Why You Should Routinely Clean Your Pet’s Food and Water Bowls

Did you know your pet's food and water bowls are a hot spot of risk? Dirty food and water bowls can lead to parasites, affecting your pets and household. In the context of hygiene, pet food bowls are definitely an important part of your cleaning routine to be meticulous about.

We will cover a variety of things:

Good Hygiene & Safety Measures

4 Ways Your Dog’s Water Can Make Them Sick

Determining the right bowls for your pet

Where Do the Bugs Come From?

Zoonotic diseases are diseases that normally infect an animal, but poses a risk to people.

The most common zoonoses with regard to food and water bowls are salmonella, campylobacter, and worms.

These bugs have different mechanisms of causing infection, but they can all be shed into the environment through feces and travel indoors on the pet’s paws or coat.

When your pet licks their fur and then eats from a bowl, this can spread infection onto an object you touch. When you pick up the bowl, you run the risk of getting that same bug on your hands.

Also, with salmonella, the food itself may contain bacteria, with raw meat and eggs posing a special risk. We normally rely on thorough cooking to kill salmonella, so feeding a raw diet to your pet increases the risk.

Food Hygiene

Knowing raw meat could contain salmonella should make you think twice about where you store it.

It should be refrigerated (below 40° F) to slow down the growth of contaminating bacteria. Avoid storing raw meat or any pet food immediately beside human food. Make sure it’s securely wrapped and put in a different section of the fridge whenever possible.

The longer food sits in the open at room temperature, the greater the chance of bacterial contamination and multiplication. With this in mind, serve only the portion your pet can eat in one go so that food isn’t left sitting around. To streamline this and avoid the risks, buy packs of moist food in smaller sizes so you can throw unopened food away rather than store open sachets for days.

Related: Salmonella Infection in Pets & People and Zoonotic Diseases

What’s the Safest Way to Wash Bowls?

Wash them every day: Rinse them under running water and either hand-wash them in hot soapy water or put them on the top rack of the dishwasher (so the dishwasher’s heat doesn’t melt plastic dishes).

When hand-washing, do the pet’s dishes last, using a separate sponge or scourer kept just for the pet’s things. Make the water as hot as you can stand without burning yourself and use liquid or detergent soap. Rinse them well — your pets won’t enjoy a soapy aftertaste, and there’s a slim chance it could make them ill.

Fresh drinking water must be available for your pet at all times, so have at least 2 sets of everything so you have one bowl that’s clean and full of water for your pet while you are cleaning the other one.

Other Safety Measures

Always keep separate utensils for the pet’s food, such as serving spoons, forks, or scoops. Never use the pet’s things (toys, bowls, etc.) as a scoop.

Although some pets have nasty tummy upsets as a result of salmonella and campylobacter—not all do. Some pets are carriers, meaning the bug is in their system—they’re not ill, but they excrete it in their waste. Some of those bacteria (and also worm eggs) get onto the pet’s coat and then onto your hands when you stroke them. Delightful imagery, right? Wash! Your! Hands!


4 Ways Your Dog’s Water Can Make Them Sick

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Your dog’s water bowl is the 3rd most germ-laden place in the house!

We all know clean and fresh water is vital for good health. With this in mind, you probably top up the bowl every time it goes down.

But as it happens, this isn’t sufficient to ensure good health. Merely topping up the water level does nothing to control harmful bacteria or even toxins that can be lurking in the water. Not only are these bugs unpleasant, but also they can cause illness in people, especially those with weak immune systems. So what bugs could be lurking in your pet's water bowl? Surprisingly, quite a few!

1. Giardia

This single-celled parasite may be better known to you as “traveler’s diarrhea.” It can infect people too—not just your pets.

Giardia is shed in feces inside a hardy oocyst. The latter is tough and can survive for long periods of time in warm, humid conditions, and thrives in water.

When a dog drinks infected water, the parasite passes into its gut. Some dogs show no symptoms, but others can develop sickness and weight loss in addition to diarrhea.

A diagnosis is made by examining a fecal sample under a microscope. Most cases respond well to 3-10 days of medication tailored to your pet.

Related: How do pets and people become infected with Giardia?

2. Cryptosporidium

Cryptosporidium is similar to giardia but a whole lot tougher. It’s so tough that it can survive chlorine treatment. Similar to giardia, oocysts are passed in feces that, if they get into the water, are a source of infection for animals and birds.

  • Your vet will prepare a treatment of fenbendazole or metronidazole to kill the parasite in the gut.

  • Bathe and shampoo the dog on the last day of treatment to wash away any oocysts clinging to the coat. Not doing so risks reinfection should the dog lick their fur.

Related: What Can I Catch From My Dog?

3. Leptospirosis

Leptospirosis is a particularly nasty infection with the potential to kill. It’s also a devious infection because signs can range from mild stomach upsets that last for weeks to months to an acute liver and kidney failure that are fatal in hours.

Other symptoms include:

  • Fever

  • Muscle weakness

  • Blood in the urine

  • Loss of appetite

  • Vomiting

  • Diarrhea

  • Collapse due to organ failure

Leptospirosis can be spread by rat urine and especially loves water sources such as standing water, puddles, and birdbaths. The unpredictable nature of leptospirosis means prevention is the best policy.

Luckily, there are vaccines available for your dog. If you live in a risk area for lepto, then your vet will advise giving the vaccine. A word of caution, though: The vaccine must be given yearly, as immunity is often gone completely 12 months after the previous dose.

Humans, however, don’t yet have a vaccine. Did you know pets can pass lepto to people? If your dog shows similar symptoms to those above and you feel unwell, see your physician as a matter of urgency.

Related: You and Your Pet Are at Risk For Leptospirosis

4. Blue-Green Algae

You may be aware that dogs shouldn’t swim in water with an obvious algal bloom—but do you know why?

Cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae, are a toxin-producing form of bacteria. This toxin can affect any mammal (yes, including people), causing nerve and liver damage.

Signs of toxicity include:

  • Weakness

  • Muscle tremors

  • Drooling

  • Vomiting

  • Diarrhea

  • Breathing difficulties

  • Collapse and death

There is no antidote to blue-green algae poisoning. Treatment includes rinsing out the stomach to remove contamination and supportive care with intravenous fluids.

So don’t let your dog swim in dirty water or drink from containers of “old” water — give them the fresh stuff.

Related: How Red Tide Affects Your Pet


Biofilms on Your Pet’s Water Bowl Are Bad

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Spot the biofilm in your pet’s water bowl.

Does your dog or cat have a stainless steel drinking bowl? Next time you rinse the bowl under the tap, look for that misty, smoky layer covering the metal.

If you can’t see it, try wiping your finger across the wet metal surface. If your fingertip leaves a clean streak in its path, then you’re looking at a biofilm.

The definition of a biofilm is: “A thin but robust layer of mucilage adhering to a solid surface and containing a community of bacteria and other microorganisms.” So, basically a thin layer of stickiness rich in bacteria that coats a surface. Yum!
You will have experienced a biofilm for yourself the last time you skipped brushing your teeth. Do you know that unpleasant stickiness that coated your teeth? Well, this is a biofilm made up of mucin, which is a mucous-like glue and bacteria combination.

When water comes into contact with a biofilm, it then becomes a weak bacterial soup. When the pet drinks that water, it’s tantamount to challenging their immune system to a duel. If the dog is very young, elderly, or on immune-suppressive drugs, then there’s a risk of them becoming ill.


Ditch The Plastic!

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Plastic is riddled with risks.

Plastic bowls have more than their fair share of problems when it comes to drinking water.

The plastic surface is easily scratched, which provides inviting nooks and crannies for bugs to hide in.

But more than this, plastic bowls are made of chemicals. One in particular, p-benzyl hydroquinone, inhibits the production of melanin (dark pigment).

It’s melanin that gives a black, leathery nose its rich, deep color. When a nose has regular contact with p-benzyl hydroquinone, such as when the dog drinks, it can cause depigmentation. This can lead to a black nose turning mottled or patchy-looking.

Just think—if this substance can do this to the outside of the body, what’s it doing to the inside?

We know that BPA (a chemical that hardens plastic) can interfere with the production of natural hormones in the body. In people, BPAs are linked to diabetes, impaired brain function, and cancer. When you think about how small dogs and cats are compared to people, the dose of BPA they get must be relatively higher.



Micro-Cracks Lurk in Ceramic Bowls

Surely, a good, heavy-duty ceramic bowl is better, right? Yes and no.

Ceramic bowls aren’t regulated in terms of what goes into making them. There is concern that some originating from China contain lead. Lead is a toxic substance that causes destruction of the red blood cells and nerve damage and is generally a substance best avoided.

In addition, the glaze on a ceramic bowl is subject to microfractures. This is called “crazing” within the glaze and can be seen on a microscopic level.

Scientists investigating biofilms found them to be just as bad on ceramic bowls as plastic. They suspect this ultra-fine crazing somehow provides “grip” for the microfilm to stick to.


Stainless Steel Is Best

The hands-down winner when it comes to drinking bowls is stainless steel. However, this is only if they are washed regularly, preferably on a daily basis.

Even a stainless steel bowl builds up a biofilm if it’s not washed properly. Get into the habit of washing your dog’s water bowl daily, preferably with hot, soapy water or by putting it through the dishwasher.

Don’t be tempted to merely top up the water level— this is feeding the bacterial soup. For optimal health for your pets (and family) choose stainless steel and empty it out daily, wash it with hot, soapy water, rinse and fill with fresh water.


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Hair Loss in Cats

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Does your cat seem to be going bald? And what, if anything, can you do about it? There are, in fact, lots of reasons why a cat can be bald or suffer from hair loss or alopecia.

Sometimes cats are born bald

Some cats, like the Sphynx, are born with hardly any hair. In these cats, the lack of hair is a genetically determined and desirable characteristic among proponents of the breed. Some folks seek out this particular look in a cat just like others might prefer a long-haired cat over a short-haired cat.

Sometimes feline hair loss is benign and temporary

There are also passing reasons for hair loss. Just like people go through stages where they lose more hair, cats can too. Shedding is a natural and normal process that can vary in degrees. Cats that are sick or stressed for other reasons (illness, fevers, respiratory infections, pregnancy, etc.) can shed excessively. These are not conditions that demand treatment since the cat’s coat should return to normal over time.

Sometimes the hair loss is medically important

It is important, however, to consult your veterinarian if you are noticing any changes in your cat’s coat or if they are developing bald areas. Sometimes hair loss is due to a medical problem that does require intervention since the underlying reason for it can cause more serious and systemic problems relating to your cat’s overall health.

Your veterinarian will want to determine if your cat’s hair is falling out on its own or if they are scratching, licking, or chewing the hair off as a result of some inflammation or irritation. This distinction can help to focus the diagnostic approach in your cat’s case. Generally, if your cat is actively causing the hair loss, you and your veterinarian will be looking more for causes of dermatitis or inflammation of the skin (like allergies) or for infectious diseases like bacterial, fungal, or parasitic diseases (like acne/pyoderma, ringworm or mange mites). In these cases, the answer may be found through skin scrapings, cytology, cultures, or allergy testing; and appropriate therapy can result in hair re-growth.

In dogs, hormonal imbalance (underactive thyroid, adrenal dysfunctions, etc.) is a common cause of poor coats and hair loss, but these conditions are not as common in cats. Overactive thyroid (hyperthyroidism), however, does occur frequently in older cats and can cause coat changes as can almost any other systemic or metabolic disease; your veterinarian may want to do diagnostic tests to know for sure.

Sometimes the hair loss is psychological

That is not to say that it’s “all in their head” and that your cat isn’t really going bald. Rather, it means that many cats become obsessive about grooming. Obviously, grooming is a major focus of your cat’s average day, but cats exhibiting psychogenic alopecia can break off their hair right down at the skin and over large areas of their bodies – sometimes any and every place they can effectively reach leaving hair only on their head and neck.

The compulsion may start because of some irritation to the skin (as above), and then potentially continue on habitually, even after the inciting problem has resolved. Other cats will groom excessively for solely emotional reasons – a change in environment, a new family member, or some other stress. Whatever the reason, this form of alopecia indicates that your cat is either physically or emotionally uncomfortable or unhappy, and every effort should be made to determine what the problem is and to correct it either with medical or behavioral therapy.

In summary, hair loss or alopecia in cats can be just a cosmetic issue or it can be due to a primary skin problem. It can also be an external indication of a more serious systemic or psychological disorder. Consult your veterinarian as soon as you see any changes in your cat’s coat so the two of you can address the problem as soon as possible.

If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian -- they are your best resource to ensure the health and well-being of your pets.


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Diagnosing Odor in Cats

Skin odor is a common manifestation of a skin infection. The most common skin infections in cats are bacterial (superficial pyoderma) and yeast (Malassezia dermatitis) infections. Skin discharge and/or odor can indicate that your cat may be suffering from a skin infection.

What are bacterial and yeast infections?

Bacterial infections are usually caused by bacteria that are part of the normal flora of the skin (e.g. Staphylococcus intermedius). For this reason, the infection is not contagious to other animals. In cats that have abnormal skin (e.g. allergies) the bacteria increases in number and causes red bumps (papules) and rancid odor. Some cats with bacterial skin infections also develop excessive shedding, patchy hair loss, and scaling. If the infection is left untreated, it may reach deeper parts of the skin. In these cases, nodules that have a purulent (pus) discharge develop. In most cases skin infections are secondary, so it is very important to pursue an underlying cause. Failure to do so will result in reoccurring infections.

Animals often develop a yeast infection (Malassezia dermatitis), which manifests itself as greasy, red, itchy skin with a rancid odor. Areas most commonly affected include the ventral neck, groin, armpits (axillae), and perineal areas. This infection is also secondary to an underlying disease, most commonly allergies. In some cats this may be a consequence of chronic antibiotic and steroid therapy but, as a general rule, cats do not develop yeast infections after antibiotic therapy as commonly as people do.

Diagnosis of Skin Discharge or Odor in Cats

  • History is very important for the proper diagnosis of skin diseases. Your veterinarian will ask questions regarding the age of onset, progression of the disease, and response to previous treatments.

  • Skin cytology provides useful information on the type and severity of infection. Your veterinarian may take samples of skin (e.g. swabs or tape impressions).

  • In some cases, a biopsy may be necessary to establish a final diagnosis. Some samples may be used for cultures of various types while others may be sent to a pathologist to obtain more information about the cells that are present in the skin.

Treatment for Bacterial Dermatitis

Treatment for bacterial skin disorders is antibiotics. Some of the more commonly used antibiotics include ampicillin, cephalexin, enrofloxacin, clindamycin, clavulinc acid and sulf based drugs.


The minimum length of therapy for superficial pyoderma is 3 to 4 weeks. The minimum length of therapy for deep pyoderma is 8 weeks. As a rule, therapy should be continued for 2 to 4 weeks beyond the resolution of clinical signs.

Treatment of Malassezia Dermatitis​

Systemic therapy is reserved for severe cases. It is important to note that griseofulvin is not effective against yeasts. Ketoconazole, itraconazole and fluconazole are all effective against Malassezia.

Topical therapy as the sole treatment is only effective in mild cases while severe cases usually require systemic therapy. Selenium sulfide (Selsun Blue®) is a keratolytic, anti-seborrheic, degreasing agent that will kill Malassezia (effective in 65 percent of cases).

Ketoconazole shampoo (Nizoral®) is approved in many countries for the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis in people and is usually effective in killing Malassezia.

Chlorexidine at 2 to 4 percent might be effective against yeasts, 0.5 to 1 percent is not effective.

Miconazole (Dermazole ®, Resi-zole® leave on conditioner) is also effective.

Vinegar/water rinse (1/5 to 1/10) is a cheap and effective long-term maintenance treatment to prevent relapses.

At-Home Care for Cats

You will need to shampoo your cat with medicated shampoos. Benzoyl Peroxide is an excellent antibacterial antibiotic (e.g. Oxydex®, Pyoben® shampoo). Other antifungal shampoos contain miconazole or ketoconazole (e.g. Nizoral® shampoo for dandruff is now available OTC).

Contact time is important when using a medicated shampoo. You should allow a 10 to 15 minutes contact time for the product to be effective. Leave-on products are also available on the market for prolonged efficacy.

You may have to administer oral medications (either antibiotics or antifungal medications) to help treat the infection. Compliance is very important. Some cats may require medications for a prolonged time as skin infections usually take a while to clear. Speak with your veterinarian before administering medication to your pet.

If your cat keeps relapsing with infections, it is important to pursue an underlying cause. This will decrease the frequency of relapses and reduce the risk of resistance to medications used for prolonged periods of time.


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Preparing Your Pet for the 4th of July + Fireworks

It’s almost July and you know what that means: barbeques, open doors, fireworks, and scared pets. This time of year can be especially frightening for our furry friends. In our experience, July 4th is the busiest holiday for lost pets in the whole year. Here are some ways that you can prepare your pets and keep them safe and calm before and during the celebrations:

  • Take your dog out for plenty of exercise during the day before the festivities begin

  • Keep pets indoors. They may feel safer if they are placed in a smaller interior room with a radio/tv playing.

  • Close your windows. Dogs in particular can try and get out of the house by pushing out the screen. Dogs have been known to bolt through screen doors, so keep your inside door closed.

  • Check your fence line for loose boards or openings that your dog could slip through or dig out of. We suggest you even keep a leash on your dog and walk them in the fenced yard during peak fireworks times. Never leave your pet unattended, even in a secure yard.

  • Have current, clear photos of your pets on hand. If they do go missing, you will want to be able to quickly create flyers to distribute in your neighborhood.

  • Make sure all your pets' microchips are registered and your contact information is up-to-date in your pet's microchip account, and that they are wearing visible ID such as collars and tags that display their name and microchip number clearly.

  • If you have outdoor cats, make sure they are inside before nightfall during this season.

  • Provide a safe space for pets to retreat such as a closed room with their favorite toys, blankets, pillows, and plenty of water.

REMEMBER: if your pet gets scared by the fireworks and escapes from your property, don’t panic! They are generally running away to find a hiding spot away from the loud noises and flashing lights. Do not chase or whistle for the animal, as it may make them more distressed. Alert local authorities, animal shelters, and put in a Lost Pet Report with your local Facebook and Neighborhood groups.


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Trimming a cat's claws

Trimming a cat's claws every few weeks is an important part of maintaining your pet's health. Not only does a quick trim protect you, your pet, and your family, it can also save your sofa, curtains, and other furniture. Nail-trimming is also a fast and effective alternative to declawing, which involves surgical amputation and can cause behavioral and health issues.

If the idea of trimming a cat's claws has you biting your nails, know that all it takes is some patience and a bit of practice to sharpen your skills.

Staying on the cutting edge

There are plenty of tools available to trim a cat's claws; use the one that works best for you and your pet.

Some people prefer a special pair of scissors modified to hold a cat's claw in place, others prefer human nail clippers and still others choose plier-like clippers or those with a sliding "guillotine" blade. Whatever your tool, be sure the blade remains sharp; the blunt pressure from dull blades may hurt an animal and cause a nail to split or bleed. Keep something on hand to stop bleeding, such as styptic powder, cornstarch, or a dry bar of soap (to rub the bleeding nail across).

Take paws

If you approach a cat with a sharp object in one hand while trying to grab a paw with the other, odds are you'll come up empty-handed. Because cats' temperaments and dispositions vary greatly, there is no "perfect" way to handle a cat while trimming their claws

Some cats do well with no restraint at all, but most cats need to be held firmly but gently to make sure that no one gets hurt. Try resting the cat in the crook of one arm while holding one paw with the other hand. Or, place the animal on a table and lift one paw at a time. You may even be able to convince a particularly sociable cat to lie back in your lap. If you've got a helper, now’s their time to shine: ask them to hold the cat while you clip the nails, or just ask them to scratch your cat's favorite spot or offer up a distracting treat.

Alternatively, you may try to gently restrain your cat with a towel or blanket using the 5-step "scarf wrap" method.

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Taking a little off the top

Now that you're in position and the cat's in position, put the claw in the right position, too. Take a paw in your hand and use your thumb and pointer finger to gently press down on the top and bottom of the paw on the joint just behind the claw. This will cause the claw to extend so you can quickly but carefully snip off the sharp tip and no more.

Don't get too close to the pink part of the nail called "the quick," where blood vessels and nerve endings lie. Just like the pink part of a human fingernail, the quick is very sensitive; cutting into this area will likely cause bleeding and pain.

If this happens, apply a little pressure to the very tip of the claw (without squeezing the entire paw, which would only increase the blood flow), dip the claw in a bit of styptic powder or cornstarch or rub the nail across a dry bar of soap. Don't continue if they’re too upset, but keep an eye on them to make sure the bleeding stops.

It's common to only cut the front claws, but take a look at the rear claws just in case they've gotten too long, especially if their sharp tips hurt you when your cat leaps on or off your lap. Since most cats fuss more about having their rear claws clipped, start with the front claws.

One at a time

If you aren't able to trim all 10 nails at once, don't worry. Few cats remain patient for more than a few minutes, so take what you can get, praise your pet for cooperating, then be on the lookout for the next opportunity—maybe even a catnap—to cut things down to size.


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