper clips (which kittens may swallow).

Go slowly when introducing your cat to new friends and family.

It can take several weeks for a cat to relax in a new environment. It’s a great idea to keep the new addition secluded to a single room (with a litter box, food and water, toys, and the cat carrier left out and open with bedding inside) until the cat is used to the new surroundings; this is particularly important if you have other pets. If you’ve adopted a kitten, socialization is very important. But remember – take it slow.

Be sure to include your new pet in your family’s emergency plan.

You probably have a plan in place for getting your family to safety in case of an emergency. Adjust this plan to include your pets. Add phone numbers for your veterinarian and closest 24-hour animal hospital to your “in-case-of-emergency” call list.

If you’re considering giving a cat as a gift, make sure the recipient is an active participant in the adoption process.

Though well-meaning, the surprise kitty gift doesn’t allow for a “get-to know-one-another” period. Remember, adopting a cat isn’t like purchasing a household appliance or a piece of jewelry – this is a real living, breathing, and emotional being.

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Socialization of Cats and Dogs

What is socialization?

Socialization is the process of preparing a dog or cat to enjoy interactions and be comfortable with other animals, people, places, and activities. Ideally, socialization should begin during the "sensitive period" which is between 3 and 14 weeks of age for puppies, and 3 and 9 weeks of age for kittens.

Advice to new puppy and kitten owners

Adopting a new kitten or puppy is a wonderful and exciting experience. It is also a time where a little extra planning can help a new pet develop a calm and confident temperament that will help them enjoy life to the fullest. The basic tenets of socialization are outlined below.

• When adopting a puppy or kitten, ask for a pre- and post-adoption socialization plan.

• Create a socialization plan specifically for your dog or cat to prepare him or her for life in your household. Plan exposures to the animals, individuals, environments, activities, and objects that will be part of his or her new life.

• Provide regular positive and diverse experiences to encourage your dog or cat to enjoy new experiences without becoming fearful or aggressive.

• Provide praise, play, and treats to reward engagement. Allow the dog or cat to withdraw if he or she is uncomfortable. Move at a pace appropriate for your pet's personality.

• Well-managed puppy or kitten socialization classes are a good way to socialize your new pet within the “sensitive period” of a pet’s life.

• Puppies or kittens that are not fully vaccinated should not be exposed to unvaccinated animals or places they may have been (such as outdoor parks).

• Continue to reward your dog or cat for calm or playful responses to social interactions throughout his or her life.

• For dogs or cats with special behavioral needs, develop a plan with your veterinarian and/or another animal behavior expert.

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How to Remove Ticks on Dogs and Cats

Ticks can transmit deadly diseases to a pet within as little as 24 hours of latching on, so swift removal is important for minimizing their exposure to disease.

While removing a tick may seem like a self-explanatory process, you’ve probably heard some myths about tick removal that can actually do more harm to your pet. Here’s the best way to remove a tick from a dog or cat safely.

What You’ll Need to Remove Ticks on Pets

Before you start the actual removal process, these are the supplies you should have on hand:

• Tweezers (pointy ones work best)

• Latex or rubber gloves

• Rubbing alcohol

• Antiseptic wipes (optional)

• Jar or container with lid

• Treats (for distraction)
  

How to Get a Tick Off Your Pet

Follow these steps to safely remove a tick from your dog or cat:

STEP 1: PUT ON YOUR GLOVES.

Ticks carry infectious agents that can affect both humans and dogs, so it’s always better to play it safe and wear protective gear.

STEP 2: STEADY YOUR PET AND KEEP THEM CALM.

When you’re getting ready to remove the tick, you’ve got to keep your pet calm. Any unusual poking or prodding tends to make dogs and cats nervous. If there is another person available, have that person help keep your dog relaxed during removal.

You may find it helpful to distract your pet with lickable dog treats. You may also use treats as rewards for cooperative behavior during the tick-removal process.

Never try to force your dog or cat to stay put. If your dog resists during the tick-removal process or becomes scared or aggressive, you should enlist the help of your veterinarian.

STEP 3: POSITION YOUR TWEEZERS.

Take a pair of tweezers—fine-tipped, pointy ones work best—and grasp onto the tick as close to your dog’s skin as possible. Grabbing close to the skin is the best way to get a tick head out.

Be careful not to pinch your dog’s skin.

STEP 4: PULL OUT THE TICK.

Using steady, even pressure, pull the tick straight out. This is the best way to remove a tick from a dog.

Do not twist or jerk the tick because you want to avoid leaving any part of the tick’s mouth or head behind. Also, make sure not to squeeze or crush the tick, since its fluids may contain infectious material.

Although you may have heard that you can remove a tick with a lit match, this is a dangerous myth! Doing so can cause a tick to release toxins or diseases into your pet.

After removing the tick, examine it to make sure the head and mouthparts were removed. If not, take your pet to a veterinarian to remove any remaining tick parts.

STEP 5: KILL THE TICK.

Kill the tick by placing it in a container with rubbing alcohol.

Once the tick is dead, most veterinarians recommend keeping it in the container with a lid in case your pet begins displaying symptoms of disease.

There are many types of ticks, and each tick carries different kinds of diseases, so keeping the tick can help your veterinarian make a proper diagnosis.

STEP 6: DISINFECT THE BITE SITE.

You can use triple-antibiotic spray or wipes to disinfect the bite site, or you can use over-the-counter chlorhexidine solution to clean the area.

Keep an eye on it for signs of infection. If the skin remains red or becomes inflamed, see your veterinarian right away.

STEP 7: PROTECT YOUR DOG.

Start your pet on effective flea and tick prevention to keep them safe. If you already have your pet on flea protection, read the label to make sure it also protects against ticks. If it doesn’t seem to be working, ask your vet for recommendations for an effective flea and tick treatment.

Make sure to keep a close eye on your dog or cat over the next few weeks. You should be on the lookout for any strange symptoms, including a reluctance to move (joint pain), fever, fatigue, loss of appetite, swollen lymph nodes or swelling at the tick bite site.

If your dog displays any of these symptoms, take your pet to your veterinarian immediately.

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Does my indoor cat need to visit a vet?

There are myths and conflicting advice surrounding indoor cats and what is best for their health. Though cats have been domestic pets for more than 9,500 years, keeping cats as “indoor-only” pets has only risen in popularity in the last 100 years or so. As our cities expanded, so did urban and sub-urban dangers to free-roaming cats, and caring cat owners learned the best way to keep their cats safe was to keep them indoors. This may be one reason why what is best for an indoor-only cat’s health is still the subject of differing opinions and debate. One of the biggest concerns potential pet parents have about cats they adopt is their health.

So, if you adopt a healthy cat and keep them as an indoors-only, cat do they ever need to see a vet?

Well, even if your cat is strictly an indoor cat, it’s very important for all cats to receive regular veterinary care—including a complete checkup and screening tests at least once, yearly. One important factor to consider when determining your cat’s vet visit frequency is its age or stage of life. If your cat is a senior (11 years of age or older) or experiencing ongoing health issues, visiting the vet twice a year should be common practice. This allows the vet to assess your cat’s overall health and catch any conditions that often surface as a pet ages.

Indoor Cat Health & Happiness Tips

There’s no question that cats who live indoors-only live longer, healthier lives. Since health is directly related to happiness and lack of stress, and it is up to us cat caretakers to always be adding new hunting, watching, chasing, pouncing, sniffing, hiding, and listening enrichment to their indoor environment.

One way to keep your indoor-cat entertained is to give them lots of interesting and changing things to look at from their safe haven.

Some cats are “alpine explorers” who like to climb and get up as high as they can! They are the ones you’ll see at the top of the cat trees in a shelter’s communal cat room, who can nap on the back of the couch or on the narrowest bookshelf edge way up above your head. You can celebrate their mountaineering skills by creating indoor alpine kitties skyways and penthouses for their enjoyment. Here’s one idea: DIY Window Cat Perch.

Some cats are “cave dwellers” who like to hide in closets, under beds, and in cardboard boxes. Well, pretty much every cat I’ve ever met likes cardboard boxes! You can enrich your indoor cat’s life by helping a friend move and then recycling those boxes, or DIY a cardboard box cat castle like in this video.

Some cats love treats and really enjoy being treated for doing tricks! Tricks-for-treats training is a great way to provide mental stimulation for an indoor cat. Some tricks cats enjoy doing are coming when called, jumping up onto something on command, sitting, and sitting up.

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Related: We have more information under our cat health category.