Introducing a New Cat to Your Family Dog

Whether you already have a dog and are considering getting a cat, or vice versa, it is very important to think about their first introduction. By letting a loose cat and an off-leash dog meet each other in an open room for the first time, you are probably setting up both animals to fail. Instead, plan ahead and take your time.

Matching cats & dogs

• If you’re thinking of getting a cat for your dog or a dog for your cat, it’s important to consider both animals’ personalities. It may be helpful to look for a companion that has already been exposed to the other species in the past.

• If a dog attempts to aggressively chase, pin, pick up or otherwise “manhandle” any cat, it is best to not even consider getting a cat — or at least to proceed with caution. Additionally, a dog who growls, lunges at or obsessively barks at a cat would probably do best in a cat-free environment. Likewise, a cat who growls, swats at, runs from or hides from dogs would probably prefer to not live with a dog.

• If a dog loves chasing things, then a fearful, shy cat who runs away probably wouldn’t be the best choice, as it could trigger the dog to chase. Similarly, an energetic cat who runs and pounces would fall into this same category. A better match here would be a calm, confident cat who will not run (in fear or play).

• If a dog plays roughly, it is best to avoid kittens or elderly cats who can easily be hurt. Instead, stick to playful adults who are interested in play, but are also confident enough to take care of themselves. If a cat is rambunctious or playful, a dog that is playful, but gentle, could be a great option.

• If a dog or cat is elderly, laid back, quiet or anxious, then a calm counterpart would be best. Avoid rambunctious companions who may annoy, frighten or otherwise bother the other pet.

The introduction process

Regardless of whether you are getting a new cat or a new dog, the first introduction between your current pet and your new pet is a very important part of the process. Here are four steps that can help you ensure a successful meeting:

STEP 1: CHOOSE THE PROPER LOCATION FOR THE FIRST MEETING

• Resident cat to new dog: If you are adopting a dog, you should not take your cat to meet them at a shelter, or another establishment which houses a number of animals for health and safety reasons. Instead, the introduction should take place at home.

• Resident dog to new cat: If you are adopting a cat, do not take your dog into a shelter and expose them to the cats, as this can be highly stressful or traumatic for all of the cats. Also, it is not necessarily a good indicator of how the dog will react at home. Instead, ask the shelter’s adoption counselors whether they have any dog-savvy, confident cats they will allow to meet your dog under controlled conditions. If this is not possible, an alternative would be to have your dog meet a dog-savvy cat who belongs to a friend or relative. As a last resort, you can bring your new kitty home and do an introduction at home.

STEP 2: SEPARATE THE ANIMALS

• Across a few days, rotate which animal has the freedom and which is confined to allow each animal plenty of time to investigate the other one’s scent.

• Sometimes the dog should be confined to a crate or another room (or taken to another location if they can’t be left alone) to allow the cat time to roam free and investigate the smell of the dog.

• If the dog obsessively digs at the separation barrier or barks at the cat for more than a day or two, the interaction likely won’t work without proper training. You may need the help of a professional.

• When no one is home, the dog or cat must always be securely confined so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

• Once the dog is calm (or at least not obsessed with the cat) and the cat is calm, eating and using the litter box normally, you can proceed to the next step.

STEP 3: MAKE LEASHED INTRODUCTIONS

• Allow both animals to be in the same room at the same time, but keep the dog securely leashed.

• Continue with this type of introduction until the dog is calm and ignores the cat, and the cat is calm, eating, and using the litter box normally.

• If there is any fear or aggression displayed on either animal’s part, stay at step 2 longer.

• Continue indefinitely until both the dog and cat seem happy and relaxed around each other.

• When no one is home, the dog or cat should be securely confined to separate areas so unsupervised interactions are not possible.

STEP 4: ALLOW UNSUPERVISED INTERACTIONS

Unsupervised time together can occur after the cat and dog have been supervised around each other for a significant period of time (a month or so) and you are positive they will not hurt each other.

TRAINING TIP:

If the dog stares at the cat or the door separating the cat, try to distract the dog and get the dog to look away with treats, a happy voice, or by gently guiding the dog away on a leash. Once the dog is away from the cat, try offering a treat. If the dog takes it, repeat this process until the dog is no longer focused on the cat or door.

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered to your inbox (here). Or, you can keep up to date by liking and following our Facebook page (here).

Related: We have more information under our cat health category.

Introducing a New Cat to Your Family Cat

So you're considering adding a new feline friend to your home? Some people say cats are like chips — you can’t have just one! Whether your current cat is lonely, their companion cat recently passed away, or you simply love cats—it is important to take a few precautions to ensure that your cat-to-cat introductions go as smoothly as possible.

Finding a Cat

We always recommend adopting a cat from a local animal shelter. Millions of amazing cats enter animal shelters each year, and yet 71 percent are euthanized because there are simply not enough homes for them. A wide variety of cat breeds, sizes, colors, and personalities can be found at any animal shelter, which gives you a lot of options to choose from. Most shelters also have information about each cat’s personality and background, which increases your chances of success.

We recommend not purchasing from pet stores, as the cats there are no “better” than the homeless animals you’ll find at your local shelter, and they may have come from purebred parents who are kept in inappropriate conditions or not have been given the same amount of veterinary care as shelter cats.

If you are committed to finding a specific breed of cat, be sure to find a reputable breeder to deal with.

Adult or kitten?

If you have your heart set on a kitten, wait it out until “kitten season”, as shelters are often inundated with homeless kittens in the springtime. Keep in mind that in just a few short months that adorable kitten will look just like an adult. Meanwhile, adopting an adult cat, you will be able to assess more about their fundamental personality than you will be able to for a kitten, which could improve your chances of success.

Consider your current cat

Perhaps the most important step in adding another cat to your home is careful consideration of the resident cat’s personality. Features such as looks, size, breed, gender or any quality other than personality are not factors that should weigh heavily in the decision. Instead, focus primarily on personality matching:

• If you have a very laid-back, elderly or frail kitty at home, it is best to avoid kittens and very playful or rambunctious cats.

• If you have a rambunctious cat who zooms all over the house, getting a very laid-back or quiet, shy cat is probably not wise.

Try to focus on cats who have personalities similar to that of your current cat.

The introduction process

By planning ahead and taking things slowly, your chances of success when introducing cats are much greater. If you rush into things and attempt to “force” a relationship, you might inadvertently sabotage a relationship that could have otherwise worked out. Here are six steps that can help you ensure a successful introduction:

Step one: Start by trading scents

Once you have selected a potential new cat, ask the shelter or breeder if you can take home a blanket the cat has slept on to give to your resident kitty. Also prepare a blanket from home that your resident kitty has slept on, to give to your new cat. If you can exchange the cats’ scents with one another, you will be introducing a very important identification and communication signal right off the bat.

Step two: Prepare a separate room

• Some cats can be dropped into the middle of a new home and adapt just fine, with everything working out between the kitties. However, such an approach can also end in disaster, injuries, or a failed adoption. Before bringing your new cat home, we recommend:

• Find a quiet room in your house (a bedroom or bathroom) where you can keep the new cat safely separated from the resident cat for a few days.

• Make sure it is a room where the resident cat has been, that it can be easily accessed by all human family members for social interactions and playtime, and that it is set up with food, water, litter, toys and soft beds.

• Choose a room that has an inch or two of space under the door for feline introductions.

Step three: Feed them on opposite sides of the door

Place both cats’ dishes close to the door, on their respective sides. If one of the cats refuses to eat, you can feed them elsewhere, but still place dishes of tuna or some other tasty snack on either side of the door. By having both cats experience something positive (a meal or yummy snack) while they are nearby, they can learn to form positive associations with each other.

If either cat is growling or hissing at the other through the door, do not put them together anytime soon; take things very slowly and continue feeding this way. If the problems continue for several days, it is likely the match is not going to work out.

Step four: Exchange scents around the house

If both cats are eating well, and appear calm and relaxed on their respective sides of the door, then it’s time for the big scent exchange:

The resident cat should now be confined in the room, while the new cat is allowed to roam the house. Each cat should use the other cat’s (cleaned!) litter box, food and water dishes, beds and toys, so the only thing being exchanged is the cats themselves.

Continue to feed both cats close to their respective sides of the door.

While the new cat is exploring your home, you may want to close bedroom and bathroom doors at first so the new cat doesn't feel overwhelmed. Over the course of a few days, open a door or two at a time and increase the amount of space the new cat has access to.

If either cat appears stressed, nervous, or fearful, you might want to do the exchange described above multiple times, for example:

The new cat spends a few days in the room, then a few in the house, then back in the room — while the resident cat is in the opposite location. This can help ensure lots of scent exchange and desensitization.

Step five: Let them make visual contact

If everything seems to be going well, and everyone is acting, eating and using the litter box normally, you’re doing great! The next step is to open the separating door, but keep a gate of some sort across it so they can see, smell, and have contact with each other. The gate should prevent complete access. (A baby gate is perfect, but usually not high enough for cats, so you may need to stack two on top of each other.)

Continue feeding both cats on their respective sides of the door, and continue switching them back and forth.

Step six: Allow them to meet

If everything seems fine, and everyone is acting, eating and using the litter box normally, then it’s time to take down the gates.

There may be some hissing or swatting, but cats often will work things out by themselves. If there is a fight in which one of the cats is traumatized or injured (and you have followed all of the above steps), then the match will likely not work out.

If the cats seem to tolerate, ignore, enjoy, or interact with each other – that’s great news!

Leaving Cats Alone Together

It’s a good idea to separate the cats at first when you will not be around to supervise them. You want to ensure that you see all their interactions and know exactly what is going on. After you feel that the cats are getting along, you can ease up on this step.

Getting another cat will have a big impact on your resident cat, so consider your decision carefully, and introducing them properly is the right thing to do. Good luck!

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered to your inbox (here). Or, you can keep up to date by liking and following our Facebook page (here).

Related: We have more information under our cat health category.

Cat Adoption Checklist

---

Thinking of adopting a cat or looking to help clear the shelters? Check out these helpful tips first!

If you’re thinking about adopting a cat, consider taking home two.

Cats require exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction. Two cats can provide this for each other. Plus they’ll provide more benefits to you. Cats’ purring has been shown to soothe humans as well as themselves – and they have an uncanny ability to make us smile. A great place to start your search is online. Sites like petfinder.com let you search numerous shelters in your area simultaneously to help narrow your search and more quickly find the match that’s right for you and your new feline friend (or friends!).

Find a cat whose personality meshes with yours.

Just as we each have our own personality, so do cats. In general, cats with long hair and round heads and bodies are more easygoing than lean cats with narrow heads and short hair, who are typically more active. Because they work with the felines day in and day out, speak with an adoption counselor, who can best offer advice to help you match the cat’s personality with your own.

Schedule a vet visit within the first few days following the adoption.

You’ll want to take any medical records you received from the adoption center on your first visit. Kittens, in particular, should be socialized in the clinic prior to the exam to familiarize their vet with experiences outside of exams and have more positive associations.

Make sure everyone in the house is prepared to have a cat before it comes home.

Visiting the shelter or animal control facility should be a family affair. When adopting a new cat with existing pets at home, discuss with the adoption facility how to make a proper introduction.

Budget for the short- and long-term costs of a cat.

Understand any pet is a responsibility and there’s a cost associated with that. A cat adopted from a shelter is a bargain; many facilities will have already provided spaying or neutering, initial vaccines, and a microchip for permanent identification.

Stock up on supplies before the cat arrives.

Be prepared so your new cat can start feeling at home right away. Your cat will need a litter box, cat litter, food and water bowls, food, scratching posts, safe and stimulating toys, a cushy bed, a brush for grooming, a toothbrush, and nail clippers.

Cat-proof your home.

A new cat will quickly teach you not to leave things lying out. Food left on the kitchen counter will serve to teach your new friend to jump on counters for a possible lunch. Get rid of loose items your cat might chew on, watch to ensure the kitten isn’t chewing on electric cords, and pick up random items like paper clips (which kittens may swallow).

Go slowly when introducing your cat to new friends and family.

It can take several weeks for a cat to relax in a new environment. It’s a great idea to keep the new addition secluded to a single room (with a litter box, food and water, toys, and the cat carrier left out and open with bedding inside) until the cat is used to the new surroundings; this is particularly important if you have other pets. If you’ve adopted a kitten, socialization is very important. But remember – take it slow.

Be sure to include your new pet in your family’s emergency plan.

You probably have a plan in place for getting your family to safety in case of an emergency. Adjust this plan to include your pets. Add phone numbers for your veterinarian and closest 24-hour animal hospital to your “in-case-of-emergency” call list.

If you’re considering giving a cat as a gift, make sure the recipient is an active participant in the adoption process.

Though well-meaning, the surprise kitty gift doesn’t allow for a “get-to know-one-another” period. Remember, adopting a cat isn’t like purchasing a household appliance or a piece of jewelry – this is a real living, breathing, and emotional being.

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered to your inbox (here). Or, you can keep up to date by liking and following our Facebook page (here).

Related: We have more information under our cat health category.

Just Puppy Things: Tips to take the bite out of teething

5 Ways to Help with Puppy Teething

Next to potty training, the puppy teething phase is one of the most challenging periods of puppyhood. A puppy’s drive to nibble, chew, and bite can lead to a household full of destruction and bruised body parts. The puppy teething phase is a normal developmental period that occurs as a puppy’s adult teeth begin to replace the needle-sharp deciduous teeth. Depending on your dog’s breed and size, this can start to happen at about four or five months of age. Keep in mind that puppy biting isn’t caused by teething alone! Puppies also communicate and explore the world with their mouths, and it’s up to you to help your new puppy select what is and is not okay to chew.

1. Puppy Proof Your Home

You should puppy proof your home in anticipation of your puppy’s increased need to chew. Pick up anything on the ground that could be a teething target. That includes obvious items like shoes, socks, and low garbage bins, as well as things that might not be as obvious at first glance, like rugs with fringe on the end, decorative baskets, magazine racks, and semi-hidden cords. The desperate-to-chew puppy might zero in table legs, chair/sofa legs, and cabinetry, so consider treating them with a bitter chew deterrent spray. If your puppy picks up an item that they aren't supposed to have, offer them a trade with one of their special toys or a treat.

2. Teach Your Puppy ‘Gentle Mouth’

Puppies quickly learn that they get a reaction when they bite, whether it’s from their littermates or from their human caregivers. It hurts! Teaching your new puppy the importance of a gentle mouth is an important lesson. When your puppy clamps down on your hand too hard, mark the painful infraction by saying “Ouch!” and pull your hand away. Withdraw your attention for a few moments, and then resume contact with your dog. If your puppy bites down too hard again, mark the bite by saying “ouch” again, but this time get up and walk away from your dog, leaving them alone. This is social isolation, a potent but gentle punishment. If your timing is good, your puppy will soon learn that biting too hard makes their favorite person leave.

3. Provide Appropriate Chewing Outlets

Puppies need to have a variety of appropriate chewing outlets. Although plush dog toys are cute, they don’t last long enough to provide the teething puppy the type of resistance their sore gums require. Hard rubber dog toys are ideal, particularly the kind that have spots for treat stuffing. Some toys have small holes that require the puppy to move the toy around to get the goodies out, while others have larger holes that encourage the puppy to hold on to the toy and gnaw and lick to get the treats.

4. Try Frozen Goodies

Frozen goodies can also help a teething puppy. You can fill your puppy’s hard rubber toys with peanut butter and freeze them, or invest in a teething toy that can be wet like a sponge and frozen. A low-cost alternative is to wet and freeze a washcloth, but make sure to take it away once it’s thawed so your dog doesn’t rip it apart. Finally, try giving your teething puppy a frozen carrot for a healthy way to relieve some of the pain.

5. Buy Quality Dog Food

Make sure to feed your puppy a balanced diet that supports controlled growth and dental health. Quality dog foods that contain a whole named protein, like chicken, and have a mix of vitamins and minerals, including calcium for strong bones and teeth, will help your puppy’s smile look good for a lifetime. Ask your veterinarian about what is best for your dog!

Remain Patient

Puppy teething is a rite of passage that all puppy parents must endure, but with the right equipment and attitude, it can be a lot less painful!

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered to your inbox (here). Or, you can keep up to date by liking and following our Facebook page (here).

Related: We have more information under our dog health category.

Doggy outings in an age of social distancing

Life and everyday routines have been turned upside-down due to coronavirus restrictions—even for our dogs. It's likely you and your pup are missing your old life together: road trips, volunteer visits, activities with friends, puppy playdates, or puppy day camp. But slow, scent-filled strolls in local parks can become a welcome stand-in. Under stay-at-home orders, walking our dogs are, for many, a refreshing distraction. When it comes to a change of scenery, it’s an indulgence for those on either end of the leash.

Here are 10 tips for keeping your dog & you safe and healthy during the pandemic and beyond. (It goes without saying: Always pick up after your pup. If you can’t safely toss it in a public trash can, discard it at home.)

Stay close to home. Avoid unnecessary travel by finding a park or trail near your home. Check park websites and social media for updates, and respect closures: gates, cones, barricades, or signs. Although on some days you may need to take a short drive to the park with your dog, keep in mind that parking may be prohibited in some areas.

Adjust your routine. Some of your pet's favorite spots could be closed or completely blocked to cars. Popular spots could be open but often too congested for social distancing. If a park looks too crowded, or there’s no legal parking, plan to visit another time.

Treat your dog like a family member. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “There is no evidence that animals play a significant role in spreading the virus that causes covid-19.” While a small number of pets have been reported to be infected with the virus, mostly after contact with people, the risk of animals spreading covid-19 to people is considered low. Until more is known about the virus, however, the CDC recommends treating pets as you would any other family member: Don’t let them interact with people or animals outside the household or family members who are sick.

Keep your distance. On paths and trails, stay at least six feet from other people AND dogs. When walkers or runners approach, step off the path and allow them to pass. Even better, find a field where you and your dog won’t have to pass anyone. We discourage on-leash meetings — now or ever. It’s an unnatural way for dogs to greet each other, and the tension on the leash can contribute to bad manners. If a stranger asks about saying hello to your dog, this is an easy time to practice saying, “Not right now, thanks for asking,” without the stigma of being unfriendly. Not all dogs love other people or other dogs. Know your dog and what's comfortable for them. Even after we go back to not social distancing, we should be in the mind-set of giving dog space if they want it.

Read your dog. Pay attention to cues to know how your dog is feeling, especially when encountering another dog. Yawning, lip-licking, paw-raising, and tail-tucking can all be signs of anxiety. People tend to assume that a wagging tail means a happy pup, but it simply means arousal. A fast, upright wag means a canine concern. The friendly tail wag is lower, sometimes a full-body wag starting at the shoulder. Check out iSpeakDog for more guides to reading your pet’s body language.

Leash up. It’s always important to follow leash laws — for the protection of your dog, other dogs, and humans — but it’s particularly important now. The use of retractable leashes is controversial. Alexandra Dilley, director of behavior and training at the Humane Rescue Alliance (HRA), advises against the leashes because many people mishandle them. It takes coordination and practice to shorten the leash if you need to quickly control your dog. Dilley warns that retractable leashes can get entangled with other dog leashes, and if you grab the leash as a dog’s running it out, you may cut or burn your hand. When trainers do recommend retractable leashes, it’s only for remote areas or fields, where 20-foot traditional leashes are handy, too.

Train while you walk. Take this quieter time to work with your dog on behavior. If your dog gets triggered (by a person, dog, skateboard, loud truck, etc.), shorten the leash, try to put yourself between the dog and the trigger, and pass as quickly as possible. Do not make the dog sit and force them to remain in an uncomfortable situation. If you have to pick up the pace while distracting the dog with treats, I think that’s the better option.

Don’t leave home without treats. In an environment with lots of distractions, it’s important to keep your dog’s attention. The best way to do that is with treats. For example, when you step aside on a trail or pathway to let a dog pass, reward your dog for sitting and waiting. Treats, especially low-calorie and low-mess treats, are also a great way to reinforce good behavior. To engage dogs who aren’t as food-driven, bust out those higher-value treats.

Go for a short sniff. You may be counting your steps, but your dog doesn’t need to follow suit. Sniffing and other mentally enriching exercises (such as finding hidden treats around the house or working to get their kibble out of a toy) are at least as important as physical exercise. Replace that four-mile walk with a leisurely, one-mile sniff. Introducing your dog to new places — where different critters live and varied smells await — is like picking up a new book. Eighty percent of the walks should be sniffing. You’ll be surprised how tired that makes them! If it’s a bad weather day, maybe consider buying or making your own Snuffle Mat.

Leave your dog home daily. Dogs aren’t much for planning, but their human companions can do something now to prevent separation anxiety in the future. We recommend leaving your dog home alone several times a day. Go out and have your own experience to remind them we do have lives away from them, and we’ll be going back to work and school. If you normally take your dog for two or three walks a day, don’t start doing it more often, just because you have more time. Rather, get in your own power walk. Also important: Keep your routine. If your dog typically walks and eats before sunrise stick to the schedule so the post-pandemic change won’t be traumatic.

HRA recently offered a webinar with tips on how to teach your dog to “live well when alone.”

COVID-19: The Time is Now to Teach Your Dog to Live Well When Alone. Join the Humane Rescue Alliance and Tracy Krulik for information on how to prevent and t...

---

COVID-19 Response: River Landings Animal Clinic

---

Hear From Us Again

Don't forget to subscribe to our email newsletter for more recipes, articles, and clinic updates delivered to your inbox (here). Or, you can keep up to date by liking and following our Facebook page (here).

Related: We have more information under our cat health + dog health + client care categories.