Diagnosing Odor in Cats

Skin odor is a common manifestation of a skin infection. The most common skin infections in cats are bacterial (superficial pyoderma) and yeast (Malassezia dermatitis) infections. Skin discharge and/or odor can indicate that your cat may be suffering from a skin infection.

What are bacterial and yeast infections?

Bacterial infections are usually caused by bacteria that are part of the normal flora of the skin (e.g. Staphylococcus intermedius). For this reason, the infection is not contagious to other animals. In cats that have abnormal skin (e.g. allergies) the bacteria increases in number and causes red bumps (papules) and rancid odor. Some cats with bacterial skin infections also develop excessive shedding, patchy hair loss, and scaling. If the infection is left untreated, it may reach deeper parts of the skin. In these cases, nodules that have a purulent (pus) discharge develop. In most cases skin infections are secondary, so it is very important to pursue an underlying cause. Failure to do so will result in reoccurring infections.

Animals often develop a yeast infection (Malassezia dermatitis), which manifests itself as greasy, red, itchy skin with a rancid odor. Areas most commonly affected include the ventral neck, groin, armpits (axillae), and perineal areas. This infection is also secondary to an underlying disease, most commonly allergies. In some cats this may be a consequence of chronic antibiotic and steroid therapy but, as a general rule, cats do not develop yeast infections after antibiotic therapy as commonly as people do.

Diagnosis of Skin Discharge or Odor in Cats

• History is very important for the proper diagnosis of skin diseases. Your veterinarian will ask questions regarding the age of onset, progression of the disease, and response to previous treatments.

• Skin cytology provides useful information on the type and severity of infection. Your veterinarian may take samples of skin (e.g. swabs or tape impressions).

• In some cases, a biopsy may be necessary to establish a final diagnosis. Some samples may be used for cultures of various types while others may be sent to a pathologist to obtain more information about the cells that are present in the skin.

Treatment for Bacterial Dermatitis

Treatment for bacterial skin disorders is antibiotics. Some of the more commonly used antibiotics include ampicillin, cephalexin, enrofloxacin, clindamycin, clavulinc acid and sulf based drugs.

The minimum length of therapy for superficial pyoderma is 3 to 4 weeks. The minimum length of therapy for deep pyoderma is 8 weeks. As a rule, therapy should be continued for 2 to 4 weeks beyond the resolution of clinical signs.

Treatment of Malassezia Dermatitis​

Systemic therapy is reserved for severe cases. It is important to note that griseofulvin is not effective against yeasts. Ketoconazole, itraconazole and fluconazole are all effective against Malassezia.

Topical therapy as the sole treatment is only effective in mild cases while severe cases usually require systemic therapy. Selenium sulfide (Selsun Blue®) is a keratolytic, anti-seborrheic, degreasing agent that will kill Malassezia (effective in 65 percent of cases).

Ketoconazole shampoo (Nizoral®) is approved in many countries for the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis in people and is usually effective in killing Malassezia.

Chlorexidine at 2 to 4 percent might be effective against yeasts, 0.5 to 1 percent is not effective.

Miconazole (Dermazole ®, Resi-zole® leave on conditioner) is also effective.

Vinegar/water rinse (1/5 to 1/10) is a cheap and effective long-term maintenance treatment to prevent relapses.

At-Home Care for Cats

You will need to shampoo your cat with medicated shampoos. Benzoyl Peroxide is an excellent antibacterial antibiotic (e.g. Oxydex®, Pyoben® shampoo). Other antifungal shampoos contain miconazole or ketoconazole (e.g. Nizoral® shampoo for dandruff is now available OTC).

Contact time is important when using a medicated shampoo. You should allow a 10 to 15 minutes contact time for the product to be effective. Leave-on products are also available on the market for prolonged efficacy.

You may have to administer oral medications (either antibiotics or antifungal medications) to help treat the infection. Compliance is very important. Some cats may require medications for a prolonged time as skin infections usually take a while to clear. Speak with your veterinarian before administering medication to your pet.

If your cat keeps relapsing with infections, it is important to pursue an underlying cause. This will decrease the frequency of relapses and reduce the risk of resistance to medications used for prolonged periods of time.

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What to do if your pet rabbit is itching and scratching

Rabbits shouldn't scratch themselves any more than you would. If your pet rabbit seems excessively itchy and scratches a lot, it is likely a problem that needs to be addressed. Various issues—from mites to allergies—can cause a rabbit to itch and scratch, but fortunately, these are treatable!

Why Do Rabbits Itch and Scratch?

When an animal experiences severe itching and scratching, it's called pruritus. In a rabbit, it can be due to fur, skin, or ear parasites; dry skin; allergies; or infections. No matter the cause, it's important to take care of it right away for the sake of your rabbit's health and quality of life.

Fur Mites

Cheyletiella parasitivorax are microscopic mites that live in the fur of rabbits. Cheyletiella mites are blood-sucking parasites that bite your rabbit in order to feed, which causes it to itch and scratch.

Fur mites are also referred to as "walking dandruff," because they're often seen moving the dead skin around on rabbits, creating the appearance of mobile skin cells. They may start off in a small area on your rabbit, but if left untreated, they can spread all over its fur, into the environment in which they live, and to other rabbits and pets.

Even if your rabbit never goes outside, it can get fur mites from food or bedding that you bring into your home.

Lice

While not as common as some other parasites, lice do infest rabbits. They're species-specific, so humans and other non-rabbit pets can't get them.

Fleas

Many people don't think that rabbits can get fleas, but the reality is that any pet with fur can. Fleas, like fur mites, are blood-sucking parasites that bite rabbits, which, in turn, causes them to itch and scratch.

Female fleas lay up to 50 eggs every day, so even if you only see one or two adult fleas on your rabbit, they've probably already laid hundreds of eggs. Fleas also bite humans, but female fleas usually can't produce viable eggs when human blood is their only food source.

Indoor rabbits can get fleas just like outdoor rabbits. Other pets in the household can give your rabbit fleas and they can be tracked in from the outdoors. Fleas can also find their own way into homes just like other insects, such as ants.

A flea comb will help you find fleas and flea dirt. Flea dirt is the cylindrical feces that turn red if rubbed with a wet cotton swab. This is a good trick for distinguishing the digested blood from normal environmental dirt.

Dry Skin

Your rabbit may develop dry skin, which can make it itch and scratch. Rooms with very low humidity, dusty environments, poor diets, and bathing your rabbit too often or using inappropriate shampoos can all contribute to dry skin in your pet. If you can determine the cause of the dry skin, then you should be able to reverse it. For temporary relief, ask your vet to recommend a rabbit-safe spray product.

Ear Mites

Psoroptes cuniculiis are ear mites that cause itching and scratching. They can be spread from rabbit to rabbit, so wash your hands after handling a rabbit with itchy ears (and in general!). You may notice hair loss around the ears and/or scabs, or the rabbit's ears may look especially dirty. A head tilt, a flopped ear, and head shaking are all signs of an ear mite infestation, which doesn't always affect both ears. If you notice any of these signs, take your rabbit to see the veterinarian.

Allergies

Just like people, some rabbits are allergic to certain substances that cause them to itch and scratch. Usually, these allergies are environmental and not food-based, so you can make changes to bedding, litter, cleaning solutions, and air purifiers to make your rabbit more comfortable at home.

Common environmental allergens include the dust in certain litters or in the rabbit's hay, as well as laundry softeners and detergents used on blankets.

Rabbits can also be allergic to parasites such as fur mites and fleas. This will make an infestation of these pests even more irritating to your pet.

Skin Irritants

In addition to allergies, rabbits may be irritated by certain products, especially if they aren't meant for rabbits. Shampoos, conditioners, sprays, and air fresheners may all cause skin irritation in your rabbit. If you use a new product, such as a shampoo, and the next day your rabbit is itching, it may be because it was too harsh for your rabbit's skin. This is often the case with products meant for dogs that are used on rabbits.

Ringworm

Caused by two main types of organisms (Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Microsporum canis), ringworm is a fungal infection that causes hair loss, itching, and red "ringworm" lesions in rabbits. People can also contract ringworm from a rabbit.

The main cause of ringworm, as well as mites and fleas, is direct contact with an infected rabbit. When you bring a new rabbit into your home, keep it separate from your other rabbits until you're sure it doesn't have an infection. Rabbits can also contract ringworm from dirty environments and brushes that were used on an infected rabbit.

Skin Infections

Urine scald and feces that have remained in prolonged contact with your rabbit's skin and generally unclean environments may cause your rabbit to develop a skin infection. The infected area may become red, inflamed, and very itchy and should be treated right away.

Treating Itching and Scratching for Rabbits

The methods used to treat a rabbit's itching and scratching depend on the cause. However, a number of problems are solved through the same means.

• Fur mites are highly contagious to other rabbits. If you have other pets in your house and your rabbit is diagnosed with Cheyletiella mites, take care not to spread these parasites to other animals. Wash your hands after handling your rabbit and throw away the food and bedding in its cage.

• For fur and ear mites, lice, and fleas, freeze all unused food and bedding that you purchased from a pet store or online. The parasites can be brought into your home with such items, so freezing them before use is also a good way to prevent an infestation.

• If your exotics vet diagnoses your rabbit with mites, she will most likely prescribe a medication such as Selamectin, which will kill the infestation without harming your rabbit. Over-the-counter products are typically not safe for rabbits, and you should always consult your veterinarian prior to administering such products.

• If you find fleas or flea dirt on your rabbit, treat your rabbit and all the other furry pets in the household with a safe medication, just as you would for fur mites.4 You will also need to clean and treat the environment. Some rabbit owners use boric acid powder in their carpeting and various flea sprays and bombs sold at pet stores. If you choose to use these products, make sure your rabbit is out of the room you're treating for at least 24 hours.

• If your rabbit has environmental allergies, use fragrance-free fabric softeners and detergents meant for babies or sensitive skin to wash its blankets. If symptoms continue, look to other possible allergens in your rabbit's environment—for example, dust or pollen from an open window in spring or summer—and try to correct these.

• Ringworm is usually treated with topical ointments or oral medication prescribed by your exotics vet.

• Skin infections typically require prescription medications. An anti-itch spray is available that's safe to use on rabbits, but if the root of the problem isn't addressed, the spray merely provides temporary relief.

How to Prevent Itching and Scratching

Often, your rabbit's itchiness can be prevented by keeping its environment clean. The freezing recommendation for any rabbit supplies is an excellent place to begin as is the use of fragrance-free laundry products for any washable rabbit bedding.

Beyond these, be sure that your rabbit's cage is as clean as possible. Daily and weekly upkeep can make a significant difference in the health of your pet and prevent many skin infections. When bathing your rabbit, use only products designed specifically for rabbits.

It's also a good idea to regularly examine your rabbit's fur. This will help you to easily recognize any abnormalities and take treatment steps immediately, which can prevent an infestation, ear, or skin problem from getting worse.
At the same time, take precautions for any other pets in your home, using products such as flea preventives on a regular basis. Take care about exposing your rabbit to other animals that could transmit any of these issues as well, especially if it's kept outside or allowed to go outside.

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5 Common Reasons Why Dogs Pant

Common Reasons for Panting

Your dog or puppy may be panting for one of these five reasons:

Heat & Heatstroke

Panting is a natural behavior observed in happy and active dogs. Unlike humans, dogs can't sweat, so panting serves as their primary means of regulating body temperature.

Panting enables a dog to quickly inhale, moisten, and then exhale air, promoting the evaporation of moisture from their nose and lungs. This internal cooling mechanism helps lower their body temperature.

During panting, dogs can lose a significant amount of water in a short time, making it essential to ensure your dog has access to ample fresh water on hot days.

Normal panting can be quite vigorous, but the intensity should correspond to the ambient temperature or the level of activity your dog is engaged in.

Overheating or heatstroke can lead to excessive panting in dogs, potentially resulting in dehydration and even death if left untreated. Immediate veterinary attention is necessary when dealing with heatstroke.

Dogs suffering from overheating will pant heavily and exhibit signs of discomfort. They may appear restless, lie down flat, or become unresponsive as their focus shifts towards cooling down.

To prevent heatstroke on hot summer days or during outdoor activities like hiking, take frequent breaks, seek shade, and provide your dog with sufficient water. Avoid exposing your dog to high temperatures or extended periods of heat, particularly if they have short snouts, as they are more susceptible to heatstroke.

Excitement

Dogs may also engage in panting when they experience excitement. Panting serves as a typical behavioral reaction to exciting events, such as encountering new individuals or receiving a treat. This form of panting tends to be swift and superficial, often accompanied by whining.

Stress

Dogs often pant and whine when stressed, much like when they're excited. Pay attention to their body language, such as wide, wary eyes or yawning, as these are common indicators of stress. Evaluate the situation and take steps to ease your dog's discomfort and prevent further stress.

Pain

It's crucial to understand that dog panting can be a sign of nausea, discomfort, or pain. To determine if your dog is panting due to pain, your veterinarian can perform a comprehensive examination and may recommend diagnostic tests.

Medicine

Some medications, particularly prednisone or other steroids, can lead to heightened panting in dogs, even in the absence of heat, excitement, or stress. This is a common side effect, so if your dog's panting becomes excessive, it's advisable to consult your veterinarian.

NEVER leave your dog in a hot car. The interior of a car can reach scorching temperatures and threaten your dog’s life in as little as 10-15 minutes, even on mild days. Run the air conditioner or leave your friend at home when running errands.

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If you suspect your pet is sick, call your vet immediately.

For health-related questions, always consult your veterinarian, as they have examined your pet, know the pet's health history, and can make the best recommendations for your pet.

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Preparing Your Pet for the 4th of July + Fireworks

It’s almost July and you know what that means: barbeques, open doors, fireworks, and scared pets. This time of year can be especially frightening for our furry friends. In our experience, July 4th is the busiest holiday for lost pets in the whole year. Here are some ways that you can prepare your pets and keep them safe and calm before and during the celebrations:

• Take your dog out for plenty of exercise during the day before the festivities begin

• Keep pets indoors. They may feel safer if they are placed in a smaller interior room with a radio/tv playing.

• Close your windows. Dogs in particular can try and get out of the house by pushing out the screen. Dogs have been known to bolt through screen doors, so keep your inside door closed.

• Check your fence line for loose boards or openings that your dog could slip through or dig out of. We suggest you even keep a leash on your dog and walk them in the fenced yard during peak fireworks times. Never leave your pet unattended, even in a secure yard.

• Have current, clear photos of your pets on hand. If they do go missing, you will want to be able to quickly create flyers to distribute in your neighborhood.

• Make sure all your pets' microchips are registered and your contact information is up-to-date in your pet's microchip account, and that they are wearing visible ID such as collars and tags that display their name and microchip number clearly.

• If you have outdoor cats, make sure they are inside before nightfall during this season.

• Provide a safe space for pets to retreat such as a closed room with their favorite toys, blankets, pillows, and plenty of water.

REMEMBER: if your pet gets scared by the fireworks and escapes from your property, don’t panic! They are generally running away to find a hiding spot away from the loud noises and flashing lights. Do not chase or whistle for the animal, as it may make them more distressed. Alert local authorities, animal shelters, and put in a Lost Pet Report with your local Facebook and Neighborhood groups.

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How to Clean Your Dog’s Ears

Keeping your dog's ears clean and dry is an important part of keeping them healthy and happy. In this article, we explain how to do an easy-does-it ear cleaning.

Have you rubbed your dog’s ears today? Sure you have. It’s one of those things we do almost mindlessly, relishing their softness and our dog’s positive response. But did you know that rubbing your dog’s ears is also a great way to make sure they are healthy? Think about it. If your dog enjoys having them rubbed, you can tell their ears are healthy. If they’re tender from an infection or injury, your dog may pull away from you, unwilling to have them touched. Gently massaging your dog’s ears is a great first step toward checking their condition. If you notice that they are sensitive about having them touched, it’s time to take a closer sniff.

Sniff & See

Yes, sniff. Healthy ears don’t have an odor. Make a habit of sniffing your dog’s ears, starting when they are just a puppy, so you know how they smell normally. If their ears smell yeasty or downright stinky, it’s likely that a bacterial or yeast infection is brewing.

Then take a look inside their ears. The skin should be nice and pink with a light coating of pale yellowish wax. A small amount of wax is part of the ear’s self-cleaning system. If the ears look red or have a dark brown or black discharge, or if your dog frequently shakes their head, paws at their ears, or rubs them against the carpet or furniture, they need a visit to the veterinarian to see what’s causing the problem.

How do you know if your dog’s ears need to be cleaned? If they look and smell good, leave them alone. In fact, cleaning a healthy ear can damage its self-cleaning abilities or irritate it.

Clean the ears yourself (see the step-by-step directions below) if they have a mild odor and you see an occasional head shake. That may be enough to stop an infection before it takes hold. You should also clean the ears if the wax looks dirty gray instead of golden or if the ears look waxier than normal. When too much wax builds up, it can block airflow in the ear and lead to an infection of the outer ear canal.

When it comes to dogs and cats, ears are much the same. Both species get the same allergies and infections. Cats, however, are more likely to get parasitic infections (preventable with monthly or quarterly topical medications), whereas dogs are more predisposed to allergic ear disease.

Avoid Ear Infections

Take your dog to the vet if the signs—or smells—continue or worsen after you clean their ears. They may need a deep cleaning and antibiotic drops or ointment to resolve the infection.

Some dogs are ear-infection magnets. If you have a floppy-eared dog or a dog with a history of ear problems, check their ears weekly. There’s no scientific evidence that dogs with droopy ears have more ear infections, but anecdotally they tend to be the ones that veterinarians see more often with ear infections. That said, allergies are probably the main cause of ear problems, and they are seen in dogs of all types.

Your best bet for preventing ear infections is to keep your dog’s ears clean and dry. Bacteria and yeast love a warm, moist environment. Keep them at bay by drying your dog’s ears thoroughly after a swim or bath.

Step-by-Step Ear Cleaning for Dogs

• Tilt your dog's head downward with one hand and squirt a gentle cleanser (ask your veterinarian for a recommendation first!) into the ear, filling the canal.

• Using the flap to hold the ear closed, give it a nice massage—which will squish the cleanser around and soften any gunk inside.

• Step back and let your dog shake. You may want to hold a towel between you and your pooch so you aren't in the splash zone.

• Wipe away any remaining cleanser with soft, dry tissue, not going any deeper than your first knuckle. That’s all you need to do. (Don’t mess around with cotton swabs that can drive debris deeper into your dog’s ear or q-tips that can drive it down further or do damage to the inner ear.)

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